Lazza
Registered
Simhub or telemetry.
But bear in mind the in-game clipping doesn't change with your wheel. If you needed 60% on a car before to avoid basically all clipping, you still will.
Guide: Optimal FFB settings for rFactor 2 - The key to being in the "Zone" :D
- Thread starter DrR1pper
- Start date
Simhub or telemetry.
But bear in mind the in-game clipping doesn't change with your wheel. If you needed 60% on a car before to avoid basically all clipping, you still will.
ThomasJohansen
Registered
try attached zip file for a FFB Simhub overlay
you can see it in function here, its the one in bottom left
Lazza
Registered
Generally very little needs adjusting in the json, because most of it is old options that don't do anything (or are off by default). I'd also like to mention that if the above are the old "Fanatec recommended" settings, I've on several occasions seen people recommend to NOT use them.
I'll go slightly out on a limb based on what I've read here and there, and suggest you check these 2 things in the json:
"Steering resistance type":0,
"Steering resistance type#":"0=use damping, 1=use friction",
"Steering spring coefficient":0,
"Steering spring coefficient#":"Static spring effect rate (-1.0 to 1.0)",
"Steering spring saturation":0.1,
"Steering spring saturation#":"Static spring effect peak force (0.0 to 1.0)",
The first should generally be 0 I believe, it may be set to 1 on the profile you loaded. So try that on 0 if it's not already.
The second will disable extra steering resistance added by the game. Fairly sure either of coefficient or saturation on 0 will disable it.
The other important settings are exposed in the UI already, no need for JSON editing.
DrR1pper
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Most welcome. Just happy to find this thread is (somewhat) alive after all these years, lol. 
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DrR1pper
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Excellent find! So it seems that there must be sizable ramp up time (greater than 300ms, less than 5000ms) for the motor/wheel to match the force output requested by game/software, causing the plateauing of test results with WheelCheck for some wheels. Though it proves that the wheels in question affected with plateauing in WheelCheck are able to generate linearly increasing force output if the request is held long enough, it does mean that under short enough duration force output moments (e.g. 300ms), there is clipping occurring if the force requested is between 60-100% for e.g. a G27 (iirc the plateauing regime for that wheel).
DD wheels probably have an order or two shorter ramp up time and thus show linear responses on WheelCheck.
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DrR1pper
Registered
But I have a problem!
What with that curve?
I just started WheelCheck and chose Step Log 2 (Linear Force Test)
If my axis data is all nice, is there a way I can soften the hump?
That is strange. Did you ever get this figured out by any chance?
DrR1pper
Registered
I followed the guide by RrR1pper in the original post, using Wheelcheck.exe to check wheel linearity and these are the results using 200 samples.
The x axis is "Force" and the y is "Delta X" both converted to percentages.
If I increase the minimum force above 1% the wheel will start to oscillate when stationary. My wheel is new and its a newly manufactured example as it has Xbox series X branding on the box.
Mark
Woah! That's impressive. Wondering if Logitech revamped the electronics to achieve a shorter ramp up time of motor and the tolerance of the gears so there is less backlash.
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That's my understanding. But also they are highly configurable (e.g. Simucube 2) so you can adjust it to make it worse and match almost any wheel.
DrR1pper
Registered
I followed the guide by RrR1pper in the original post, using Wheelcheck.exe to check wheel linearity and these are the results using 200 samples.
The x axis is "Force" and the y is "Delta X" both converted to percentages.
If I increase the minimum force above 1% the wheel will start to oscillate when stationary. My wheel is new and its a newly manufactured example as it has Xbox series X branding on the box.
Mark
So it seems the the FFB deadzone was much improved for the G920/923 hence the much lower minimum force needed vs. G27/29.
DiggerHawk
Registered
The G920 is just the Xbox compatible version of the G29, which is PlayStation compatible. The later G923 name is used for both consoles versions. Maybe they have used some of the parts from the G923 in the newer manufactured versions of the G29/920's. Either way I am happy with my wheel as it feels great. I haven't noticed any notchy feeling like others with similar wheels have, but then I have never had a Direct drive or belt driven wheel to compare with so maybe my ignorance is bliss.
DrR1pper
Registered
Ah ok. Then surely it must be as you say, that they're using the upgrades of the G923 on the G920 too. Plausibility test: Did you get your G920 before or after 29 September 2020 (G923 release date)?
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DiggerHawk
Registered
I purchased my G920 after the G923 was released. If I remember correctly the G923 was way more expensive as it was just out, so I decided on the G920 as it was almost the same wheel but more in my budget at the time. I could have got the G29 but I thought the G920 looked better, being all black even though it lacks the shift lights. This was at the hight of the pandemic fuelled sim racing craze so I missed out on getting it even cheaper, as they were about a month before (supply and demand at its finest).
Hi, any setting recommendations for a TM TS-PC be It on the TM app and In-game?
Currently on the TM app I have, 0 spring, and 0 dampening, FFB 75% and wheel range 900º. In-game smoothing at 4 and multiplier at 65%, steering effect strength negative. Anything not mentioned Is set by default.
Currently on the TM app I have, 0 spring, and 0 dampening, FFB 75% and wheel range 900º. In-game smoothing at 4 and multiplier at 65%, steering effect strength negative. Anything not mentioned Is set by default.
DrR1pper
Registered
Maybe someone else will chime in but from memory, sounds like how I would have set it up if I had that wheel apart from in-game smoothing 0 and ffb multiplier car dependent. But things might have changed in rf2 since then. Not played it nor any racing sim properly since 2014 but about to try it again for the first time sometime this week with a TS-PC and CSL pedals LC (building a rig for a friend, testing if TS-PC is enough or whether he should get CSL DD instead and then going to build my own with DD rig to re-enter the sim racing world....excited to rejoin.)
Thanks for your reply, and well glad you are getting back to the sim racing world. Welcome back!
