Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Michael Juliano, Jan 11, 2012.
I'm running with 0 filtering again and I'm liking it a lot personally .
After some weeks of huge rattling on my F430 the potentiometer has broken just around the center position. I don't know if it was caused by the strong rattle but I think it's a possibility. Not a huge problem...I can change it.
I use 0 too, but not liking it over rumble strips and some bumps.
FWIW, there's a post on the iracing forum translated by an Italian member from Stefano Casillo (Nkpro) elsewhere, where he says some people want curbs to shake their desks but in real life it's the car and wheel going up and down not the wheel moving sideways that much. And that he put some canned effects in to satisfy them but that iRacing does it right and people complain it's dead.
I haven't read all the posts, I'm having a problem with the G27 coming uncentered when I go off or hit a curb in the tin tops. But it seems fine with the open cockpit cars, but it makes it unplayable at times.
My wheel is pointing one way and the wheel in the car another.
since i can't delete this post as I think I fixed the problem, i'll explain how. noticed in settings that there's a number show in bright digits of the wheel rotation. went out to my logitech profiler and set the wheel at that number. after a couple of races way too fast with many flips at high speed the wheel stayed straight.
Now, is there a secret to get eveyone to pit correct at Spa or is that still under construction?
I gave a few thoughts for this since this didn't occour to me with G27 until i tested E-Kart last night. First it didn't feel good, so i increased the FFB multiplier to 4.00. Just entering the pits made the wheel go crazy, not just rattle but huge turning back and forth. Driving straight actually reduced the rattling and constant turning a bit but still it was too much.
So i decreased the multiplier to 3.00, this actually helped somewhat, but i had to increase the deadzone to 5%. There still was some rattling while entering the pits but when i started driving it got normal. Then i realised what caused that. Karts have strong force for centering the steerning because of the wheel alignmets.
That force is apparently too much for our FFB output system, or to the hardware we own because we probably don't have a standalone FFB Deadzone in the center considering powers that center the wheel?
So imagine the next with strong centering, imaginatively and to clear this out to some people, theres a multiplyer value of 1.3.
A bumb with FFB value 1 makes your wheel turn to left over centerline. Centering forces come to play and multiply it with 1.3. That equals centering force of 1.3. That 1.3 thrusth your wheel over the center line to the right. The value of 1.3 ofcourse gets dampended a bit before the center line so it hits a peak of 1.1 on the right side. Multiply that with 1.3 and you get 1.43. That force throws wheel back to left, some dampening occours again and you get a peak value 1.3 to the left. The dampening increases when wheel starts to turn more and more.
See the pattern here?
Now what if we could have a seperate, user- adjustable damper/deadzone for this centering force, just close to the centerline of the steerning with next adjustable parametres:
-Precentage or degree value for deadzone while standing still
-Minimum Precentage or degree value for deadzone while driving and in witch speed does it occour.
-Linearity Adjustment for deadzone decreasement
I attached a picture to clarify what i'm speaking about since i have a feeling that i'm not as clear about this as possible.
View attachment 1831
Hopefully this helps and is an idea worth testing and possibly even implementing.
Total noob here. I just won a copy of rfactor2 (lifetime license) and got it installed last night. I have a DFGT and am also experiencing the extreme rattle. I have read through the posts and found a few things to change, but I am confused as to where I can find the Steering torque filter="0" setting.
Do I need to change an .ini file like in notepad, or is this in the controller menu and I am just missing it?
"you can try increasing this value in your Userdata/player controller.ini file"
This is a quote from Scott in the very first post. You might refer to that for the whole post. However, since build .69 I think they worked on that some. I never went back in and changed my ini after the new build anyway and it feels pretty good. Good luck!
You'll find it here: My Documents/rFactor2/UserData/player/Controller ..open the Controller config file & scroll down to: [ Force Feedback ], & about 6th line down: "Steering Torque Filter="put a value here from, say, 8 up to 32 - your choice"
I'm on 32, as I dislike & distrust the rattle, lol
Hi everyone and ISI,
I read through the entire thread and I am getting this bad feeling that adjusting the settings is once again pure guesswork or trial and error. Cant ISI use more intuitive explanations next to the adjustable parameters to mimimize the guessing and time-wasting?
I've already gone through this in rF1 and I know how difficult it is to find the right combination based on hardware and taste.
And this entire discussion is only about FFB, I cant begin to imagine all the other settings needed before one starts racing.
Is it possible for ISI to put out a document explainging the basic setups required and what is tweakable in each of the files? This would go a long way.
Still looking forward to the release of rF2 and hope it makes a big difference over rF1.
Today I spent most of the day re-configuring rFactor 2's force feedback setup.
I think I've found a good compromise between feeling how the car handles and having your wheel explode or your arms ripped out.
I made two files:
KINSMAN'S FEEL THE FORCE (C) Feedback Settings for G25/G27 - LIGHT
KINSMAN'S FEEL THE FORCE (C) Feedback Settings for G25/G27 - MEDIUM
Now I'm not going to FORCE FEEDBACK (excuse the pun) but of course I would appreciate some if anyone has anything to add/offer.
Please note that each file requires a different recommended in-game force feedback setting to work as desired. Try using these in conjunction with the info previously discussed here.
Good luck with it and I hope it works well for you.
Will leave this thread open, please don't post a single post into many threads like you did with this. Thanks.
Just trying to help as many people with the same problem as I can, sir.
I understand, but you resurrected duplicate threads, which are bad enough at spreading out information the first time they exist, now you made them exist again. There was a thread on the first page you could have just used, and everyone would have got the info just fine.
Separate names with a comma.