FIA Formula Two Williams JPH1B Released

I know there's not much FFB in this car. But a bit more resistance in the wheel would be great...

 

I would imagine Monaco is gentle on the brakes as the only high speed braking sequence is after the tunnel, for the rest of lap they cant really reach very high temps. Engines on the other hand get hot there.
Try monza for higher brake temps..

 

Thanks man, I'll give that a go.

 

I don't know, at Monaco brakes have not much time to recover and there are really many turns to brake, some even downhill, high speed braking is also after main straight, also at top of the hill there is quite lot of speed when you brake to left turn, then there is no rest for brakes until at the tunnel.

But I don't really know too much about open wheel cars and them brakes as even I do test them, I really can't drive them, cars I mostly use have brake fade everywhere

 

The truth is somewhere in between, its not that easy either because a lot of %time is spent braking.

 

Try Sebring to test the brakes. You have 3 major brake areas from high speed and some longer straights to cool things down. The track can be a little tricky, especially the first and last turns, but I am sure you will get used to it.

 

Are you guys using auto clutch when driving this car? You probably don't need to use clutch in a F2 car... I don't know if I need to turn it on when driving it, I can't notice any difference between leaving it off or turn it on, except a small snap sound when shifting.

 

Without autoclutch you have to pay attention to pedal release and have to be quick about putting the clutch in if you spin otherwise you stall the engine.

Now if ISI would just put in data for an engine getting flooded and a huge backfire when it first kicks off after being flooded.....

 

Wetting the plugs and need to dry them and replace one or two that were poor NGK's that died because of pure gasoline would add importance of being careful too. But isn't F2 fuel injected? There should be no flooding then if ecu is just half decend model.

 

It always seemed to me that theres basically no difference between autoclutch aid on/off both in rf1&2, except when launching.

 

The engine will load up on the 60's cars because of a forced stall and the engine being forced backwards in the spin. The new cars with all of the electronics should be immune to this for the most part, but I imagine there might be conditions that would allow it to happen.

 

Osella, if you are talking about driving the 370 or one of the other newer cars with sequential gear boxes, then you wouldn't really see much difference due to the clutch working semi-automatically with those gearboxes. For the 60's cars you should feel a large difference in how the shift works. With autoclutch the shift seems much harsher than when I use the clutch in manual.

 

In the player.ini file there is also an option called 'auto lift' or something similar which also has great influence on shifting by cutting power at upshifts, if I'm not mistaken

 

How is the modelling of the bitepoint btw? I don't have a set with clutch yet but just wondering, is there some sort of feedback through the wheel to feel it?

 

near as I can tell, bite point is going to be a matter of learning exactly how far you have to move the pedal to get the bite. I have felt nothing that would indicate the clutch is starting to grab until the tires start to spin or the car starts to move. My suggestion would be to set the sensitivity to where you have most of the movement associated with the last part of the pedal, should make things easier. By this I mean that very little clutch movement as you release the pedal with faster bite towards the end of travel. I would also set about a 10% to 15% deadzone on it to make it more like a real clutch.

 

The clutch (how you set off seems pretty good), atleast in the historic F2 car.
There is a point where the car starts moving and you can play with the throttle without affecting the cars speed, and a bit further the point where the clutch slip is too little and the car reacts to the throttle.

 

Hmm that sounds awkward..
Devs, how hard is it to introduce some steernoise/rumble when you are quite near the bitepoint?

I think it would be cool if we can set the bitepoint ourselves with a button which changes a curve (This function is not on the wheel on this particular car though, but maybe a calibration option in the menu, with a button for it in F1 cars for example )

 

I can tell for sure that my cars don't start to shake wheel when I lift clutch

What you need is a proper clutch pedal that has correct feel that you set to match current car, that I think would be proper way of doing it.

Current clutch in rF2 in my opinion is linear % of max clutch torque, there is really no bite point, it just adjusts clutch % linearly as you move your clutch pedal.

With cars lot of clutch torque and less of engine inertia it will be less % and % change to make engine stall than with clutches that have less torque capability and engines that have more inertia.

Vibrating wheel from things that are not related to steering are console game stuff, imo.

 

I know, but we can't feel how the car wants to 'go' in our rigs, so a slight rumble/vibration might be just enough to simulate that feeling

Having no specific bitepoint doesn't seem realistic either..
The wheel does all kinds of stuff which you don't feel in a real car because we're not in a real car in the first place (not everybody has proper motion rigs )

In RFT2011 for example, the wheel always twitches slightly when shifting, although this doesn't make sense to steering, it does convey a feeling of on/off power shifting into gear

 

Dear Tim, How do I apply this filter and is it advisable for all mods? I find that errant, spiky behaviour exists in all mods over bumps and spikes, but not to F2's level. FFB in F2 isn't up to the others' standards in terms of weight or feel and I understand from reading the thread that this is a G27 filtering issue. I'm relatively adept at configuring controller files but it would be nice to know and have a simple how to guide to setting up the G27 for us relative n00bs. I think I've got driving feel, but not necessarily the know how or the time to invest in beta testing one aspect of the sim. It's quite a pricey sim, but worth it when the hardware and software work together. Once again, not a criticism, a simple request to have a sticky or guide about this filtering issue for the G27 which by all accounts is inferior to a Fanatec, which I'll be getting once my G27 has had it... Thanks in advance