Released Formula E Gen2 + Lester Special Edition!

Does this and monaco get an update?
Yesterday dl from workshop an update, whats the changelog?

upload_2020-4-16_18-20-10.png
 
Hi all,
Don't know if I'm alone with this issue but only my car have red glow disk when braking, AI cars don't.
I've got that trouble for a long time before yesterday update and it's still KO :(...
 
The Formula E cars feel very grainy and have horrible oscillations for me when turning, braking and at high speed. I've tried unsubscribing from them and re-downloading them 3 times but still the same issue. I'm running the Fanatec DD1 (driver 356) and have to run the in-game smoothing at 32 plus the FFB Interpolation at 6 just to get rid of the graininess in the FFB but the oscillations are still there. If I set the in-game FFB Smoothing to zero, just turning out of the garage makes my wheel oscillate like crazy.
 
The Formula E cars feel very grainy and have horrible oscillations for me when turning, braking and at high speed. I've tried unsubscribing from them and re-downloading them 3 times but still the same issue. I'm running the Fanatec DD1 (driver 356) and have to run the in-game smoothing at 32 plus the FFB Interpolation at 6 just to get rid of the graininess in the FFB but the oscillations are still there. If I set the in-game FFB Smoothing to zero, just turning out of the garage makes my wheel oscillate like crazy.

I don't have the cars so can't offer specific advice, but to maybe eliminate file issues try moving your entire UserData folder to somewhere else (outside the rF2 folder, or you can simply rename it), then verify your rF2 files in steam so the required files are replaced, then run the game again. You'll need to detect/assign your controls again. See if that changes anything. You shouldn't need smoothing above 6 or so.

If that doesn't do anything, you can delete the new UserData folder and move yours back in (or rename it to the original name) so you get your settings and setups back. If it does help, you may want to consider copying some of your old files back in, but be careful with the .json files as they may have something that broke the FFB.
 
So I did what you said and it improved the oscillations by like half but after more testing I think the problem is I like to run my Steering Wheel Range at 200 degrees and it seems like this car's tyre model gets very jittery at low Steering Wheel Ranges unlike other cars. When I let the vehicle set the Steering Wheel Range (767 degrees) the oscillations go away and its less jittery. I guess imma have to compromise on my Steering Wheel Range.
 
@Jairo Leal

Only the fact of playing with "Vehicle set" checked allows to have a realistic FFB.
This is the most important FFB setting.

But if the NORMAL steering wheel rotation of the car is for example 1000°(fictif and for the example), and you want to play with 100°, you will have to play with a FFB gain (overall FFB of the wheel driver * FFB multi per car) 10 times lower.

It is important to play with a disabled FFB filter (or maximum 1).

The most important thing is not to have clipping, that is to say that it does not saturate so that the variations of the FFB remain faithful and well staged.
It must be set low (less than 100%). For example mine is for all cars at 65% and the "overall forces" of my T300 steering wheel is 100% (preferable).

Lastly, you need to set the minimum torque FFB, the lowest possible (for example mine is 2% which may vary dependings of "the overall forces", which allows you to feel the small bumps in the road without having excess vibrations in the steering wheel (use the Radical SR3 for this adjustment because the steering wheel vibrates a lot with).
 
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@Jairo Leal

Only the fact of playing with "Vehicle set" checked allows to have a realistic FFB.
This is the most important FFB setting.

But if the NORMAL steering wheel rotation of the car is for example 1000°(fictif and for the example), and you want to play with 100°, you will have to play with a FFB gain (overall FFB of the wheel driver * FFB multi per car) 10 times lower.

It is important to play with a disabled FFB filter (or maximum 1).

The most important thing is not to have clipping, that is to say that it does not saturate so that the variations of the FFB remain faithful and well staged.
It must be set low (less than 100%). For example mine is for all cars at 65% and the "overall forces" of my T300 steering wheel is 100% (preferable).

Lastly, you need to set the minimum torque FFB, the lowest possible (for example mine is 2% which car vary dependings of "the overall forces", which allows you to feel the small bumps in the road without having excess vibrations in the steering wheel (use the Radical SR3 for this adjustment because the steering wheel vibrates a lot with).

Thanks for the reply. From what I understand about direct drive wheels, like my DD1, you have to set the minimum torque FFB to 0% since there is so little resistance unlike belt driven wheels, but I'll play with it. I think I'm going to leave the Steering Wheel Range as 'Vehicle Set', like you said, and setup a faster steering rack in the garage menu.

Luckily my hands and arms give out way before I get clipping on the DD1, but I had a T300 for years before I got my DD1 and I know the feeling of trying to avoid clipping. My suggestion is avoid cars with downforce because with those you have to avoid clipping at high speed corners, where the tyre load is greatest, which makes it so that you get essentially no ffb at low speed turns (way less tyre load due to no downforce).
 
The Formula E cars feel very grainy and have horrible oscillations for me when turning, braking and at high speed. I've tried unsubscribing from them and re-downloading them 3 times but still the same issue. I'm running the Fanatec DD1 (driver 356) and have to run the in-game smoothing at 32 plus the FFB Interpolation at 6 just to get rid of the graininess in the FFB but the oscillations are still there. If I set the in-game FFB Smoothing to zero, just turning out of the garage makes my wheel oscillate like crazy.

Hi, I've got same trouble with my T500RS, not on this car for now but on other cars : in most cases, that happens when I take an official car and an non official track. It feels like I've got a flat spot on front tyres.
I can feel it as soon as quit pit stop. It's very annoying and awful to drive !
For example, I encounter that issue on all tracks (mod or official) with the Mercedes GT3, Bentley GT3, FISI 2012, most of mod cars, etc...
Nevertheless I've got a brand new PC with fresh installs and I don't understand what's happening.
Does anybody have same problem ?
Thanks.
 
Hong Kong track is unplayable with the latest update. Sun glare (from buildings) with Post Effects on Ultra and Session time on default with sunny weather is so big on start/finish straight that you can't see anything from around 150m to 50m brake mark. It covers almost whole cockpit view.
 
For information:
Formula E Test Track 2020 (Lester)

v2.10
- Renamed 'Formula E Test Track'
- Update to PBR Materials
- Updated Advertisements for Formula E 2020
------------------------
 
Houston we have a problem, I can't load the Hong Kong track, always crash to dekstop :/.
So, I unsuscribed the content from de workshop, my profile -> inventory and unsuscribe the Hong Kong track, I close the game and start the game again, the track is loaded (downloaded) again o_O. I bought the Pack (Formual E 2018 & Hong Kong) but I don't find now the pack for unsuscribed, how I can do that?
 
@GeraArg
You bought a Pack. You took the two items (HK & FE) out of the Pack to use and put the empty Pack in the rubbish bin.
You still have the two items but the Pack is just that, a package that has no use any more.
If you go to your Inventory you should also see the FE 2018 car.

For the crash to desktop, close rF2 then either rename the UserData folder or move it out of the Steam folder.
Verify the game files.
Restart rF2.
 
@GeraArg
You bought a Pack. You took the two items (HK & FE) out of the Pack to use and put the empty Pack in the rubbish bin.
You still have the two items but the Pack is just that, a package that has no use any more.
If you go to your Inventory you should also see the FE 2018 car.

For the crash to desktop, close rF2 then either rename the UserData folder or move it out of the Steam folder.
Verify the game files.
Restart rF2.
Thanks, i will try that now!!!!!!
 
@GeraArg
You bought a Pack. You took the two items (HK & FE) out of the Pack to use and put the empty Pack in the rubbish bin.
You still have the two items but the Pack is just that, a package that has no use any more.
If you go to your Inventory you should also see the FE 2018 car.

For the crash to desktop, close rF2 then either rename the UserData folder or move it out of the Steam folder.
Verify the game files.
Restart rF2.
News, now the game don't start, only open de laucher, click to offline and nothing happen :/
 
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