GTX 680 4gb running 3 screens and reachin 99º (but not throttling)

Dalek said:
Try creating a personnalised fan profile in MSI aferburner and get the fan to kick in as soon as it starts generating heat.
It does sound like something is faulty though...

edit. missed some posts, sorry above is not relevant anymore

On the other hand cooling is difficult to fail, as long as it's all clean.
High voltages generate more heat so it would be best to confirm that your running stock values.
Click to expand...
Exactly, I forgot about this. Actually, for now, just use a constant manual fan speed of 100% (full speed). Just choose a manual percentage and disable any "auto" settings and fan profiles. Then see if you still get crazy temps.

I'm guessing the hugely decreasing GPU core clock changes are from the loading screens of 3D mark or something similar - completely normal. I still do see some small fluctuations during seeming normal 3D use, however it seems pretty minor and normal for the auto-boost GPU clock stuff of modern GPUs. Having said that, I used/use a custom bios for my 3 780 Tis (2 EVGA Superclocked reference versions, and 1 ASUS DC2 Overclocked custom version) as I noticed little stutters, and such, which matched up absolutely perfectly with all the small dynamic GPU-core clock fluctuations that the new cards so stupidly use. However, this does not seem to be your issue since notice the stutters at a very specific and repeating interval.

Blast the fans at a constant 100% while redoing the tests (with monitoring software running).
 
Spinelli said:
Exactly, I forgot about this. Actually, for now, just use a constant manual fan speed of 100% (full speed). Just choose a manual percentage and disable any "auto" settings and fan profiles. Then see if you still get crazy temps.

I'm guessing the hugely decreasing GPU core clock changes are from the loading screens of 3D mark or something similar - completely normal. I still do see some small fluctuations during seeming normal 3D use, however it seems pretty minor and normal for the auto-boost GPU clock stuff of modern GPUs. Having said that, I used/use a custom bios for my 3 780 Tis (2 EVGA Superclocked reference versions, and 1 ASUS DC2 Overclocked custom version) as I noticed little stutters, and such, which matched up absolutely perfectly with all the small dynamic GPU-core clock fluctuations that the new cards so stupidly use. However, this does not seem to be your issue since notice the stutters at a very specific and repeating interval.

Blast the fans at a constant 100% while redoing the tests (with monitoring software running).
Click to expand...

Thanks again Spinelli. Much appreciate you help.

Agree with hugely decreasing gpu core clock from the loading screens of 3DMark.
But i´m having no stutters. I think you are mixing my answer with this guy (http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.p...tering-Affecting-Frame-Rate-and-Control-Input) issue.
I´ll do some other tests latter. I´m about to give up again. :/
 
Thanks for confirming the voltages.
Indeed. The power spikes look bad and they could end up killing it in the end.

For the CPU heat, i'd see 2 things that could have an effect, the card is giving out a lot of heat so maybe cause to effect... and you mentioned that you are running open case with a fan at the side, that can sometimes decrease the cooling.

One question, i gathered you changed the thermal paste, but did you totally disassemble the radiator and clean it at the time ? Around the fan seems like a lovely place for dust to nest...
If you did clean it, then RMA is the way to go.
 
Dalek said:
Thanks for confirming the voltages.
Indeed. The power spikes look bad and they could end up killing it in the end.

For the CPU heat, i'd see 2 things that could have an effect, the card is giving out a lot of heat so maybe cause to effect... and you mentioned that you are running open case with a fan at the side, that can sometimes decrease the cooling.

One question, i gathered you changed the thermal paste, but did you totally disassemble the radiator and clean it at the time ? Around the fan seems like a lovely place for dust to nest...
If you did clean it, then RMA is the way to go.
Click to expand...

Yeah, its crazy. Since my processor is brand new, i´m pretending to improve with a water cooling (cannot afford lose this kind of money invested): Corsair water coolin H100i (any hints if is this good enough for i74790?)

For the gpu i´m kind lost. I think i have that card for about one year and a half (have to check). According to box is 3 year warranty but i dont know how to rma the card since i´m in Brasil and bought this gpu on Usa. I don´t know if shipping costs worth to do it. I have to research what buyers in my country do when this happen.

I read in a usa forum these days about a guy getting high temps with this same model and when he returned his gpu to the manufacturer, he said they only reeinstal the firmware (don´t how how he knows what they did) and return his gpu from him with normal temps on load.

Anyway, thank you very much for your attention, but could you guys please give some advice on that water cooling model? And if is possible that power supply is causing this malfunction (already change cables but didnt worry on clean it)?
 
Humm didnt worry on cleaning it ?
It would really be worth confirming that the fins on the radiator are clean... ;)

Get in touch with the maker, they will let you know their process. They might, really not sure, but maybe they might let you send it in locally. Only they can tell you.
I know nothing about water cooling so i cant help you there.
 
Sorry, forget to mention: already cleaned fans and heatsink at the first time i notice high temps on idle.
And thanks for the tips about rma stuff.

Anyone who can tell something about water cooling, please, dont be shy.

Thanks again Dalek. cya!
 
Well, could not wait for replies and bought corsair h110 water cooling.
for what i has researched, its good choice. Lets see when arrive.
 
Push/pull is double the fans on the radiator. Instead of only fans on one side of the radiator, - which are either set-up to pull air out from the radiator, or to push air into and through the radiator - you have fans on both sides. This allows for a "push/pull" config because you can use the fans on one side to push air into and through the rad, while the other sides' fans are used to pull air out of and away from the rad.

You generally want the exact same model fans all around.

Push/pull makes more of a difference the thicker the radiator is. For eg. going with a push/pull config on my Swiftech H320 probably only lowers temps-on-load by a further 1-3 degrees C since the H320 doesn't use too thick of a rad (I still went push/pull anyways ;) ).
 
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John said:
For cooling your GPU? I thought you had heat issues with just your GPU, so water cooling that would require a specific water block and a custom cooling setup normally. Though there was a bracket device that did allow the use of a cpu water block (such as the H110) but that would still only cool the gpu and not the video memory as well - something a proper gpu water block is designed to do.
Click to expand...

No, unfortunately not only the gpu is getting high temps. I tryied to optmize system using asus software and my cpu is hitting 100°C. I will solve this first since the cpu and motherboard is brand new and i dont have an optimized case. Only running stock intel heat sink. After sovlve this i will get back to gpu. Thanks for the tips
 
Even with the stock heatsink, the CPU should never even get close to 100 degrees unless you're overvolting and overclocking, and even then, only when running demanding stress programs like Intel Burn Test, Prime95 (w/ small FFTs), etc. 100 C is like meltdown territory.

Is there a PC shop (Like NCIX or a small place, not a Best Buy or anything like that) near you which can take a look at your PC?

I don't understand the insane temps, even if you have a subpar case. Something else must be off, maybe the case fans are reversed? Maybe the CPU cooler is installed incorrectly? Maybe the fans are always staying at their low idle speeds?

Have you tried resetting everything in the BIOS back to default? There should be an option to set everything back to "optimized defaults".
 
When i get 100° was after click on some feature of asus software. As i understand this overclocked the cpu to 4.5 or 4.6 mhz (instead the stock 4.0 mhz). As i remember, i,ve reached below 80° degrees before doing that at the same test tool (3d mark).

Besides that, I just got the cooler and the 2 fans and radiator are huge. No way this will fit in my case. I should do better reasearch before buying expensive things. :/

I'm not near my sim rig now. Have no idea for now how i will solve this.
 
Je suis Luis said:
When i get 100° was after click on some feature of asus software. As i understand this overclocked the cpu to 4.5 or 4.6 mhz (instead the stock 4.0 mhz). As i remember, i,ve reached below 80° degrees before doing that at the same test tool (3d mark).
Click to expand...
That autooverclocking program probably raised the crap out of your Vcore which lead to high temps. Disable any overclocking software. Then reboot into your BIOS and make sure you set everything back to 100% stock. Then from there we can slowly overclock 1 step at a time while keeping temperatures in check.

What CPU are you using?

The general consensus regarding CPU voltages are the following (The first vcore value is what you should try to not go over, especially for 24/7 use at that vcore, the 2nd is the max even if just temporary at that vcore)
- Sandy Bridge/ Sandy Bridge-E (eg. 2500k, 2600k, 3930k) = 1.40v, 1.45v
- Ivy Bridge / Ivy Bridge-E (eg. 3570k, 3770k, 4930k) = 1.35v, 1.4v
- Haswell / Haswell-E (eg. 4670k, 4770k, 5930k) = 1.30v - 1.35v

- I'm assuming Devil's Canyon [eg. 4690k, 4790k] is the same as Haswell since they're almost the same chip, but I'm not 100% sure.

With the stock Intel cooler though, you'll be limited by heat before you are even able to reach those voltages (and their corresponding max stable clockspeeds). So I wouldn't even try those vcore values with the stock cooler, infact, completely ignore the second, higher value; I'm just saying that if/when heat doesn't become the limiting factor, try to go no higher than the first value, or maybe just a touch over like 0.015v over (especially if it's just a temporary clock during gaming and other intensive tasks rather than a constant 24/7 clock).
 
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