Karts 0.991 and Quebec SuperKarts 1.07 track available

Discussion in 'News & Notifications' started by 88mphTim, Mar 29, 2014.

  1. Jos

    Jos Registered

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    i cant seem to drive these without the backend always stepping out :(

    what am I doing wrong...
     
  2. Denstjiro

    Denstjiro Registered

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    Learn2drive :p

    Maybe the steering angle? or gears too short if you changed those.
    But its normal I think, I had the same the first few days and now after more praccy and knowing what you can and can't do the issue is gone unless I overdrive.
    try to drive lines with which you can go earlier on the throttle which means you need to pick a line that is more straight when accelerating, the Karts really react to this allot more then one would think and it makes you faster as well because the lines become more ideal.
     
  3. YoLolo69

    YoLolo69 Registered

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    I can understand you pretty well. Saying that, I'm french too so perhaps I'm the only one ;) (I'm joking).

    Ok, thanks, now I understand the squiring sound even at very low speed in pit, I first though it was something ISI needed to tune ;)


    What Denstjiro said, same advice for braking: try to be aligned and not in a curve so brake in advance in straight line, and you can also try to lower brake and throttle sensitivity in controls settings. Mines are set around 25% and that helped me a lot to handle powerful RWD car including karts.
     
  4. Adrianstealth

    Adrianstealth Registered

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    it's taken me some tinkering & a tad more practice to start to get fairly quick with these,
    it's really worth having a private ( single player ) session and fiddle with the setup until it's setup to the way you drive
    then they start yo feel even better
     
  5. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    Brake earlier than you expect to (at least for now, so absolutely no trail braking). Turn in the wheel to take the corner and once the kart has turned in, the weight is beginning to shift to the outside of the kart. The inside rear tyre will be raised off the ground just enough so that the outside rear tyre has the most grip and traction. At this point, start to add throttle which will cause the outside tyre to accelerate faster than the inside tyre which will cause the kart to turn even more. This is the transition point where you start straightening the steering wheel (as much as possible but it's not always possible to be completely straight) and use the throttle to maintain the karts turn rate as well as accelerating or maintaining the karts speed throughout the corner. Karts very sensitivity to weight transfer and throttle application. When the weight is transfered to the outside in the corner, you must be sensitive with your throttle application, more so that most cars because karts have a solid rear axle which means a locked differential which is more unstable under power.
     
  6. Jos

    Jos Registered

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    i just hate the low speed physics in this game, and low speed happens a lot with karts... :/
     
  7. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    Well...it's all relative. For me, i have just enough strength in almost all the force ranges in the karts with a t500. g25/27 users (although i don't know what you are using) will have pretty poor feeling for them because the ffb sensations in karts when in the corners becomes very small due to how karts work and so i can imagine how loose the ffb feels for those wheel users. It sucks but it is what it is. The only advice i would give (apart from "get a better wheel") is to fine-tune the "car specific ffb multiplier" maybe towards around "1.2"-"1.3" and use some "steering torque minimum" to remove the initial ffb deadzone to ensure you will feel the lightest forces during the cornering phase.

    Find more info here: http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.p...s-in-rFactor-2-The-key-to-being-in-the-Zone-D
     
  8. Jos

    Jos Registered

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    thanks, currently just using default ffb on t500.
     
  9. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    Oh....in that case, keep the default "1.0", ffb smoothing "0" and use the "steering torque minimum" value of "0.02850" and give that a whirl on the karts.

    Also (and importantly!) use 70% "Overall Strength of all forces" in the t500 control panel and the rest of the settings like so:

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Jos

    Jos Registered

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    whats wrong with 60 :p
     
  11. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    8~9% higher max ffb force with 70% vs 60% and slightly less ffb deadzone (but not an issue with the correct stm value used for each). With ffb multiplier "1.0" it feels great and just the right amount of ffb clipping for kerbs, etc. I tried 60% with the same ffb multi and stm and it felt lighter but i didn't try increasing the ffb multiplier to be fair so it could feel fine if i had. Perhaps with 1.08-1.1 ffb mutli it would have felt the same/similarly as strong across the ffb range on track.
     
  12. marvelharvey

    marvelharvey Registered

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    Thinking about it a little more, 99% of my karting experience comes from 4 stroke engines. Which, while down on BHP compared to these 2 stoke karts, *might* have more torque and pull away from a standstill a little easier. This may be what's clouding my judgement.
     
  13. Guimengo

    Guimengo Guest

    Sand people walk in single lines to hide their numbers
     
  14. Nick Johnston

    Nick Johnston Registered

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    First off, pretty awesome karts, feels very close to real life when you get the setup correct.

    Secondly, I noticed that I'm in the loading screen picture! The 26 is Phil Giebler (runs his own team, ran in the indy 500 etc) and I'm in the 28 behind him. Its back when I ran Maddox kart, like 2011 I think? Was pretty cool to see!

    My only issue is the low speed exit, its like the steering is too sensitive and you're constantly trying to correct and make adjustments. Other than that it feels great!

    I saw a post up above trying to explain kart physics and they had it all wrong, let me try to explain. Obviously with a solid axle both rear tires will always be spinning at the same speed, always. Now when you have both rear wheels on the ground the kart will only want to go straight, because to make a corner you need the inside tire turning slower than the outside. That is why you either slide, or have enough caster and grip to lift the inside rear wheel to allow the chassis to release and turn. Now when you get on the throttle or brake, it is going to bring the inside rear back down and that is where you can forget about turning as well as you were. Try and get all braking done in a straight line, and no throttle until apex when you're pointed in the right direction.
     
  15. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    Very cool indeed!!! :D

    Thanks for correcting me. Reading it back i made a massive mistake of saying that the outside accelerates faster when i meant in head is that the amount of accelerate force applied onto the ground is higher on the outside rear vs the inside rear because it has more weight applied on it during the corner. It came out all wrong.

    Other than that, was i mistaken about anything else?

    Can you not add throttle before the apex (as long as not excessive) to maintain rotation allowing you to straighten steering as much as possible or am I wrong about this?

    Lastly, any particular way to learn how to setup karts? Particular book? Or just trial and error?

    Cheers!
     
  16. Nick Johnston

    Nick Johnston Registered

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    You can, but you gotta think the kart will do 2 things once both rear wheels are on the ground (as I said earlier, whenever the throttle or brake is applied) it will either slide out, or push straight. A good way to test this is when exiting the garage, try pulling out with the wheel turned, then with it straight.

    Setup is interesting here, haven't quite figured it out 100%. Especially since there is no rear axle stiffness adjustment (major tuning component in karts). We never run a rear bar, and it shows in the sim as it handles much better without one. The more seat stays you install the more rear grip you will have. A seat stay is basically a bar or strut that attaches the seat to the rear bearings. This will transfer more weight directly to the rear axle providing grip. Add caster for more front as well as overall grip (more chassis flex with more caster).

    The philosophy behind a kart is your chassis (frame) is your 'spring'. You make adjustments throughout the kart to maximize its potential. You have front and rear widths (making the kart more like a / \ will increase wheel lift, but sometimes at the expense of front entry grip, while making the kart more like | | will decrease it). Front and rear hub lengths (adjusting stiffness), axle stiffness (huge adjustment), normally ride heights have 3 settings per side, obviously low medium and high. You can remove the third bearing to increase rear chasis flex, seat position (which I assume is the weight distribution), front and rear bar (which they have) as well as material. In the karts I work with we mainly use a nylon bar, rather than a steel which I assume is modeled here. Axle length (usually 1000mm, 1020mm, and 1040mm) to again, adjust flex in the rear axle. Beyond that is chassis tubing type (they have stiffer and softer materal, as well as different diameter tubing, normally 28/30, 30/30, 30/32, or all 32. In the split ones the cross bars (left to right) are the smaller diameter with the larger diameters from front to back). The tough part in karting is figuring out if the feeling you are getting (overstuck, loose, push, etc) is because you are too soft, or too stiff, as the extreme in either direction can produce the same effect.
     
  17. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    kart backends always step out, that's just what they do
     
  18. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    you got issues then, nothing wrong with the kart's low speed physics
     
  19. Paddler

    Paddler Registered

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    +1
     
  20. Tony

    Tony Registered

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    The weight-transference is especially sensitive when jabbing at the brakes - so try reducing the brake pressure in your setup to around the 87-90% & shifting the brake-bias forward a little bit as well .. that helped me to only get lapped once in a race instead of twice :p
     

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