first need to bridge the R7. 0 ohms. to get 4.5Volts. this photo is exactly the same as my momo 2005 in 2008 the R7 is in a different position but near that. The sensor I'm using is the A1302EUA that you guys can buy here. http://pt.aliexpress.com/item/Free-...-T-Ratiometric-Hall-Effect-Sensors/2044168370 Momo 2005 Momo 2008 don't forget the cut here My project and to be easy to disassemble if you need to do some maintenance lubricating the axle pedals or clearances for example.
My first attempt was with Analog potentiometers. the same as this in my video. 10ka or 10kb. the potentiometers to 10kA are equal to the original, they gauge the DXtweak2, but need to do manually as I'm doing now and just 10Kb manually. Original 10kA typically calibrate with 4.5 volts. My second attempt was that this link http://mac56simparts.blogspot.com.br/2008/10/upgrade-pedales-momo.html DXtweak2 Here http://www.mediafire.com/download/kkdt0zprsawbczr/DXTweak2.rar using creativity I did the same but using the A1302 and not the SS495. The problem is always the same, dead zone at the beginning and end of the pedal stroke and has no way to calibrate manually. is already ordered the SS495,60 days to arrive from China.
Finishing my second Momo. My videos were made in the night at 640x480, but you can have a good idea of adptação. New magnets and how they work the mechanism in potentiometers. The next time will show DXtewak and calibrating the pedals.
To calibrate the accelerator, a video in 3 parts displayed on DXTeak. 1 Normal calibration. the steering wheel turned before. stepping on a pedal and then the other. 2 Eliminated the dead zone at the beginning of the pedal. 3 Calibrated. 1% error in the dead zone at the end of the course, but if you want can be set to the beginning. sometimes with 0% error. 4 Do this on a pedal at a time, if you miss the calibration of the first or second pedal you have to start all over again, disconnect USB cable and connect again. Always slowly turning the moving part of the potentiometer, then tighten or loosen the nut slowly. After a workout time gets easier. Accelerator 1 Connect USB cable and calibrate usually "spinning wheel from one side to the other. Pressing a pedal and then the other" and this done. 2 Remove the dead zone in the accelerator pedal stroke start turning the mobile part of the potentiometer counter-clockwise until you find the beginning of the pedal stroke and tighten the nut. Press the pedal again to the end and you will see that at the beginning of elimination the dead zone. 3 This and the hardest part. You must then turn the mobile part of the throttle potentiometer clockwise or 1 or 2 mm and back counter-clockwise to set a new point of beginning, and then eliminate the dead zone at the end of the course. Sometimes I hit first. but most of the time in the second or third vez.Com sure this is the most boring part of the calibration. Always rotating clockwise and coming back a little. to pass the point, you should start all over again. Go straight to the curb now or start with the brake if you want. Brake 2 Remove the dead zone at the beginning of brake pedal travel by turning the mobile part of the potentiometer clockwise until finding the beginning of the pedal stroke and tighten the nut. Press the pedal again to the end and you will see that at the beginning no longer the dead zone. 3 This and the hardest part. You must then turn the mobile part of the potentiometer Brake towards Counterclockwise 1 or 2 mm and back clockwise to set the new start point, and then eliminate the dead zone at the end of the course. . Surely this and the most annoying part of the calibration. Always turning in anti-clockwise direction back and forth a little, over point, you should start all again. In short: The photo shows that to eliminate the dead zone at the beginning of the pedal, the mobile part in the two pedals. You will always move toward the top of the photo, then returns 1 or 2 mm and back to find a new point of beginning. If anyone has any good idea, I would like to know. I accept suggestions. It's that or put in the trash. I still try to do something with the SS495.
Good news for users of MOMO. With SS495 sensor calibration is almost perfect. Can be used in the same potentiometers I used, only you need to change the A1302EUA for SS495 or do as the picture, which also works, but is more difficult to calibrate. I prefer the potentiometers I can adjust manually. I realized now that dead zones are around 2% at the beginning and end of pedal travel before was about 20%. Manual calibration now more quickly to do, just leave 4% at the beginning that you guys will see it's almost nothing. Before I was taking 2 to 3 minutes to manually calibrate and now less than 1 minute. http://pt.aliexpress.com/item/FREE-...95-SS495A-Proximity-Detector/32252781598.html
The brake pedal broke amazing! Momo bought in 2005 at the time of Race Driver and GTR. meanwhile i'm using the one bought in 2008. I solved with a piece of aluminum. Easy to solve. The wear on the axles I will do with epoxy. I'll post more photos
