Hi Before I start, please be aware that I know about the "reset force feedback" button assignment and have tried it.... I use a g27 wheel with no problems in any game. In rfactor 2 during online practise with lots of cars present , I sometimes get a gradual drop in ffb and the ffb reset button tends to help. However in multiplayer endurance races Sometimes the ffb has gone completely as little as 10 minutes into a stint and the reset ffb doesn't resolve the issue here. This is destroying my rfactor 2 experience as endurance racing is my passion. I must add that I have no such problems in other games such as I rental or ac . My computer is i7 with 1060ti gtx and 8gb ram. Settings medium to high but frames are all good . G27 wheel settings are set so that the game cannot modify the wheel in game ..although I gave tried the other option and still no success. I've also tried whacking up the ffb power initially. But that just exaggerates the loss of ffb and feel when it goes. Pleaee try to help. I've heard of other people having this problem. Ps I've also done a fresh install of the game and controller settings and the g27 itself. No good. Thanks in anticipation.
Hi there,i have a G27 too,and so far no problems ,now whit a DFGT that i have in the work is always loosing the center and FFB,i have to delete the controller.json file in order to run good.
Thank you but I have reinstalled controller file previously and no joy Is it likely someone from 397 will reply? This is a game issue ...not a hardware issue.
:\Steam\steamapps\common\rFactor 2\UserData\Controller\<your controller profile.JSON> "Use thread":true, "Use thread#":"Use a separate thread to issue FFB commands which may block with some drivers" Start game and Load your profile
Hi can you explain this and also give some context please e.g what is the rationale and does it work 100 per cent ? Thank you for taking the time to post
What sort of FFB Mult (in the game, Controls section) do you use generally? And what are your profiler settings for strength etc? *Also, are you using the default game behaviour that detects (and possibly adjusts) your wheel rotation, or have you changed the settings to use software rotation lock? (not sure it matters, just aiming for info)
Hi Lazza Thank you for your response. The FFB multipl is about 2 . ffb smoothing is about 9... ffb min torque is 0.0 . sometimes i've had this as high as 2 although I'm not sure what it does? controller profile for g27 is https://www.dropbox.com/s/g5iywns339qozo8/Capture.PNG?dl=0
2? As in 2.0? That's very high. I don't know that it would cause your issue (I think the G- series of wheels from logitech is made pretty bulletproof, because of the target market, so I doubt overheating is an issue) but a mult that high will lead to a flat FFB response a lot of the time - which means no detail, no feel. Just a centering force. Note that loss of detail ('clipping') is what comes out of the game - no wheel settings can rescue that lost detail. Everything else looks ok (most will have varying preferences, but nothing looks broken).
In a recent race I lost ffb and then the wheel disconnected briefly. I had my wheel plugged in a usb 3.0 in front of computer. I am now going to try usb 2.0 in the back of computer. Could this be a plausible reason for problems ?
What kind of wheel? Fanatec users have been experiencing some disconnects after a large number of pitstops. There is a FFB reset button you can assign. I press it everytime I leave the pits, just to reset the ffb. I like to make things habitual, even if not always needed. Just in case. FWIW, Simon Paginaud lost his ffb wheel during the virtual 24, he had an completely setup 2nd chair/chassis with another wheel already connected. He was parked on the side of the track, unplugged is non-responsive wheel and then moved the 2nd chair/wheel combo over in front of his screen and plugged that in. Everything worked and he was back in business.