Guide: Optimal FFB settings for rFactor 2 - The key to being in the "Zone" :D

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by DrR1pper, Mar 26, 2014.

  1. raZor-US

    raZor-US Registered

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    Yes...whenever I increase ffb in any way, I lower the torque setting. And, yes, the rattle does turn in to somewhat violent shaking if I don't reduce the torque. I'm guessing there's no way to get rid of that "rattle" completely without losing the higher end ffb, right?
     
  2. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    Do you get violent shaking if you set rf2's steering torque minimum to 0% and use the maximum logitech profiler overall effects strength (135% or whatever the maximum is in the momo profiler?)

    car-specific ffb multiplier should be set to the optimal value (whatever that optimal value may be per car) and left there. However if you do change this value by a sufficient amount, you'll probably also need to change the steering torque minimum value accordingly (that is if you even need any in the first place).
     
  3. raZor-US

    raZor-US Registered

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    Okay...so, here's how I'm going to approach this...I'm going to set Overall Spring Effect in profiler to 90% with all other profiler settings at zero. I have the FFB minimum torque set at 3.5% because that is where I could just barely notice some "rattle" (but just faintly). I figure at this setting I won't be missing out on much of the low end FFB).
    I'll set each vehicles car-specific FFB multiplier to where I don't feel any "rattle". If the ffb feels to vague, then I'll increase this setting and reduce the FFB minimum torque.
    At this point, I won't mess with any other settings until I get real close to what I'm looking for. Although, I will keep the Skip Update at 3 because it seems that probably won't hurt anything.
    I'll see how this works...thanks for all the input!

    ** EDIT **
    I changed the FFB minimum torque to 2.5%. I ran though most of the stock cars with the above settings. The F1 type cars needed less minimum torque else their car-specific multiplier had to be set so low to get rid of the "rattle" that there was next to no feedback. Reducing the minimum torque allowed me to increase the car-specific multiplier to get more feedback without the "rattle".
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 23, 2015
  4. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    Ya you can sort of feel it and hear the clicks because the FFB motor is slow and weak and not powerful enough to make actual movements for those small forces. And, yes, if you keep raising it still then it will oscillate if you let go of the wheel.

    Don't worry, this is normal. It's just FFB doing it's thing due to ramping up the overall forces (making the minute forces when in a straight line more pronounced). Totally normal and may even have the added bonus (as it does in RF1, GTL, SCE, etc.) of helping to make grip loss of tyres, even under total straightline conditions, much more evident.

    Don't worry, it's not gonna kill the wheel or anything. I had your wheel for many years and laps; those movements and clicks won't damage it. Just drive :)
     
  5. yenclas

    yenclas Registered

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    Any good configuration for an Fanatec CSW v2 and BMW Rim ?

    With default settings I feel good but when I drive in kerb the ffb is violent specially with some cars (Formula Renault for example). It I increase FFB Smoothing I lose road feedback. My FFB toque minium is at 0.0 and FFB multiplier at 0.80.

    Thank you very much and sorry by my bad English
     
  6. msportdan

    msportdan Banned

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    ive played rf2 for a good two years, and while yes it is very advanced in its sim prowess, theres just something that lets me down. Some parts of the FFB is amazing, but when turning at speed it kinda lets the whole realism down for me. When i expect the force of of inertia, friction and speed on the tyre to make the steering give resistance - it doesnt! I have no resistance to counter steering or making steeing adjustments mid turn.
    The thing is i do not get this at slower speeds it feels how i expect. But take the fast corners of brazil, and mid turn im turning the wheel with one finger almost with hardly any resistance. Its not clipping either.... Ive played with min force and FFB up to the point of clipping. im not here to put the game down to other, s as i really want a better FFB to enjoy the rest of the sim.

    i just want some expertise in the ffb field to help me rid this, as for me its not nice to drive with, for me the Palatov feels horrendous because of this.

    Its like im going round corners fast and the front wheels are on their own patches of ice. it feels odd imo.. can damper or anything fix this.

    in response to the title of the thread, i definitly do not feel im anywhere near the zone., let alone in it?!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2015
  7. Freddy3792

    Freddy3792 Registered

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    Have you the pedal overlay plugin installed. Would be interesting to see how the FFB signal reacts. I drive a CSW V2 and I can really feel the car loading up mid corner like the Formula Renault. It is light at low speed, but steering gets pretty heavy on fast corners.

    Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk
     
  8. msportdan

    msportdan Banned

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    im usinng the pedal app, its not clipping in these circumstances, opposite actually theres hardly any ffb.?!
     
  9. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    I understand your frustrations. I believe the issue stems from how ffb works and there is currently no way to fix it.

    I chose the title because for me these changes made me significantly more able to drive in the zone. At the time, ensuring the ffb was not clipping made me in less than a week significantly improve my consistency (from e.g. +/- 0.5s to +/- 0.1s) and my fastest lap times by 1.5-2 seconds. But this is not to say there is no further improvement to be had because there is plenty but as i said above, unfortunately i don't believe there is a good way around them (for now).
     
  10. msportdan

    msportdan Banned

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    Sorry ripper, i didnt mean any disrespect, ive learnt a lot from this thread but im finding frustration in that i cant translate it to my wheel. :(

    The ffb for me spoils Rf2 in an otherwise super sim. BUt again i thank you for your knowledge.
     
  11. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    That honestly never even crossed my mind. Your statements of the guide being ineffective or less effective than what i claimed/portrayed it would do in the title is not a sign of you being disrespectful. Not at all. It's feedback and any feedback is always welcome and valuable.

    I understand, agree and appreciate your frustrations completely.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2015
  12. raZor-US

    raZor-US Registered

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    Just a thought, but you're not over-driving the corners are you? This is what should be felt if the corners are driven too hard and the front wheels are actually sliding a bit and not gripping. A setup can be designed with enough oversteer to mask over-driving the corners, where one can still get the car to rotate even with little grip at the front.
    I doubt this is the case, but just throwing it out there :)
     
  13. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    Especially with RF2 physics, lol.
     
  14. msportdan

    msportdan Banned

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    one way i could explain is that imo.

    p.s im no expert in ffb but...
    there feels like there isnt enough self aligning torque past a certain slip angle.
     
  15. Freddy3792

    Freddy3792 Registered

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    The best thing you could do is run the pedal overlay plugin, switch the hud to the tire view and make a video while you are driving. This would enable us to see what is going on on your end.

    Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk
     
  16. msportdan

    msportdan Banned

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    theres two things ive realised..

    a) caster set to 7.5 gives me a much better feeling on my wheel to the point I'm actually faster an more precise now. Front wheels do not feel so much like their on ice around corners now, and I actually have a more authentic feeling resistance in my wheel.

    b) the Palatov for ffb and tyre heat is really badly made. possibly broken.
     
  17. Associat0r

    Associat0r Registered

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    You're majorly misinformed. The Palatov is well made and not broken. It's a 4WD car remember.
     
  18. Joe

    Joe Registered

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    I agreed. The AF wheel not even close to be realistic honestly. The 13 Nm dynamic range just not enough to be considered being realistic.
    At 100% gain of the wheel setting, with lower the STS and FFB multiplier then the wheel loss its strength.....

    I heard people play their DD wheel with set wheel strength set 50%, etc. I do not understand why they do so. To me, shall always set to 100% Otherwise why pay $$$ for the DD wheel. One always can lower the STS and FFB multiplier if feel too strong.
     
  19. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    Joe, I'm pretty sure STS doesn't lower the max force. It sort of just affects how it gets to that max force so lowering the STS won't mean you're not using the full potential of your wheel.
     
  20. enz13

    enz13 Registered

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    just to add my 2cents , after reading this thread its obvious that,there is a real problem with ffb,and whats really telling is no one from isi is seemingly willing to step up and try to give advice.
    now i have just started to race again and unfortunately i have purchased a new g29 wheel{had good service from logi throughout the years}and to say its ffb is vague in rf2 is under-stating by the proverbial mile,it suck's.with a capitol s,this is by no means helped by the new logi software not having adjustable base settings{im on a pc}
    so far its been trial and lots of error ,helped and not helped by this thread.

    so here is my assessment
    rf1 pretty much loaded my old plr setting and good to go{surprised me too lol}

    rf2
    what a disaster.compared with rf1,there is absolutely no continuity between cars at all,some work grip-wise and some are on ice,now for me thats not a ffb problem, its a basic program problem,some-one has got a decimal point in the wrong place.and we are just masking the problem by blaming the wheel and changing ffb setting's.
    i know lots of people may not agree,but if you have to change from linear, well you have a problem,for me thats the 1st rule even back in the n2003 day's when ffb was 1st coming to popularity,once you had linear then you adjusted ffb to how you wanted it to feel for you personally,same for newer titles gtr,gtr2,evo etc all had a pretty much consistent overall feel between car types,rf1 not so much,certain car's seemed spot on and other's meh,the beauty of rf1 is run what you like,the base mod's on the whole were good and the work from some modder's were stunning,and once you had your plr set how you liked you could run pretty much any class and have the same feel,i always ran low setting all i want to feel is suspension and tyres,and it worked even does with new wheel.
    rf2 seem's just too inconsistant between types from the off in comparison, and this is the reason so many people have vague feelings about ffb with certain models.if the car is'nt gripping you wont get much ffb to start with.

    what ive learned from this thread is well,lots of people are trying to fix something that only isi can fix,my only suggestion is run linear 1.0 and use in game adjustments to stop rattles and such,but if the car isnt gripping it's not the wheel.it's the mod.unless you missed the braking point then it's all you :-}
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 2, 2015

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