Fanatec Wheel Base Drivers

Highlandwalker said:
These are my latest settings.
I have been using driver version 381 and Fanalab 1.53 without any problems so far, a couple of small changes to settings as listed below.

In game setting.
SMOOTHING - 2
Min FFB - 2.5%
Vehicle Set - Ticked

Wheel settings.
SEN - 900 (Had to set to this with the latest version of Fanalab to get the correct wheel rotation. If you are not using Fanalab AUTO will probably still work.)
FF - 100%
DRI - -3
FEI - 80
FOR - 60%
SPR - OFF
DPR - OFF
BLI - 85%
SHO - 100%
BRF - 50

Also a setting change in the Controller json file.
Set to 1 instead of 0
"Steering resistance type":1,
"Steering resistance type#":"0=use damping, 1=use friction",
This setting is not a huge difference but seems that you can feel slides better and when your loosing grip and also easier to save slides. This can be used with the older drivers as well not just the latest drivers. I have found this to be a worth while change.

I have also found that the FFB multiplier in the game settings is very important, if you set it too high the FFB drowns out a lot of fine detail. It's better set it to a low setting to start with and then increase it until you start to loose detail and then come back about .2 to .5. My typical settings range from .6 to .95, this is car dependant, average setting .65 to .8.

The 381 driver seems to make the wheel feel smoother without loosing detail with the settings above.
Hope some of you may find this useful.
Click to expand...
Turning the minimum FFB up really brings out more details in low speed corners and changing the value in the json file is really a game changer for me. Being able to feel the tyres slide more is a huge help for me and also adds a alot of immersion imo. Thanks!
 
Highlandwalker said:
These are my latest settings.
I have been using driver version 381 and Fanalab 1.53 without any problems so far, a couple of small changes to settings as listed below.

In game setting.
SMOOTHING - 2
Min FFB - 2.5%
Vehicle Set - Ticked

Wheel settings.
SEN - 900 (Had to set to this with the latest version of Fanalab to get the correct wheel rotation. If you are not using Fanalab AUTO will probably still work.)
FF - 100%
DRI - -3
FEI - 80
FOR - 60%
SPR - OFF
DPR - OFF
BLI - 85%
SHO - 100%
BRF - 50

Also a setting change in the Controller json file.
Set to 1 instead of 0
"Steering resistance type":1,
"Steering resistance type#":"0=use damping, 1=use friction",
This setting is not a huge difference but seems that you can feel slides better and when your loosing grip and also easier to save slides. This can be used with the older drivers as well not just the latest drivers. I have found this to be a worth while change.

I have also found that the FFB multiplier in the game settings is very important, if you set it too high the FFB drowns out a lot of fine detail. It's better set it to a low setting to start with and then increase it until you start to loose detail and then come back about .2 to .5. My typical settings range from .6 to .95, this is car dependant, average setting .65 to .8.

The 381 driver seems to make the wheel feel smoother without loosing detail with the settings above.
Hope some of you may find this useful.
Click to expand...

Hi,

thanks for sharing this setup, I'll try it :).
Quick question: did you have any issue with SPR and DPR set with the new driver? For me, after few laps the FFB dropped and the steering became jerky and button's red led were blinking, the only way was to turn off and on again the wheel base.

Thanks a lot
 
I do not have SPR and DPR switched on so I don't know about any issues with the 381 drivers. I haven't had any issues with 381 drivers or Fanalab 1.53 so far. I haven't had any of your issues so have no suggestions for a cure. Sorry for not being much help.
 
Thanks a lot for your feedback. Finally I spotted out that even if the issue appeared just after the FW update, it was a wiring problem, a bad contact of the 5V to the motor driver board :)
Happy New Year!
 
DRI at -3 was a value I settled on that felt OK to me. Here's the Fanatec explanation of what DRI does.

6.3.6 DRI (Drift mode) DRI range: -05 ... -01 OFF 001 … 005 DRI default: -05 The drift mode reduces the overall resistance of the wheel and lets you turn the wheel more easily. It almost works like power steering. It reduces the basic dampening of the wheel in the range of -05 to OFF and makes the wheel turn faster in the range of 001 to 005. If the value is set to values beyond -05 (or if the game’s FFB interferes with this feature) you might experience some oscillation. If that happens - reduce the value or turn DRI to “-05”. To change the used and active value press up or down direction at the FunkySwitchTM of the Fanatec Steering Wheel or turn the FunkySwitchTM clockwise / counter clockwise. “-05” to “-01” is a damper effect (natural damper), OFF is without damper effect and 001 or higher are with motor assistance to accelerate the Steering Wheel.
 
Thanks man! I also read somewhere that the purpose/use of DRI had changed recently. Not sure where I read that, but it was something official from Fanatec. I also note a lot people using it at OFF with a clubsport v2.5. So that makes me wondering what the ideal setting is.
 
I had a play around with DRI settings last night, I found having it set at 0 the steering is lighter at the lower FFB forces and is a sort of neutral feeling, you can possibly react quicker. Having it set to higher than 0 the wheel sort of wants revolve on it's own but not to a central position. I still went back to -3 because I like to feel a little bit of resistance in the wheel and you can possibly feel more detail but may not be able to react so quickly. Play around with the settings till you find what you like, while your playing with DRI setting do not change any other settings or you won't feel the difference the change in DRI setting is doing. Hope this is of help.
 
raising the min FFB up to whatever % makes flatspoting more pronounce
i have min FFB at zro for that reason
csl elite ps4 version user here
 
I think with the CSW-2.5 it doesn't feel quite so pronounced because of the different construction between the two bases. I find having a little min FFB adds a small amount of weight to the feel of the wheel and a little detail. It all comes down to personal choice.
 
Sorry to bump this thread, but I wonder what the difference is between FF (overal FFB strenght) and FOR (force effect strength)?
 
FFB is the max strength your wheel will produce and FOR is what you will feel through your wheel.
My settings are FFB-70% FOR-90%, these settings I have been using for sometime now and seem to work pretty good.
My other settings are:
DRI -1
FEI 80
SPR 50%
DPR 30%
In game settings:
Smoothing 3
Multiplier 75% (adjust per car)
Min torque 0.5%
These settings apply to Wheel Driver 439 and Fanalab 1-63, (may have different feel with earlier drivers).
Hope this will be helpful.
 
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I was always under the impression that smoothing was for older, cheaper wheels, I am surprised by the number of Fanatec users who use smoothing. One, if I recall correctly, was using a smoothing level of around 7 or 8, a number higher than what I used with Logitech and Thrustmaster wheels I had in the past. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but smoothing was for wheels that could not reproduce the ffb levels in rF2 and that caused sudden lurches or spikes in the FFB.
 
davehenrie said:
I was always under the impression that smoothing was for older, cheaper wheels, I am surprised by the number of Fanatec users who use smoothing. One, if I recall correctly, was using a smoothing level of around 7 or 8, a number higher than what I used with Logitech and Thrustmaster wheels I had in the past. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but smoothing was for wheels that could not reproduce the ffb levels in rF2 and that caused sudden lurches or spikes in the FFB.
Click to expand...
I use smoothing in combination the FEI setting, they sort of work together. If you turn down smoothing and then turn up the FEI it can some times feel a bit harsh but with out any extra detail, as you probably know FEI and smoothing controls the amount of detail transmitted to the wheel. The above settings seem to me to be a good compromise between detail without any harshness, play around with different combinations to get the feel you like. The biggest thing that caused the spikes and lurches with Logitech wheels was having min FFB in game set too high, I used a Logitech for quite awhile, I did use smoothing with my Logitech, can't remember what value. The latest Fanatec drivers do feel smoother now without loosing detail, I recommend installing the latest drivers if you haven't already.
 
Highlandwalker said:
FFB is the max strength your wheel will produce and FOR is what you will feel through your wheel.
My settings are FFB-70% FOR-90%, these settings I have been using for sometime now and seem to work pretty good.
My other settings are:
DRI -1
FEI 80
SPR 50%
DPR 30%
In game settings:
Smoothing 3
Multiplier 75% (adjust per car)
Min torque 0.5%
These settings apply to Wheel Driver 439 and Fanalab 1-63, (may have different feel with earlier drivers).
Hope this will be helpful.
Click to expand...

Indeed very helpful. I am very close to your settings, but I wonder about your SPR and DPR settings, the fanatec forum says these do not have an effect on the game. See below the recommended settings from Fanatec.


ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5

Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN AUT
FF 100
SHO 100
ABS User Preference
DRI -02
FOR 100
SPR 100*
DPR 100*
BRF User Preference
FEI 060

*SPR and DPR values have no effect.
 
GertjanD said:
Indeed very helpful. I am very close to your settings, but I wonder about your SPR and DPR settings, the fanatec forum says these do not have an effect on the game. See below the recommended settings from Fanatec.


ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5

Tuning Menu Settings:
SEN AUT
FF 100
SHO 100
ABS User Preference
DRI -02
FOR 100
SPR 100*
DPR 100*
BRF User Preference
FEI 060

*SPR and DPR values have no effect.
Click to expand...
Personally I thought the recommended settings from Fanatec are absolutely awful. I feel anybody using these settings isn't getting the best out of there wheel. I'm sure I can feel a difference when using SPR and DPR then again it might be my imagination, if it has no affect no harm done. If you are using the latest version of Fanlab (1-63) be sure you are using the latest wheel driver (439) because some features do not work correctly with some of the older drivers. I use roughly the same settings for all my games only with small adjustments here and there. I wish FEI had smaller increments of adjustment because 10% jumps makes a big difference in feel and that's why I use a combination of FEI and in game smoothing. Glad to be of help.
 
Highlandwalker said:
Personally I thought the recommended settings from Fanatec are absolutely awful. I feel anybody using these settings isn't getting the best out of there wheel. I'm sure I can feel a difference when using SPR and DPR then again it might be my imagination, if it has no affect no harm done. If you are using the latest version of Fanlab (1-63) be sure you are using the latest wheel driver (439) because some features do not work correctly with some of the older drivers. I use roughly the same settings for all my games only with small adjustments here and there. I wish FEI had smaller increments of adjustment because 10% jumps makes a big difference in feel and that's why I use a combination of FEI and in game smoothing. Glad to be of help.
Click to expand...
I have been stuck for days now trying to remember the simple little term when ffb exceeds 100%. It will come to me in a few days, like at lunch or something, but dang if I can remember the word now...anyone want to help an old fart????
 
davehenrie said:
I have been stuck for days now trying to remember the simple little term when ffb exceeds 100%. It will come to me in a few days, like at lunch or something, but dang if I can remember the word now...anyone want to help an old fart????
Click to expand...
Clipping?
 
So I've done a new windows install, with that I've only got the latest drivers for my CSL Elite base and BMW wheel. I used to have...
SEN,FF, SHO, ABS, DRI, FOR, SPR, DPR, BRF, and FEI, with S1, S2, S3 and so on.
But with the latest driver 439 & firmware 689 i only have...
SEN,FF and BRF. And no S1, S2, S3 and so on.
Any ideas on how to get all of the missing inputs back?


EDIT
So I found how to downgrade the firmware, all sorted.

SS
 
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