In the beginning i was amazed about the G25 with rfactor2 such nice and direct feedback i never get from another sim. But since i have the CSR wheel i play rather race07 than rf2. The reason is i cant get the wheel so calibrated that it feels as natural as the G25. Ive got the wheel now over 5 weeks so its no acclimatization now. The wheel sensitivity i have to put on the wheel to "470" and the sensitivity to "65%" to get something playable. I wont change the steering degrees because then it feels more worse. The FFb multiplier i have on 1,4 to feel better ffb. But the main problem is the wheel is so nervous while turning and if Iam changing the sensitivity its becoming better but it doesnt feel natural like in the g25. whats wrong with my options?
What's wrong? Apart the fact you use non-linear setting... everything is perfectly normal ;-) CSR is belt driven? I remember, previous Fanatec belt-driven wheels, like the GT3, were slow and mushy. Oh, and saying that you have wheel lock set at 470 deg. means nothing. Combination of wheel lock vs steering lock (steering ratio, in other words) is what you should tell.
What mod do you primarily run? I only do 60's F1 and like the feel of my CSR non-elite. Here are my settings in the controller file: Type="1" // Type of force feedback: 0=off 1=wheel 2=joystick 3=rumble/gamepad 4=custom Ignore controllers="0" // Do not use FFB on: 1=controller1, 2=controller2, 4=controller3, 8=controller4 (or add values to ignore multiple controllers, for example 15 ignores all) Skip updates="0" // Apparently some drivers can't handle a quick FFB update rate, so use this hack to skip the given number of updates (0=full update rate, 1=half, 2=one-third, 3=one-quarter, etc.) Steering effects strength="10000.00000" // -10000 to +10000, applies to all steering effects (torque, resistance, static spring, jolt, etc.) Off-road multiplier="0.15000" // Temporary test variable to reduce force feedback strength off-road (0.0 = zero FFB, 1.0 = full FFB) Steering torque filter="0" // Number of old samples to use to filter torque from vehicle's steering column (0-32, note that higher values increase effective latency) Steering torque per-vehicle mult="1.30000" // Per-vehicle steering column torque multiplier (this is a copy of the .CCH value) Steering torque zero-speed mult="1.00000" // def=0.45000 Multiplier at zero speed to reduce unwanted oscillation from strong static aligning torque Steering torque sensitivity="1.30000" // def=1.00000 Sensitivity curve applied to representable torques: 0.0=low 1.0=linear 2.0=high Steering torque extrap time="0.01500" // Time in seconds to extrapolate steering torque based on current change (Range: 0.001 to 0.050. To disable, set 'blend' to 0.0) Steering torque extrap blend="0.00000" // Higher blends of extrapolated value allows driver to feel torque changes even when actual torque exceeds 'input max' (0.0=disables, 1.0=max) Steering resistance type="1" // def=0 0=use damping, 1=use friction Steering resistance coefficient="0.20000" // def=0.10000 Coefficient to use for steering resistance. Range: -1.0 to 1.0 Steering resistance saturation="0.10000" // Saturation value to use for steering resistance. Range: 0 - 1.0 Steering spring coefficient="0.00000" // Static spring effect rate (-1.0 to 1.0) Steering spring saturation="0.10000" // Static spring effect peak force (0.0 to 1.0) Might be a change or 2 from default. Some of these are adjusted in-game. Rest of the Force Feedback section is unchanged. Notice I did change Steering resistance type to "1" which equals "friction" just because that seemed a more "natural" choice. Not even sure if it makes a big difference but I use it and am happy with my FFB. In the Fanatec Setup I have the wheel range set to 400 degrees, autocenter spring off, dampening strenght = 0.
I also think the CSR leaves alot to be desired sometimes. I experienced the best FFB in Forza 4, that should not be the case against rFactor 2
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the standard CSR wheel effectively identical in construction to the older Porsche wheels, apart from the wheel rim and perhaps some innards being lighter, giving it a slightly faster feel (according to an ISR review)?
They are identical internally from what I have seen and I doubt the new rim is much lighter tbh, but I could be wrong..... GT2 with a new wheel...
Thats my understanding too, GT3,GT2 and CSR (non-elite) are pretty much the same in internals. I really like my GT3RS - one of the first actually - and it doesn't feel mushy or slow anytime. I mostly drive RBR, but also rF2 gives me pretty much what i've hoped for.
Oh yeah, adding to my previous post... I forgot the wheel has setting that are adjusted on the wheel itself. I use: Sen = 400 (degrees, setable in the windows screen) FF = 100 (FFB strength, 100 = max) Sho = 0 (canned vibrations) Dri = 005 (so called drifting setting, which is a damper. 5 = no damping) Abs = OFF (canned vibrations simulating ABS vibration) Lin = 0 (Lineraity, 0 = linear, I adjust linearity in rF2 controls) Dea = 0 (dead zone) Spr = 0 (spring effect) Dpr = 0 (adjust damping sent by game, only used with console games)