Guide: Optimal FFB settings for rFactor 2 - The key to being in the "Zone" :D

I ran for years without FFB, (hyperstimulator ) and although not alien fast was as quick as many when hotlapping, now running a CSV2 Im probably not faster(most likely slower) but I can manage my tires so much better which was my undoing in many races and the immersion is worth losing time for alone.

 

Hi, quick question as I'm still struggling to get my Logitech G25 set up to deliver enough information in rF2:

So, I followed the guide and set the Overall FFB strength in the Logitech profiler to 91% for linearity. I ran the Min Force check and set it to 14.5%. Now, as the profiler is well under 100% Overall FFB strength, I assume I can set the In-Game FFB-Multiplier a bit higher than the default. So I ran a few laps with the Clio Cup and set it high enough so that it just doesn't clip in fast corners around Silverstone (set to light rubber preset) according the the PedalOverlay Plugin, which for me results in a FFB-Multi of 1.22. But now I've read the notes in the OP and it says the PedalOverlay Plugin only measures software clipping and is blind to hardware clipping.

So my questions are: Can I assume, if there is no software clipping, that there is also no hardware clipping? Reading through the thread, I guess the answer is no?
If not, is there any way to measure hardware clipping, or maybe some way to test for it?

I know I need to upgrade my hardware, but thats out of reach financially at the moment, so I try to get the most out of my G25 for now.

 

To the part in bold, no, this is not true. Lowering your profiler overall ffb strength does not mean you can/should increase the ingame ffb multiplier. The ingame ffb multiplier should be set appropriately so that little to no ffb clipping occurs from the "software" (i.e. rf2) side of things. The PedalOverlay Plugin shows you whether the ffb from the game is clipping or not but it cannot tell you if that ends up with your hardware truly clipping or not because it cannot account for how you've setup your profilers overall ffb effects strength. The plugin cannot tell/account for whether you have set your profilers overall ffb effects strength to 10% or 120% (which will almost certainly have some clipping).

So the optimal ingame (car-specific) ffb multiplier is really independent to what you have set in your profiler overall ffb effects strength.

Fyi, it might be ok/better to use a higher setting than 91%. It doesn't have to be perfectly linear and trading some linearity for a smaller initial deadzone and higher peak torque can make the ffb feel better/stronger/more-responsive feeling. For instance instead of using the default 60% for my t500, i use 70% in the profiler which does cause a little clipping towards the top but it significantly strengthened up the low end forces. To account for the little bit of top end clipping from the profiler, i simply lower the ingame ffb multiplier a little bit below the optimal if need be.

 

OK, thanks for clarifying that. That's where the mistake in my thinking lay. On topic of software clipping, how much does track grip influence that? Could the quite high FFB-Mulit value for the Clio come from the fact that the track is "too slippery"? How do you set up the track for testing for software clipping?

I will certainly try that as soon as I get home. Thanks for the quick reply, I really appreciate that.

 

I could be wrong but i would guess, a lot. I mean, the virtual steering wheel forces (that then directly translate into ffb forces in rf2) are determined by the road-tyre interaction. Two sources coming from the longitudinal and lateral grip/friction of the tyre with the road and the third source being the vertical component, load distribution on the tyres (i.e. weight shift during cornering) which in of itself is limited by how much grip the tyres have to make a tighter radius turn at the same speed (because tighter radius at same speed will cause more weight shift).

If you want to test track effects on software clipping, then techade's pedal overlay plugin is all you need again.

 

What's this setting in rF1 again?

 

Which setting (not that i'll be able to answer though because i did not play rf1)?

 

STM/STS or the equivalent,if there is one of course.

 

Thought I'd throw in my two cents worth and contribute to this great thread.

This is my personal preference with the G27:

Whatever the car specific multi or min torque are set to, I don't like to feel any 'notchiness' (is that an actual word?) around the center point. If I set the min torque to what some people are suggesting here (eg. 10%-15%), there is a notchy feeling around the center which I really dislike. I also find that I lose some fine details to the ffb the higher the min torque, i.e there's less variance between weak forces and strong forces.

If I run with lower min torque eg. 0%-5%, there is a fairly big dead spot on center, but the forces just either side of the dead spot are kind of soft and they blend into the dead spot, creating a smooth feeling. I try to reduce the dead spot as much as I can, but ultimately smoothness takes priority.

Current settings are:

Logitech Profiler: 107% (if I set this to 100%, the dead spot is huge, so I dial in more min torque)
Smoothing: 12 (lose a little detail here, but there is less grainy feeling, to me it feels more like a real car)
Car specific multi: as much as possible without clipping during heavy cornering, usually around .80 - .90
Min torque: 0-3%

Other than that I set caster to the point were under steer feels slightly lighter than limit cornering.

Quick question and sorry if it's been discussed before, but is a thrustmaster t300 or t500 vastly superior to a g27, or only slightly better? Specifically the feeling around center and smoothness? I don't think the G27 does rf2 justice.

 

Have you tried using higher Steering Torgue Sensitivity from controller.json. I think it could help with that dead spot.
I had similar thoughts about min torque when i was using my TX wheel and kept it at 0%.

I went from g27 to TX and TX ffb was more detailed because there wasn't as much play in the ffb system than in g27 (Helical gear moving back and forth).
Later tightened TX's belts and then it felt even better.
Tx is mostly same wheel as T300. TX's lighter rim might be advantage ffb wise.

 

The 'notchiness' of the G25/27 is due to it's twin motors and it's firmware.
Logitech's firmware is designed to 'create' this center deadspot to stop the motors fighting each other.
You can dial it out to a degree.

 

i own a G27, may i ask why did you use 90% in the profiler instead of 100% ?

 

90% seems to be the setting with the most/best linearity, although from what I've learned for the older wheels like G25/G27 it's better to forgo a bit of linearity for more FFB strength and set the profiler to 100% or even a notch or two higher. That also should help reduce the needed Min Force.

 

I found 105% to be the best setting to reduce the center deadspot in the FFB. Had 107% but that was just a tad too high.

In the end though I just got a Fanatec CSR and now a TX 458, and I am happy to say both have been massive improvements in this area specifically, as no special adjustments are needed to remove this.

Obviously I know that not everyone can afford an upgrade though, as I got both of these for massive discounts.

 

hi guys, i have the deadzone issue on my g27, it say's that the UI has the minimum torque setting available to help with the deadzone, i have no minimum torque category anywhere. is this a new setting or have i just an old version of the game that has not been updated. this deadzone is doing my sweed in, the steering is just so floaty. i have played around with the settings but to no avail. i have printed out the guide to optimal ffb settings for rfactor 2 so have been going by that. it's just that i cannot find the minimum torque setting. any help would be gratefully received thanks.

 

You don't see it ingame in the settings then controls tab UI?

 

I had a frustrating, but interesting experience recently that proved this is also true for Fanatec. Despite my Fanatec control panel reading 900 degrees and 100% Dampening strength, the only two settings and where I had left them for literally years, some glitch in the driver meant that the Dampening setting was not actually at 100% output. I was fiddling around with AMS FFB. The RealFeel settings are very nice to be able to tailor what you want, but I was curious if changes Reiza had made to AMS FFB now meant that the Dampening setting in the control panel made any difference. It had not for rF or any of the subsequent ISI-based titles, but did for rF2 and several other sims/games, so I always left my setting at 100% as a result.

After temporarily turning Dampening off (it does not affect AMS), I put it back to 100%. The next time I went in to rF2, I almost fell out of my chair. Suddenly, the FFB was amazing and felt like all the accolade-ridden descriptions we read in this forum. It was back to how I remembered it felt in the old days. I assumed somewhere along the way a wheel hardware change, an rF2 build update, a Fanatec driver update, or something had affected the FFB negatively. Nope, I was just missing the Dampening feedback that definitely works as Flaux described.

For a long time, I was afraid to touch the setting for fear that I would lose the goodness again, but eventually relented. Yes, you can remove Fanatec control panel dampening and still feel great FFB compared to most crap titles out there, but the feeling of weight transfer and what the rear of the car is doing is severely debilitated. Somehow, even through driver updates, the dampening was actually set at zero, not 100%, despite the driver slider showing 100%. Fanatec drivers are a bit flakey, but I never imagined this sort of possibility. I know in rF2, the UI will override .JSON file settings only if you load a certain screen or change the value in the UI...something like that must have been occurring.

So conclusions for Fanatec users: try fiddling with the sliders in the control panel...just for the sake of it.

Conclusion for all: dampening, if not set correctly, may have a big effect on the feel of the FFB and in a way that transforms the cars from feeling like ice racing to normal vehicles. It makes me wonder how many of the ice racing type complaints out there are related to incorrect dampening configuration?? And it's not just rF2. I see the exact same contradictory comments about AC, iRacing, and other titles. Half say it's the best FFB ever. The other half say it sucks and the cars are uncontrollable like they are on ice. I can now experience both, by just moving a slider.

 

Very interesting Marc.

 

It is indeed interesting. I always thought that dampening and inertia should be set to 0% in the logitech profiler in my case.

It is very confusing for me how such a basic thing as how the profiler should be configured to get the proper FFB is not explained by ISI. So much frustration from users would be avoided.

By reading several threads in this forum it seems that FFB has been programmed by users and passed to the developers to implement it in the sim.

As it can be deduced from the above, I would appreciate some clarification FROM ISI about this subject. I am really not interested in other people opinions about it. It is useless when it comes to objective things.

Enviado desde mi ONE A2001 mediante Tapatalk

 

Marc, for some reason I don't have a Fanatec control panel, so I've done all my damper/spring setting just on the wheel.