If you are experiencing a strong noise/rattle with your controller...

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Michael Juliano, Jan 11, 2012.

  1. MystaMagoo

    MystaMagoo Registered

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    Nope,there's something not quite right with the FFB or it's the way G25/27 is designed.

    The 'fault' for me is in the center,which is why it could be the design fault.
    Spa in the 60's F2,going down any straight and it 'knocks'.
    No way should it knock going in a straight line.

    Personally I think the G25/7 is a design flaw or at best a software fault.
    All the give and take of the 2 motors fighting/not fighting each other in the center.
    It's just plain wrong.

    Does anyone with a belt driven wheel get the 'knocks' while going in a straight line at Spa?

    Are people still using 0 for centering/damper in the logitech profiler?
     
  2. buddhatree

    buddhatree Registered

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    On track, the FFB is perfect. Beyond perfect. The best FFB I've ever felt in any sim. And I have a G27.

    I don't know what knocks in a straight line you are talking about. I believe those are bumps on the road. If you've ever driven on a laser scanned track, well Spa feels like a laser scanned track.

    You can feel every bump, crack, etc. It's beyond perfect.
     
  3. MystaMagoo

    MystaMagoo Registered

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    Feeling the cracks and bumps is great but it shouldn't cause the wheel to audibly knock,jolt yes,but not knock.
    But this is a beta :) and I can live with it,until I go off track then my Wife can't live with it :(
     
  4. juggle

    juggle Registered

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    TY ,not so much of a hastle keeping it straight
     
  5. MystaMagoo

    MystaMagoo Registered

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    The problem with the FFB for me is all in the center.
    It's just too notchety,ratchety if those are the right words to use?

    Too much going on,like loads of small FFB spikes,making the wheel bang,slap,twitch etc etc

    I've tried using some deadzone in the center but that just makes the cars drive like barges :(

    The thing that lessened the effect to some degree was turning the spring/damper and centering spring effects to 100% in logitech software.
    Not sure which one lessened the effect,will test more today.

    This all happens at Spa in an F2.
    Will test other tracks also today if I get the time.
     
  6. hushypushy

    hushypushy Registered

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    I could comment on your spring/damper settings (should always be 0%) and the knocking in a straight line (which doesn't happen on my G27), but I'd like to comment on this...

    I think the "spikes" you are talking about is exactly what's supposed to be happening. You're going 160+ mph down a rural Belgian road...it's not going to be glass smooth. Also remember you're driving a car with simple, direct steering geometry and no power assist. If you were going that fast down such a heinous road, there would be a major problem if the steering wheel were NOT jumping around in your hands!

    Modern cars have pretty pathetic, numb steering...even when flying over mottled tarmac, you barely feel a rattle in your hands. On the other hand, I drive a 1988 CRX with manual steering...am I proud or glad that it has so much bump-steer? Not really, but that type of feel reminds me a lot of these old Formula cars in rF2...when the pavement gets rough you really have to fight to keep it on the road.
     
  7. Jaka Ursic

    Jaka Ursic Registered

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    I had the same "knocking" experience with my Logitech. Now i have a Fanatec CSR and there's no more knocks, not ever. Smoothing filter on 0 .
    I think its a "gear" based wheels flaw. Because the FFB in rF2 is so raw now, not filtered, the geared wheels experience knocking from small fast FFB inputs. Get a belt driven wheel and you're be a happy bunny.
    BTW Fanatec now offers Value packs for the CSR wheel.
    Starting from 199$ for just the CSR wheel, to 359$ CSR Wheel+Shifter set+CSR Elite pedals. If you have the cash the last one is the one to get. You won't regret the Wheel , let alone the amzing load cell CSR Elite pedals.
     
  8. MystaMagoo

    MystaMagoo Registered

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    I think your about spot on M8.
    I've been after a Fanatec 911GT3RS for ages.
     
  9. JvM

    JvM Registered

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    Update release notes had this:
    "Added controller.ini variable "Off-road multiplier" at least until we have proper soft terrain physics modeling."

    To devs: is it now better to try and use that for the rattle on grass etc? :) Or should it already be better with the default values..? (haven't had time to test after update yet)
     
  10. rasbcs04

    rasbcs04 Registered

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    Hi,

    I'm new to all of this and never played the original game, but it seems you are the only person on this forum who gets the same problem as I do with the G27, i.e. the problems is the centering of the wheel, I can live with a noisy wheel but not one where it's a problem just keeping a car in a straight line. When driving in this game I feel the car moving around when driving in a straight line (like a barge is a good description). It doesn't resemble anything like a driving experience in my book (the G27 works fine in Dirt 3 and F1 2011). Please let me know if you get to the bottom of the settings as I feel I've wasted my money on the game at this point.
     
  11. Bogboy

    Bogboy Registered

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    I have a G27 and it feels Real cant see what your all batting on about have a **** about with your settings
     
  12. g7usl

    g7usl Registered

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    Yes but, even in the '60s' they used 'steering dampers' that prevented this happening.
     
  13. RCRacing

    RCRacing Registered

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    I have done this and saved the .plr but when in game, I have to keep changing my wheel profile "in game" to correct profile everytime entering the game. Which in turn switches the Steering torque filter="0" right back to "0" any ideas as to why?
     
  14. Terence Groening

    Terence Groening Member

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    The default for that new variable is 0.15 (meaning 15% strength on grass/gravel/dirt), so it should be a better "by default".
     
  15. RCRacing

    RCRacing Registered

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    @ISI staff Can someone reply as to why my plr file will not save. The steering Torque Filter keeps reverting back to "0". There a way to stop this, or am I doin something wrong? I cant drive with that G27 rattle.
     
  16. marto

    marto Registered

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    you must save as save as and over wright it
    both Userdata/player controller.ini file (if you saved your own profile you would have to change it there as well):
     
  17. Terence Groening

    Terence Groening Member

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    Two things:

    1) When you say you keep changing your wheel profile "in game", I assume you are saying you are pressing "Load" and selecting a profile. That's going to overwrite whatever you put in UserData\controller.ini. If I've misinterpreted what you mean, let me know.

    So whatever profile you are loading is located in UserData\Controller\ and you will want to set the Torque Filter value in that file.

    2) But there seems to be another problem here. Why do you have to keep loading that profile every time you enter? Once you load it, your UserData\controller.ini file should simply be a copy of the profile you loaded, and it should say the name of that profile at the bottom right of the CONTROLS UI page (and, FYI, that name is stored at the bottom of the PLR file).
     
  18. RCRacing

    RCRacing Registered

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    1) fixed my issue. Feel kinda silly :) Thank you for reply I have it comfortable now. Tx again Terrance :)
     
  19. Mmb

    Mmb Registered

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    Default rattle was unplayable on my logitech momo. Distorted all the feel of the car, now with steering torque filter of 12 it is fine (8 still too much rattle)
     
  20. Hybrid

    Hybrid Registered

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    Is this "fix" still needed for the latest build? :)
     

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