Hoping someone can give me some tips on reducing tyre wear, specifically in Clios as these are the cars I drive mostly. Did a 7 lap race tonight around mid ohio with a few friends, by the end of the race, my front left tyre was right down to 26% Friends were still up in the 80s. Needless to say, I was miles behind them. I dont know what it is, but I just cant seem to drive these without killing the tyres. Race settings were pretty standard. I dont know if its own to my wheel setup, car setup or a combination of both, or just my driving style. Its getting very frustrating. Any tips appreciated. View attachment 12137 These are my g27 settings, but also the wheel rotation is at 900 degress for RF2 in the profiler. View attachment 12138 These are my in game wheel settings. View attachment 12139 View attachment 12140 These two are my car setup, pretty much default i think, steering is set at 31.5 degrees. Ive tried other setups but still getting the same tyre wear.... Thanks all
The logitech settings wheel rotation makes no difference as long as you have VEHICLE SET chosen in the game menu, it will always be 900 for that car. You should adjust steering lock from the garage if you want less lock, which could help with tire wear as well. But the main thing with tire wear is really driving style, I haven't seen setup options make a lot difference in wear. Of course reducing front cambers (less negative) and casters will help some (I assume front wear is your problem). Anyway, if you drove a lot rFactor you have to re-learn how to drive in rF2, as you can't put such load on front tires anymore. Many sim racers have tendency to apply too much steering lock in high speed corners. Watching onboards from real drivers, they don't really do this as it would kill the tire. The second thing that has big impact on tire life is locking the brakes. You can survive a qualifying lap by locking up a lot, but in race you can't really drive with lockups if you want to save the tire. I learned this the hard way.
Listen to your tyres, sliding causes ALOT of heating and the current wear model wastly depend on this. Smooth is the key...
If your Tires last 7 laps until down to 26%, you definately are abusing them. Check the temperatures, in car favorably using the tires and damage MFD. Your tires should not exceed temperatures of around 130-140° C during cornering. Especially with front wheel driven cars, it is very important not to pinch the car. Make sure you get a clean apex and open up the steering as soon as possible. Any unecessesary lock during acceleration will put more heat into the tires. Same goes for turning in scrubbing the tires. When you use the tires / damage MFD during driving, you will get the idea very quickly though. I use that screen and tire noise ( cranked up to 150% ) to judge the current amount of load / grip / abuse. I also think that Mid Ohio has some off-camber corners, so you might want to check if you get really high temperatures just in those ones, meaning you will have to adapt your driving style a bit more with more delicate throttle control. As already said, Smooth is key. Smooth is fast. The smoother you juggle the tire load around from braking to cornerning back to acceleration, the more you will be able to get out of tires without abusing them and producing too much heat.
Another problem with abusing the tires is that once you start to abuse them, they overheat, and thus perform worse, this mean that if you are unaware that you are overdriving the tires, you will crank up the abuse level even more because the grip fades away. This is very clear with skyppies at Limerock, if you overdrive in the first two or three turns (where is quite easy to do so), you will probably spin in two or three laps, because the first time, tires are cold or warm and they will forgive you, but after some lap they will be hot, and if they overheat, they won't forgive you, until you let them cool down again.
bluenoes, would you be willing to upload a copy of your reply so we can confirm for sure it's your driving inputs (though by your description it is almost certainly the case). At least we could advise where your doing the most harm if it's not quite apparent for you. rfactor 2 automatically creates and saves a replay from your session on a track in separate files for a practice, quali and race you do (offline and online) in the :\rFactor2\UserData\Replays folder. The game keeps only 5 replays of the most recent sessions per track in storage and when you come to the 6th session of replay to be automatically saved it overwrites the 1st save (and cycles through 2nd, 3rd, and so on.....to maintain the 5 file save limit). You also want to run with spring and damper and centering at 0% (but you already have centering disabled which is good). These are not realistic and will negatively affect the ffb quality that is being sent to you from the game. I also wrote a detailed piece on how to setup your wheel which is crucial if you want the most out of ffb and yourself (driving performance potential wise). http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.p...ings-for-rFactor-2-Applies-to-ALL-wheel-users!
Pretty sure its your driving style, we have some members who suffered the same problem (Some going as far as accusing the admins of adding weight to their car) /sigh.. Turn your tyre noise up to max and your engine noise down to 30%.. listen to the tyres, if there squeeling your turning too much.. Definately open up the wheel after the apex as you drive out of turns.. FWD cars are both turning and the drive wheels, so its easy to put too much throttle and turning input in at the same time and spin them up unnecesarily (Overheat them).. The trick i find is dont brake too late turn in hard for the apex, then open the wheel as you start throttling on the way out... if you can tune the car for a slight oversteer it can help also to turn the car into the apex quicker. I run my profiler at 280degrees and ingame at 280 degree's matching.. and rarely turn my wheel past 70 degrees at most and 45 degrees around normally... The audio definately helps you to HEAR when your tyres are squeeling, your working them too hard.. Slow down a tad.. or Open up the steering a little.. (its easy to turn too much - the car doesnt actually turn anymore), but your tearing the tyres apart.
Thanks for all the replies guys, much appreciated Given me lots to try out and think about. I did suspect its down to my driving style, and have tried to change, but just seem embarrassingly slow when I do that. I think I need to try harder, probably just race offline until I can improve the tyre wear without looking like a complete novice online... Ripper, yes, no problem, will upload my replay. Might not be able to get to it until Sunday though as I wont be at home until then to get on the pc. Thanks all Andy
Maybe try less harder Sounds funny but it can often help, slowing down, don't push as hard. it will give you more breathing room on-track and that's a good way to discover smoother lines, different braking and exits. Its the trying harder part that causes you issues. and trust me, you're not alone in this, I had to basically re-learn to drive when porting over from rf1 to rf2. and the tires-story is (and probably always will be) the main culprit. As Comante said, once its at a certain point they wont be coming back soon. so you end up on the edge which usually means it can only go down, hardly ever up. If you spin somewhere or even have a hard drift, its even worse and you need to back off a long time before the tires become usable again. if you spin and continue racing, you will suffer the entire race until the checkered. In one of our recent events I had this, was losing places all the time after a big spin so decided to pit for new tires and i suddenly fully understood what is happening in the real F1 races, it felt exactly the same in that respect, no1 was able to defend vs my new tires as they could not push beyond and I could Setup tweaks are there to support your driving style and an aggressive tire-ruining style is only usable when you know you gonna pit soon anyways so it don't matter It will differ per mod of course, i would suggest taking a modern open wheeler like the F2 or FR35 to learn smooth lines, they kinda don't allow for anything else. Either you are super-smooth with them or you're lost in space.
I have the same probem with the Marussia, 7 laps, and the tires are kaput. Driving a F1 require a smoothness that is not easy to learn. I suppose to understand why F2 and FR3.5 exists.
IT's just that a car with so many HP will easily reach an excessive speed at the very moment you should already be thinking to slowing down smoothly.
It's very important to have a good setup in the FISI and Marussia. I find the default setups setup too high in front of the car causing alot of understeer. The F2 is actually done the same. I'm no expert though.
Just in case: Formula Renault 3.5 View attachment FR35 Essington Rik R2.svm Williams JPH1B F2 View attachment F2 JPH1B Croft R3.svm The F2 has some low speed issues with the torque which is fixed-ish in the setup. will work much better then default. Both setups can be used as base for other tracks.
Your target times are: FR35@ Essington (v1.03) , 1:24.369 (our fastest race lap) and 1:23.299 (for a qualifying lap) Williams F2@ Croft, 01:09.883 (R) and 01:08.772 (Q) Quali with medium rubber and low fuel and race undoubtedly full rubber medium fuel. No idea how fast you are by default, could well be seconds faster in no time, but if struggling on targets just remember we practise together for a week before even getting close to those times
Thank you, for giving me reference times, sadly IA can't be used as a paramter and it's not easy, unless you play online, to know real people times. I'm the kind of driver with a lot of stuff to learn and not enough spare time to learn it.
But i think you can then learn quicker when driver online. There you can ask other drivers for some advises
You'd be surprised how much you can learn just from watching your own driving. You can easily spot where you are making mistakes such as not using the entire track. Personally I enjoy racing against my own ghost to fine tune the racing line.
Yeah I agree, online will make you faster, sharing setups, tips, looking at their laps, turns, sector times, how others attack certain spots. Just sector times alone can tell you so much about what you need or even if you are on the wrong wing settings etc.
