[REL] EnduranceRacingX EGT by URD Update V2 July 2016!

Sounds great :) Any plans to Update the cockpit engine sounds? Btw - i really like the tire sounds they are the Best in rf2 so far imo so please stick with Them ! :)
 
Sounds great :) Any plans to Update the cockpit engine sounds? Btw - i really like the tire sounds they are the Best in rf2 so far imo so please stick with Them ! :)
Yes sounds will be updated for sure. Davide is working at the moment on Arthur Merlin sounds so once he will do those and we got cars ingame and working with physics corectly the sounds will be updated.
 
Yes sounds will be updated for sure. Davide is working at the moment on Arthur Merlin sounds so once he will do those and we got cars ingame and working with physics corectly the sounds will be updated.

Nice ! A bit off topic but are you going to Update the dtm sounds as Well? :)
 
Nice ! A bit off topic but are you going to Update the dtm sounds as Well? :)
Not at this moment. We have to see how it will go the progress for 2014. How the cars will look than as new Bayro will come. Sure is that T5 will get more updated just wich one and when we have to see. Some of our guys are limited to time.
 
Great car, Thank You.
Tried both white and black and both feels great, hard to decide which feels better , i think black was a bit easier to drive around for me. Like the welding on rollcage, just shadowing on it doesn't look right to me, in dips you have light while on tops there is shadow? Looks to me like normal channel flipped but that maybe reflection messing it up, that's why you getting that light on edges of rollbars so it kills occlusion from roof on upper parts of rollbars. Great work, I can't wait for Darche
 
Great car, Thank You.
Tried both white and black and both feels great, hard to decide which feels better , i think black was a bit easier to drive around for me. Like the welding on rollcage, just shadowing on it doesn't look right to me, in dips you have light while on tops there is shadow? Looks to me like normal channel flipped but that maybe reflection messing it up, that's why you getting that light on edges of rollbars so it kills occlusion from roof on upper parts of rollbars. Great work, I can't wait for Darche

Thx and thank you all for support and buying from us!

Ill try to implent chassis flex for next version to. Have to learn that now....
 
Haha, yeah that gear under there is funny one, ive edited that now a bit, is less visible and looks better now.

Any chance to make that gear rotate with the wheel? I realize it is present in the real car, but without movement it looks unrealistic... maybe even better to drop it?
 
Any chance to make that gear rotate with the wheel? I realize it is present in the real car, but without movement it looks unrealistic... maybe even better to drop it?
I was thinking about how to implent it, maybe i can come up with some idea in future and do that. The only way at this moment comes into my mind is by animation but that would look wrong as it wouldnt rotate like it should. Another just came into my mind to add it with driver animation. Maybe i can implent it that way somehow in future.
 
Just gave the 2 new cars a whirl around Sebring and the new Essington for several laps each. I'm liking the new physics. I think I prefer the white one a bit more, though to be honest, I don't see a huge difference between the two other than the heavier steering in the black car.

At first, I noticed the same exact braking issue I had with the original release with both of these, but as I drove them more (I also noticed this with the original last night) I found that the brakes just work a little bit faster than the ISI cars. With the Vette, for example, I can push the brake to the floor and it won't lock immediately, but with these they lock quickly...and then they slide. It just requires a bit more gentle braking pressure to avoid lock, and that is perfectly fine. So my driving style was mainly to blame for that. I'm beginning to appreciate the finesse required with the Bayro E5 at high-speed braking.

Overall, I like what I see...though I can't tell you which one is better. I would personally choose the white physics, just because of the lighter FFB, but whichever is more realistic is preferable. Maybe a balance strike between the two FFB levels would be perfect? I dunno, either way it is still a great car, and I'm loving it!

Enter you player.plr file in userdata\player Folder and edit this line "Damper Units="0" to that Damper Units="1" and you will see the true damping force values and the difference of both cars setups.
Only the black one allows real life settings but you have to change the standart setup to suitable settings. This is not so easy, by clicking only numbers for the dampin strength instead of true values in the rfactor2 garage menu.
 
Enter you player.plr file in userdata\player Folder and edit this line "Damper Units="0" to that Damper Units="1" and you will see the true damping force values and the difference of both cars setups.
Only the black one allows real life settings but you have to change the standart setup to suitable settings. This is not so easy, by clicking only numbers for the dampin strength instead of true values in the rfactor2 garage menu.

Uf i was wondering about that to. Thx and will make some better settings for white one.

Andregee are you sure those values are really the right ones actually? I mean are you sure those are real numbers? I know a car is licensed by ISI but that doesnt mean the numbers up there are the real car data to. Just saying becase i know that sometimes even licenses dont bring all the data you might think just becase something is licensed to be sold. And before you ask how i know that is simple as ive worked with game dev in past and still do sometimes and a license can sometime be a simple signed paper to with nothing more than a name. Not saying this is the case of ISIs camaro or any other car but we should be sure to before we do anything that is aparently right.
 
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Great mod so far. Do the black and the white differ setup or physics wise or both, besides the ffb.
IMO they are getting very snappy at the transition from corner enty to mid corner. The effect shows even more under minimal bracking input when breaking into corner. Adjusting break balance helps a little but it shows still the effect.
 
Uf i was wondering about that to. Thx and will make some better settings for white one.

Andregee are you sure those values are really the right ones actually? I mean are you sure those are real numbers? I know a car is licensed by ISI but that doesnt mean the numbers up there are the real car data to. Just saying becase i know that sometimes even licenses dont bring all the data you might think just becase something is licensed to be sold. And before you ask how i know that is simple as ive worked with game dev in past and still do sometimes and a license can sometime be a simple signed paper to with nothing more than a name. Not saying this is the case of ISIs camaro or any other car but we should be sure to before we do anything that is aparently right.


Given how some of the ISI cars drive, I'd say it'd not be surprising if they had to estimate values for some things.
 
Uf i was wondering about that to. Thx and will make some better settings for white one.

Andregee are you sure those values are really the right ones actually? I mean are you sure those are real numbers? I know a car is licensed by ISI but that doesnt mean the numbers up there are the real car data to. Just saying becase i know that sometimes even licenses dont bring all the data you might think just becase something is licensed to be sold. And before you ask how i know that is simple as ive worked with game dev in past and still do sometimes and a license can sometime be a simple signed paper to with nothing more than a name. Not saying this is the case of ISIs camaro or any other car but we should be sure to before we do anything that is aparently right.

I don´t know the absolut values of the "E5", but compared to Isi´s camaro and and the Corvette they have to be near to them because the weight of These cars is not so different. I drive a lot of Simulations, GTR2, Race07, the Power & Glory 3.1 Mod with Setting from real Life given to the mod and and so on and in all of them the Rebound is typically stronger than the bump like in real life. That has one reason. The bump Setting describes the force which is necessary to compress the damper with the spring in N/m/s. With a higher Setting, the damper is slowing down the deflection so that compression travel is shorter for example 3 inches.
But now the very important Thing, what People often down understand. The Rebound value describes not the force of the Rebound for itself, but the force that is necessary to decrompress the spring.
I higher value means that the damper works stronger against the Rebound force of the spring while many People Thing a higher value means a stronger Rebound force.
So if you have a Bump Setting for example of 5000 N/m/s and a rebóund Setting of 3000N/m/s, the Rebound force is stronger than the bump force, what causes for example in 2 inches bump and 4 inches Rebound. the spring makes a faster Rebound with a longer way than compression. That makes the car very unstable, like a human is jumping on a spring Trampoline, he jumps higher and higher. But The function of a damper is the to smooth the Bodywork and so the Rebound has to be softer than the bump, adjusted by higher Rebound Settings. I know it from true life racers like Tim Schrick and from some race engineers
 
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Really nice write up Andregee. Just wanted to add that "technically" there's only one "optimal" bump and rebound setting for a given spring controlling a given weight. I use a little calculator program to get the base lines (got it from NoGrip a while back).
As far as the physics of the Bayro, I'm also a fan of v1.0. Especially after I tinkered a Lil and "swapped" over the dampers from the ISI vette. I got all the confidence you'll get it all sorted tho Ales. Again great job so far and I can't wait for the remaining cars.
 
Really nice write up Andregee. Just wanted to add that "technically" there's only one "optimal" bump and rebound setting for a given spring controlling a given weight. I use a little calculator program to get the base lines (got it from NoGrip a while back).
As far as the physics of the Bayro, I'm also a fan of v1.0. Especially after I tinkered a Lil and "swapped" over the dampers from the ISI vette. I got all the confidence you'll get it all sorted tho Ales. Again great job so far and I can't wait for the remaining cars.

The fast bump and Rebound Settings are depending of the track. Is it very bumpy, you will Need softer fast bump Settings to compensate it. The fast Rebound Setting is depending on the lenght of the bumpy part of the road. Is it only a short one you can set it to higher values like 3000n/m/s fast bump and 6000/n/m/s fast Rebound to get a stable car ,(but not to high for example 10000n/m/ otherwise the wheel hangs in the air through the to slighly decrompression) the but if the bumpy part is a longer one with many bumps one after another, than you have to set the fast Rebound to a lower value like 4000 or 5000n/m/s because the decompression were to slight to bring the car in its Basic Position and after a lot of bumps the car would hit the surface of the road. For example, imagine what will happen when the bumps bring the spring and the damper for example mulitple to 3 inches of deflection and only 2 inches of decrompression in the same time. After a lot of Bumps you will loose the whole spring delfection. But even in this case the Rebound value has to be a higher value than the bump value. Otherwise the car will begin to jump over the the bumps by loosing contact to the road.It is a science to get the perfect values but Motec I2 pro might help if you know how to handle it.
 
@Andregee will make some more stuff for testing in next version. I hope i get the chassis flex done to. Got something but have to test that more.


Take it easy.
The black car is fine. People can set the damping values to the same Setting like the White car brings with it. By whatever means you will Change the physics, the mainpoint is that we will have the wide range of values to set, so that everybody can use his prefered Settings. Than there is no Need to discuss, what is right or wrong.
 
The fast bump and Rebound Settings are depending of the track. Is it very bumpy, you will Need softer fast bump Settings to compensate it. The fast Rebound Setting is depending on the lenght of the bumpy part of the road. Is it only a short one you can set it to higher values like 3000n/m/s fast bump and 6000/n/m/s fast Rebound to get a stable car ,(but not to high for example 10000n/m/ otherwise the wheel hangs in the air through the to slighly decrompression) the but if the bumpy part is a longer one with many bumps one after another, than you have to set the fast Rebound to a lower value like 4000 or 5000n/m/s because the decompression were to slight to bring the car in its Basic Position and after a lot of bumps the car would hit the surface of the road. For example, imagine what will happen when the bumps bring the spring and the damper for example mulitple to 3 inches of deflection and only 2 inches of decrompression in the same time. After a lot of Bumps you will loose the whole spring delfection. But even in this case the Rebound value has to be a higher value than the bump value. Otherwise the car will begin to jump over the the bumps by loosing contact to the road.It is a science to get the perfect values but Motec I2 pro might help if you know how to handle it.

Yea your absolutely right Andregee. My post was just a great generalization of how dampers work with a given spring. Even slow bump and rebound depend on driver style, track layout and the rest of the setup options. What i was trying to imply is that you cant just pull numbers out of the sky. A damper controls the spring but the spring controls the car. Thus a car with a given overall weight and a given weight distribution has only a certain range of usable spring weight. Furthermore each spring in that spectrum has a given range of dampers that can work with it. In your example of a bumpy track the first thing that would need to be changed would be going to a softer spring. And as soon as you change the spring you would change the dampers to now better control that spring in the given circumstance. No matter how great a range of dampers your have, IMO, you would never be able to use the same springs at Sebring that you use at Silverstone.

That was also the main problem i had with the v1.0 Bayro. Not only, as you stated, the Bump and Rebound settings didn't work with each other but overall i found them to b too much damping. I think maybe that was the braking problem some experienced, just not enough weight transfer. It also affected the overall handling. The car felt glued to the track but with a narrow margin for error. Also over long runs i imagine it would really chew up the tires.

BTW now that im home here's a link to the tool i was speaking of http://www.nogripracing.com/forum/showthread.php?t=278913. JTBO does a great job talking about this more in depth and explains it a lot better then i ever could.
 
This all sounds nice and true - theoretical.

Natural the fast rebound should be most often higher than bumps. But mostly doesnn't mean allways.
You can't simply take the Values from a car with equal weight and assign it to all other cars with similar weight.

A Corvette is not a BMW. Both based on absolutely different chassis, physics, weight distribution, downforce and so on.
There is no need to argue about individual setup values. First and foremost we need a correct physics, than we can talk about setup values.

What i read here, sounds more like put the cart before the horse.

Myself normally prefer higher rebounds. But this makes the black car in no way more realistic for me, just because the given setup values suggest this.
And if the pure physics from both cars are really different, than its not like "simply change damper settings to the white one"
 
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