Hi guys, I've got a new Fanatec BMW GT2 wheel and would like to know your setups with the force feedback and and other settings like Force, Shock and so on. I got the wheel, base and V3 pedals altogether so it's abit of a learning curve and would like to get it all working like it's meant to. SS
Skids here are my settings that I use in rf2 SEN=540 DEPENDS ON THE CAR FF=80 sho=0 Abs=75 only of you have fanatec pedals attched to base Lin=off dea=off dri=001 For=120 Spr=0 dpr=0
Thanks fieldsy for your setup. I did have the pedals directly plugged into a USB port as well as the base. But I'm not getting any pedal vibration at all, so I thought I'd try fanaleds software but no success there. Now I've unplugged the USB from the pedals in the hope that it would be the magic fix but no. I'll have to do more research to get the pedals working properly. edit Ok I've fanaleds working but it will vibrate wheel lockups with the steer wheel but not the pedals... more research edit Pedals fixed :B SS
SEN= OFF : it makes use of the ingame setting FF=100 sho=90 Abs=90 Lin=off dea=off dri=0 or off For=100 Spr=0 dpr=0
Thx Gysbers, I'll try it tomorrow, but just looking at it both you and Fieldzy have spring and damper at 0. Do those take away from the feedback? SS
Center spring adds a force to your wheel to always center the wheel: you can use it for games that doesn't have FFB. dampning: Smooths the forces and gives weight to the wheel. Whit that you'll get some kind of delay. But i recommend to use the ingame smoothing. See page 26: https://www.fanatec.com/download/CSW-V2_Manual.pdf
If you do feel the need for a little spring & damper (I'm weird that way), this is my suggestion: For=50 Spr=10 dpr=10 With this setting, you'll also typically need to change the in-game car specific FFB to 0.5 to avoid clipping. Edit: Why only For=50? Because Spr & Dpr take away from the overall strength of the motor and destroy linearity.
Turning on ABS on the wheel, then set the percentage you want it to vibrate at, mines on 95% edit it's on page 27 of the PDF manual that Gysbers sent https://www.fanatec.com/download/CSW-V2_Manual.pdf Thanks Gysbers for the link SS
Okay, here's where my story gets really weird. For some reason I can't open the game controller. I've tried reinstalling, but it just fails. So I have no idea what to tell you. It's the sort of stupid thing I should fix, but I'm happy with my setting for rF2. Over in AMS, I switch to the S_2 profile on the wheel and have that configured like Gysbers'. That's one of the nice things about CSW, you can have different profiles saved and switch between them.
There is an article about why to have no damper just haven't found it yet. It does reduce the feel. All I know and when I have had it on the wheel feels LIKE A SOFT HAND SHAKE. You know what I mean.
good too assign the above settings from each contributor then scroll through them as your lapping, I did it today and reverted each time to default set as S1 . best feel for me using an increased car specific ffb and default wheel settings and and a smoothing of max 2 on some mods. edit as Emery noted
Here's what I ended up with to drive the FVR V8s Game Controller setting 450 rotation 100% dampening edit: I've turned dampening down to 0% for a better feel On the wheel Sen = OFF FF = 90 Sho = 100 Abs = OFF Lin = OFF DeA = OFF DrI = OFF For = 50 SPr = 00 DPr = 00 Thanks for the input guys SS
Always put the control panel setting to maximum rotation, not 450. rF2 auto adjusts each car to the correct lock. Since some of them have a range above 450 and so does your wheel, why would you want to cut it off at 450 degrees?
My 2cents: Wheel settings * I am running DRI 3. I've read somewhere that at 3 motor doesn't add/remove (is neutral) artificial weight from the wheel. I feel like this is up to the game. * ABS - I have pedals connected via USB, and per my understanding this setting matters only if pedals are connected to the base. * DPR - I am running 0 as most people, but this is setting is quite confusing. In my tests, aside from usual resistance to turning, it affects stationary friction (when car is not moving), so with running at 0 I feel like I am missing something * SEN - I am setting lock to lock degrees manually, I had problems with relying on game to do so (per-car value won't apply. In game settings * mutliplier - I adjust to my preference. * minimal force value - for each new mod/series it is different. To find it I basically increase min force till wheel starts to shake while car is not moving. * smoothing - I try to keep as close to 0 as possible, but if mod models flat spots, keeping it at 0 is bad idea. Bumping smoothing makes shaking tolerable. * Save separate controller profile for each series. I am also using Fanaleds for vibration in pedals/wheel on wheel lock. You can also use Fanaleds to see various info switched at a button click (if you can see your wheel).
IMO: Don't cancel "artificial weight from the wheel." A reel race car has a steeringwheel too. Just some info fom the manual: DRI range: (OFF 000 ... 005) - DRI default: OFF The drift mode reduces the overall resistance of the wheel and let you turn the wheel more easily. It almost works like a power steering. It reduces the basic dampening of the wheel and makes the wheel turn faster. If the values is set too high (or if the games FFB interferes with this feature) you might experience some oscillation. If that happens - reduce the value or turn DRI “OFF” again. To change the used and active value press up or down direction at the Funky- SwitchTM of the Fanatec Steering Wheel or turn the FunkySwitchTM clockwise / counter clockwise. But in the end it all comes down to personal preferences.
I looked at the above comments and I generally agree but, here is what I am doing with the Formula Black... SEn (Sensitivity) 260 (adjusts wheel rotation - will work with most of the modern cars & I use it for the old cars as well. (I am told that the Indy cars rotation is similar (friend serves in pit crew @ Indy) FF (Force Feedback) 40 - 90 (this is a matter of personal taste and 100 may work for some but I find 40 - 70 is generally ok depending on the car (greater for short races < 30 minutes) and less for longer races... SHo (Shock) 60 AbS (braking info) OFF LIN (Linearity) OFF DEA (Deadzone) OFF DRI (Drift mode) OFF For (Force) 100 SPr 100 brF 60 These are all my personal preferences. I hope this gives you another perspective... I have adjusted some of these while on track, just to get a sense of what works for me. I hope you will enjoy this device as much as I do. Have Fun
