My wheel : G25 Profiler: ------------------ Overall Effect Strength : 100 Spring Effect Strength : 0 Damper Effect Strength : 0 Centering Sprinng in FFB games: DISABLED Centering Spring Strength: 0 Combined Pedals : DISABLED Degrees of Rotation: 270 Allow game to adjust settings: ENABLED. rFactor2: ----------------------------------------- Steering Sensitivity: 100 Speed Sensitivity : 0 Force Feedback: Wheel Steering Wheel Range: 270 Car Specibic FFB Mult: 0.56 FFB Smoothing: 0 My problem is that the wheel ON STRAIGHTS moves from one side to another (its crazy) like if it was a boat and you were shifting weight from right to left side. This effect almost disappears when you use Car Specific FFB MuLT like 0.50 or so but then FFB becomes very very weak; and if I increase Car Specific FFB MuLT (I like to make strength to turn the wheel ) the ''boating effect '' increases exponentially. and NO it is just NOT a question about just holding the wheel stronger; I have been racing many years and like it is difficult to turn the wheel, but cant drive if in straights wheel moves left and right quickly that even HOLDING firmly , you cant drive,nor in a race use LCD with the other hand to pit. Thanks a lot
Dude,reverse the ffb in rf2,on Logitech wheels, ffb is seen in reverse, so in rf2 settings for ffb, turn it to -100,should work for you too, i use it like that, everything cool Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Thanks a lot to both, I really appreciate your help. I will try it tonight when arrive home and set that Steering effects strength to a negative value. (think to remember I used the option in game to detect my wheel and it should have written a neg value in the config file; Im new to rFactor2 and really I had no idea about any parameter in the config file. )
also FFB smoothing is a good way to decrease roughness without toning down the actual FFB. it might differ per mod/track on what it needs.
Tried that last days and FFB smothing did not not fix it, even at max value, it generated rattling at 0 value and when you increased it you felt wheel reactions (like when you get out of track) were weaker but even at max value the 'boating effect' as I call it, did not disappear. Also if you set wheel sensivity to 20 % it disappeared but I like to drive with 100 % wheel sensivity (Linear). Thanks a lot
Not sure about that, I thing 50% is to be linear like in rF1 on this parameter. If someone of the ISI staff can confirm this?
100% is linear steering rotation in rF2, as seen by the straight lines on the steering graph above the slider. For rF1 50% is linear. Sempa try raising degrees of rotation in logitech profiler, this should loosen the ffb a bit to be more manageable. You can still keep in game degrees as low as that but most people run 900 in profiler and use the car set degrees in rF2 settings. I'm guessing you are also having to lower steering lock a lot in garage setup, I know I had to whenever i've used low degrees like that before so you can run more degrees and a higher steering lock. Definitely mess about with degrees in the profiler though it really changes how compressed the ffb is(best word I can think of to describe it).
Ah ok, steering rate is only for keyboard, controller etc. it doesn't change anything for steering wheels.
So after intensive tests, I am sure it was not Reversed FFB but excessive Clipping. I have fixed it but to tell you the truth I am not very happy with the solution cause FFB is weak for what I am used to. This is what I did: In Profiler I just changed Overall effect Strength from 100% to 110% and Degrees of Rotation from 270 to 900. (Hectari you were right about Degrees of rotation and how 'compressed FFB is') In rFactor: ------------ Steering wheel range:270 (if you raise this, clipping tends to decrease but I am not used to driving with 400 degrees, perhaps it is just a question of getting used to it as I know many people do) CarSpecific FFB: from 0.56 to 0.70 (its too weak to my taste) FFB Smothing: from 0 to 5 (0,1,2,3,4 gave me rattling) In Controller.ini: Steering resistance saturation="0.10000" to 0.00001 'I can drive',no crazy clipping (even holding firmly in straights I couldnt keep car in straight line), no rattling although not completely happy with the strength of FFB; Perhaps Im wrong but I have the feeling I am limited by the wheel itself and that my dear G25 (bought it when first launched) has got old for modern games and perhaps its about time thinking to get a new wheel. So we could say problem is SOLVED. (I would be grateful if somebody who owns a g25 and happy settings in rfactor2 would post his rfactor2 FFB section of his controller.ini Really thank you very much.
Maybe do a video of what the wheel does exactly, and g27 and g25 should be exactly the same, i can post my g27 setting for every sim, and my ini files if you want, but only in about 12 hours when i get home, let me know. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
What happens to my wheel in straights (holding it firmly) is what happens in this video I found ""only when the guy is not holding the wheel"" (but I do hold it),and in a crazy way ,then think you would hold the wheel and no way to stop that oscillation even if you hold it with all your strength your hands just can follow the movement and not stop it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPRNPWQNPb0 Yes please,post your g27 settings and will give them a try tonight. Thanks a lot.
I've used these profiler settings for quite some time now and never change anything here, though I might experiment again to see if there are better settings since so many builds have passed. Overall very happy though: In game: I change car specific ffb and smoothing to preference all the time. These depend on the car, track and setup changes. I'll play about with them until I get all the feeling I need and where I need it to be in control to run confidently. Smoothing I usually try and run as low as possible, sometimes even 0. Pedal overlay plugin is very useful to check clipping but since the G25 is quite weak I actually sometimes deliberately run ffb to clip in the fastest corner/s of a track to give more feeling in the slower corners, but it's a compromise and whether it's worth it(the fastest corners might be really important like at Belgium in EVE F1 I avoid clipping in Masta etc. at all costs), just depends which setting will give me the lowest laptime. A typical example of this is at Brianza 10K I tend to let the ffb clip massively(found I could actually make it clip so much that the wheel went quiet instead of shaking itself to bits and breaching the peace) through the oval section so that I get great feeling through Curva Grande(almost clips through there) and the slower corners. Though since the introduction of the steering torque minimum in controller.ini there is better feeling of grip level at slower speeds. I've currently got it set to 0.05000 but it needs fine tuned between cars(maybe setups too). GT cars are what i'm using that setting with just now and it's decent but probably not optimal. I prefer no STM in the Civic because I can feel much better the threshold of traction under power(best for feeling traction for optimum acceleration and helps you look after the tyres when needed), tried it with the STM and it just wasn't as nice to drive, it totally numbed me to the level of traction of the front wheels but maybe I was just using too high a value and would still benefit from using a value above 0. So much testing and tweaking is necessary to get the most from rF2. I always run car set degrees of rotation too and change steering lock to suit, depending on the car and track I might lower it quite a lot but at Monaco for example it needs to be run at maximum(steering lock) I find(can be advantageous(easier!) to run lower degrees in some cases but I stick to what the car actually has). If a change that is potentially better or reported by others to be better than what you had previously and doesn't feel good or right at first you might just need to give it time to adapt before you exceed what you were capable of previously. A lot of new things feel awkward at first and some feel just right from the get go. It's down to you to decide what to try and what to persevere with, you reap what you sow in the sim world! There's lots to learn but you can only learn so much from others, the rest has to be done by you with trial and error. Also I think i'm one of the few that uses look ahead(100%!). I'm very used to using it and i'm faster with it than without(I realise I might be dependent on this setting since i'm so used to it and not willing to re-adapt to driving without it-yet). Since I use a single monitor and realistic FOV I welcome the camera movement to see further ahead even though it doesn't happen until turn in. It works well for all but the tightest of corners. I could use head tracking which i've been meaning to test, could be a better solution. Another positive of using it is that it encourages me to be smooth, one turn in on corner entry and one turn out on corner exit means that my camera position is smooth and i've learned to account for that movement and my brain magically filters it out of the equation to still receive other visual cues, even when I need to make corrections I can still do so very effectively. I guess my eyes are very used to the movement caused by my hands, like i'm synced up to the camera movement i'm causing. It did take time to get used to though! If I had triples i'm sure i'd be better off without it. I used to also use exaggerate yaw at 100% and I had adapted to use that and still be fast but managed to wean myself off of it. It's amazing how we can adapt to so many different settings, just be careful not to get stuck on using something that is holding you back from reaching your full potential, like me and my look ahead setting! The STM is the only thing i've changed in controller.ini so no point posting my settings, the rest is default. Disclaimer: I'm not advocating using 'look ahead' or any of the other settings i've posted! It's where i'm at just now and works well for me. A lot of people use some 'real headmotion' plugin or something and swear by it being better than any in game settings you can use for seeing visually what the car is doing. I know this wasn't what you asked for but better to explain the settings you see in my screenshots and why I think I use them. This post turned out a lot longer than I thought it would
If you had this set to 0.1 it was probably your problem. That's forcing the wheel to push either left or right at minimum 10% force at ALL times. That's fine during cornering (you'll generally have more actual force than that anyway) but down a straight would probably be too much. This setting is off (0.0) by default. I'd suggest putting everything back to default (back up your current if you want) and changing only what you really think you need to change.
Thanks a lot for your explanations and time ,man ¡¡¡ You are right ,A lot of new things feel awkward at first and when you get used to them you cant live without them. I had already planned to drive with many more rotation degrees and Im beginning to think it is a must now. I will try your configuration tonight.
Changing steering torque minimum up will help you feel more in slow corners despite of lower ffb multi. Ps. I also reccommed setting your profile steering range to 900 degrees and in game click "vechicle set" steering range on. This way you get how it's supposed to be, how it's intended I guess.
Thanks a lot for your reply mate ¡¡¡ To tell you the truth I did not know what to do anymore and started changing parameters in controller.ini, and changing that one by chance was when I noticed it had improved a lot.
Thanks a lot for your reply mate ¡¡¡ it is to 900 degrees in profiler and yes I have realized I have to get used to driving with 400 or 450 degreees (this is the value that vehicle set fixes); I usually drive F1s with 270 or 300 degrees.
Well I dunno if mine is already doing what yours is doing, but I drive fine with my settings like this. In Control Panel: Degrees : 462 Overall Strength: 102% Enable Game to Adjust Settings: Tick. All the rest at 0% and centering spring disabled. Then in rF2 I set the steering degrees for "Use Vehicle Set". FFB multiplier at 1.00, filter at 0-2 depending on the track. I haven't done anything with the config files, and my G25 seems to run fine. I can drive well with it and get a wide range of forces, and it doesn't wobble really hard like you are describing yours does. Some would probably find it weak at low speeds though, but you get tuned in to it after a bit. I have tried cranking the FFB multiplier up, and it makes it a lot stronger/clips a lot more, but it didn't get excessive when the wheel is centered. I remember reading things regarding Logitech toning things down around the center to try and protect the wheels. It's like something with yours isn't like that XD It can depend on the track though, as if I take the Howston around 60's Spa, the wheel really does kick and rock down the straights, but then it seems like it should be doing that, when you have a look at the bumps in the surface
