Logitech G Pro Direct Drive

Thank you xeroborn I am quite willing to buy it after 10 years with my trusty G27. I wanted to know if it is well supported by rf2 because in the controller list i did not see it.
I know it has a force of 11NM, how much do you set this force on the rf2 settings, 50%?
 
I'm looking for it too, probably I'll be the next to buy one, my G27 has 10 years too. I did all kinds of maintenance and modding on it.
 
xeroborn said:
Started with these settings:
https://support.logi.com/hc/en-gb/articles/8358055253271-In-Game-Settings-for-Pro-Wheels

I’ve tested it a bunch of different ways. I do think smoothing on 2 or 3 feels better than 0. Car specific multiplier around 40-50, depending on the car.

No issues with the wheel and rF 2. Easy to setup and works great.
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Hello.I bought the wheel for Xmas and yes its a great piece of hardware, I am also using the base recommended settings except the wheel angle at 540 (but set by Car in Game settings) and little bit less Damping in Logitech drivers (30 instead of 35).
Trueforce dont seem implemented in RF2 though, and did you manage to find a workaround for the rpm dash lights to work in this Sim?

Thanks
 
It arrived today for me, first impressions on FFB (using recommended settings):

I'm testing it with the Porsche 911 GT3R on Portimão, using 55% strength in game for this car.

I'm having difficulty to feel the details in high speed corners, I feel only the weight, as a consequence I can't catch slides as I do in my G27. Other than that feels natural, no other difficulties.

So I reduced the Dampener to 24 and Strength to 8 NM, no improvements.

I'll keep you guys updated.

@nolive721 the shift lights aren't working for me too, for me it doesn't matter, I know that Logitech responds on reddit, maybe you want to send a message there to see if they have a solution.
 
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ebeninca said:
It arrived today for me, first impressions on FFB (using recommended settings):

I'm testing it with the Porsche 911 GT3R on Portimão, using 55% strength in game for this car.

I'm having difficulty to feel the details in high speed corners, I feel only the weight, as a consequence I can't catch slides as I do in my G27. Other than that feels natural, no other difficulties.

So I reduced the Dampener to 24 and Strength to 8 NM, no improvements.

I'll keep you guys updated.

@nolive721 the shift lights aren't working for me too, for me it doesn't matter, I know that Logitech responds on reddit, maybe you want to send a message there to see if they have a solution.
Click to expand...

Backing the wheel off is a good testing measure, in case it can't properly sustain full force, and then I'd be trying smoothing and damping on basically 0, especially if you have some smoothing in rF2.

If you can't get mid-corner detail with extreme settings then you'll want to try and find out why. If you have the details but it's a bit too rough you can add some more of each setting and try to find what works.
 
Lazza said:
Backing the wheel off is a good testing measure, in case it can't properly sustain full force, and then I'd be trying smoothing and damping on basically 0, especially if you have some smoothing in rF2.

If you can't get mid-corner detail with extreme settings then you'll want to try and find out why. If you have the details but it's a bit too rough you can add some more of each setting and try to find what works.
Click to expand...

Thx Lazza, you're right...

I remembered that the G27 profiler had something related with dampener that we always set to zero, is one of those things that you set one time and forget, I just forgot to look at it to remember the values before removing my old wheel...

I really don't understand why Logitech recommendations have so high Damper and FFB filter, it basically kills all the details that a stronger wheel gives to you. I imagine how much people will not enjoy everything the wheel gives because of it.

So, what I did is set Dampener at zero, immediately I beat my record from G27 in 1 tenth, lol, but the wheel started to do strange movements when the car was stop, so I changed to 1, problem solved.

The other parameter, called FFB Filter which was setted in 10, I setted it to zero and I felt even more road details, but no time improvement, kept at 3 for now.

I'm using a strength of 6 NM at the moment, I'm not a strong guy, I noticed that using 8 NM I can't fell the details adequately, I end up using all my energy to keep the car on track, too strong for me.

Configuration at the moment:

Logitech G HUB:
Angle: 1080
Dampener: 1
Strength: 6
FFB Filter: 3
TrueForce Audio: 0

rFactor2:
Smoothing: 3
Car Specific: 58% (Portimão / Porsche 911 GT3R - No clipping looking at MOTEC data)
Minimal force: 0%
Force Feedback Strength: +100%
Rotation limit mode: Software
Max wheel angle mode: Custom (Auto not working)
Default max angle: 1080
Range set by vehicle: on

More testing tomorrow.

upload_2023-2-6_23-52-5.png
 
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@ebeninca if you don't have unpleasantly-strong jolts, put your wheel up near full strength and further reduce the vehicle-specific mult, or the FFB Strength (doesn't have to be at 100%) to reduce clipping more easily and get back to a comfortable cornering force. Then you won't have to worry about checking it so much, because you'll have more room.
 
ebeninca said:
It arrived today for me, first impressions on FFB (using recommended settings):

I'm testing it with the Porsche 911 GT3R on Portimão, using 55% strength in game for this car.

I'm having difficulty to feel the details in high speed corners, I feel only the weight, as a consequence I can't catch slides as I do in my G27. Other than that feels natural, no other difficulties.

So I reduced the Dampener to 24 and Strength to 8 NM, no improvements.

I'll keep you guys updated.

@nolive721 the shift lights aren't working for me too, for me it doesn't matter, I know that Logitech responds on reddit, maybe you want to send a message there to see if they have a solution.
Click to expand...
thank you.
I had managed to tune the FFB parameters of the wheel to suit my taste but yes the rpm lights could not work, still after a month of ownership and contacting the Logitech support twice.
I could have lived with that but the Rim itself was really a big let down, I knew from reviews, and there was no visibility from Logitech about what and when they would bring alternatives.
so I decided to use the 30day return window and got a MOZA R9 with CS wheel instead. It feels amazing in RF2 with minimum tuning and the Premium feel is higher than the Logitech despite the fact paid the same price for it
 
Lazza said:
@ebeninca if you don't have unpleasantly-strong jolts, put your wheel up near full strength and further reduce the vehicle-specific mult, or the FFB Strength (doesn't have to be at 100%) to reduce clipping more easily and get back to a comfortable cornering force. Then you won't have to worry about checking it so much, because you'll have more room.
Click to expand...

Humm, I got your logic, makes sense, I never thought about this possibility before because G27 doesn't give enough room to do it.

I need to test this logic to feel the results, but at the moment in my mind makes more sense to work the specific multiplier to extract the maximum possible without clipping independently of how much NM I'm using in my wheel.
 
Always run your wheel at full strength especially since its only 11nm and just reduce ingame to whatever is comfortable. Don't listen to anyone that tells you otherwise. All you are doing by reducing your wheels strength is making it more likely to encounter clipping.
 
Supa said:
Always run your wheel at full strength especially since its only 11nm and just reduce ingame to whatever is comfortable. Don't listen to anyone that tells you otherwise. All you are doing by reducing your wheels strength is making it more likely to encounter clipping.
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Not that simple my friend, unfortunately rF2 doesn't have ffb clipping information on screen, but you can see this info by looking to the motec channel FFB output (like I posted before), or use tinypedal to see in real time.

I did the test already multiple times, your wheel configuration doesn't change this graphic, no matter 1NM or 11NM.

The ffb outputed data from rf2 to your wheel is affected exclusively by the in game configuration, being "car specific ffb" the most important parameter to define clipping.

In real life almost every race car have power steering, so the driver can define how much NM he wants to feel. I did a search about GT3s and discovered that the most common range is from 8NM to 12NM.


Changing the topic, I'm going to do a resume later here of my first 60 min race.
 
@ebeninca I think you misunderstood Supa, but I know this is all confusing when talked about anyway.

One important note I'll repeat: both Vehicle-specific and FFB Strength (in rF2) can be used to reduce clipping in the game's output.

Generally put the wheel itself on full strength, use those 2 in-game settings to reduce clipping (and/or tune cornering forces to a comfortable level, like ~5Nm), and have fun!
 
Lazza said:
@ebeninca I think you misunderstood Supa, but I know this is all confusing when talked about anyway.

One important note I'll repeat: both Vehicle-specific and FFB Strength (in rF2) can be used to reduce clipping in the game's output.

Generally put the wheel itself on full strength, use those 2 in-game settings to reduce clipping (and/or tune cornering forces to a comfortable level, like ~5Nm), and have fun!
Click to expand...

Ok, I'm using 6.5 NM on wheel, car specific 55% and ffb strength in game 100%.

Let's say, I set 11 NM on wheel and reduce in game ffb strength to +/-50%, to produce the same NM output, Do you think it is better? or the result will be the same.
 
ebeninca said:
Ok, I'm using 6.5 NM on wheel, car specific 55% and ffb strength in game 100%.

Let's say, I set 11 NM on wheel and reduce in game ffb strength to +/-50%, to produce the same NM output, Do you think it is better? or the result will be the same.
Click to expand...

To be equivalent, let's say you have these options:
  1. Wheel 6.5Nm. Car 55%. FFB Strength 100%
  2. Wheel 11Nm. Car 55%. FFB Strength 59%
These will give you the same feeling, up to 6.5Nm. The second option will allow you to feel forces between 6.5 and 11Nm as well. How useful is that? Depends on the car you're driving really. Sometimes it can even be a bad thing if there are extreme reactions to kerbs or bumps.

There are really many options on how you set it up, and it comes down to how you want it to behave. You should also check the Steering Torque Capability setting in your rF2 wheel profile (or controller.json) as that can scale the forces (down) if it's set higher than your wheel's current strength. On cars that produce up to 11Nm you have the option to replicate those forces on your wheel, but it's your choice on whether that's good or not. As usual in rF2 there is a lot to consider, it's not plug and play.

For ease of use remember that car-specific and FFB strength are multiplied together, before any clipping occurs. So if you routinely set cars to 55%, just set the FFB strength to 55% instead, and the default car-specific of 100% will put you in the same starting point (without needing to actually adjust it per car, to that point).
 
Lazza said:
To be equivalent, let's say you have these options:
  1. Wheel 6.5Nm. Car 55%. FFB Strength 100%
  2. Wheel 11Nm. Car 55%. FFB Strength 59%
These will give you the same feeling, up to 6.5Nm. The second option will allow you to feel forces between 6.5 and 11Nm as well. How useful is that? Depends on the car you're driving really. Sometimes it can even be a bad thing if there are extreme reactions to kerbs or bumps.

There are really many options on how you set it up, and it comes down to how you want it to behave. You should also check the Steering Torque Capability setting in your rF2 wheel profile (or controller.json) as that can scale the forces (down) if it's set higher than your wheel's current strength. On cars that produce up to 11Nm you have the option to replicate those forces on your wheel, but it's your choice on whether that's good or not. As usual in rF2 there is a lot to consider, it's not plug and play.

For ease of use remember that car-specific and FFB strength are multiplied together, before any clipping occurs. So if you routinely set cars to 55%, just set the FFB strength to 55% instead, and the default car-specific of 100% will put you in the same starting point (without needing to actually adjust it per car, to that point).
Click to expand...

It's a little mind blowing knowledge for me, I'm not at home now, as soon as I get there I'll test all this possibilities.
 
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