I will soon receive a GT DD PRO (the same as the Fanatec CSL DD). I'm not interested in having a specifically "PLEASANT" FFB, but rather as "REALISTIC" as possible. I'm starting to find out about each Fanatec setting (I'm familiar with in-game settings/clipping etc). Whether for my G27 a long time ago or for my T300 currently, I deactivate (0%) the spring and damper parameters in the Thrusmaster Control Panel, with very good results (really). This way of doing things is well known for rFactor 2 and Thrustmaster. My question is as follows : For the SPRING and DAMPER parameters present in Fanalab, do you advise me to put 0 ? I guess that's the thing to do but your opinions would be very helpful. If you set the Damper to 0, what value do you set to NATURAL DAMPING (different parameter). Last element on which I doubt for the moment, the FF SCALE : peak or linear ?? I haven't understood the difference so far. Thank you very much !!
I put 0 in SPRING and DAMPER with all my Fanatec wheels, CSW v1, v2 and CLS DD, never had a problem with that. For Natural Damping I put 20%-30%, and FF Scale PEAK. I don't know exactly the differences but with LINEAR you are limited to 6 Nm, and with PEAK 8 Nm. For the moment the Natural Friction put 0 because there are a problem with FFB on restart. Fanatec will release a new firmware to solve it, but they take their time. Greetings
Hi. If you have time, I would be interested in having your complete settings for the CSL DD. Thanks for your post anyway.
After reflection, I think (think) that the most realistic settings to properly simulate the steering column are the following, these are the ones I intend to try (I could be wrong) : 1) INGAME : - Software / Custom / 1440 degrees. - FFB Strength (ingame setting) = +55% To avoid rFactor 2 software clipping but also hardware clipping related to the peak settings in fanatec software). - FFB multi (per car setting) : majority of cars = 100% and ajustable. - Min force = 0%. 2) DRIVER WHEEL : - SENSITIVITY = Manual / 1440 degrees. - FORCE FFB = 100 - FF SCALE = PEAK - NATURAL DAMPING = 0 - NATURAL FRICTION = 5 - NATURAL INERTIA = 0 - INTERPOLATION = 0 (1 you lose a lot of details really) - FORCE EFFECT INTENSITY = 100 - FORCE = 100 - SPRING = 0 - DAMPER = 0 I will say in a few days in the forum if it seems REALISTIC. Cheers.
Ok well I tested. It's awesome. I compared from one second to the other the setting recommended by Fanatec (setting 1 on my steering wheel) with mine (setting 2 on my wheel). I realized that interpolation on 1 (maximum) is much better than 0 (off). Other than that I kept everything. These settings are fantastic. I find nevertheless that the CSL DD (GT DD PRO which is identical, in my case) lacks 25 or 33% of torque for my taste. (I am forced to put the multi FFB into play at 70% when I would have liked to put it at 60% for the majority of cars to avoid software clipping. Of course FFB min force = 0%, no smooth on rFactor 2. 8 nm input in both controller files as well as 1 (100%) off-road multiplier.
Sublime, very big thank you pilAUTO with this setting the caterham on WorldWideRaceway becomes fantastic (csl dd 8nm)
EDIT : Thanks to @Lazza , I understood that in terms of clipping FFB multi (ingame setting) and FFB strengh (ingame setting) are not at all equivalent. So changes in this post. I will check soon but I think its correct now. Well I think after 6 weeks I found my final settings. I had thought a lot about the settings to use before receiving the steering wheel, 6 weeks after the settings are almost identical but I validate them 100%. Do not hesitate to use them, I find them fantastic (realistic) : 1) INGAME : - Software / Custom / 1440 degrees. - FFB Strength (ingame setting) = +55% To avoid rFactor 2 software clipping but also hardware clipping related to the peak settings in fanatec software). - FFB multi (per car setting) : majority of cars = 100% and ajustable. - Min force = 0%. 2) DRIVER WHEEL : - SENSITIVITY = Manual / 1440 degrees. - FORCE FFB = 100 - FF SCALE = PEAK - NATURAL DAMPING = 0 - NATURAL FRICTION = 5 - NATURAL INERTIA = 0 - INTERPOLATION = 0 (1 you lose a lot of details really) - FORCE EFFECT INTENSITY = 100 - FORCE = 100 - SPRING = 0 - DAMPER = 0
I don't think there's anything to be gained by running the FFB strength below 100%. Should really leave it on 100 (or -100 for wheels that require it) and play with the other settings. This FFB strength doesn't contribute to, or reduce, clipping in any way and isn't shown in FFB output telemetry. If you think a wheel should be less than full strength (to avoid hardware clipping, power/temperature issues, etc) it's probably best to do that in the driver settings (and leave games on full strength), and I doubt (?) that applies to this DD wheel anyway. To be clear: FFB strength will not affect software FFB clipping at all. If the majority of cars required, say, 75% vehicle specific mult on your previous wheel to reduce clipping, they'll need the same on this wheel. That software clipping happens in the game and is completely independent of the wheel you're using. The only wheel consideration is how much clipping you might tolerate in order to get some decently-strong forces - again with a DD you're generally ok to further reduce clipping, as you can still produce enough cornering force. Run FFB strength on 100, and adjust the vehicle mult to minimise/tune clipping.
Hi @Lazza ! I'm not sure we understood each other : I put the FFB force in the driver at 100%. In the driver. In the game there are two strength adjustment values, I say in the game : 1) A global value, which I was talking about and which I systematically put at 70% or -70%. 2) One value per car called FFB multi. The question is : Is it the same to put 70% in the overall strength of the game and 120% of FFB multi (=84%) // VS // 100% in the overall strength of the game and 84% of FFB multi (=84%). So tell me if we understood each other correctly (or not) and if not, tell me if these two things are not equivalent. By putting 70% overall ingame strength and 100% multi FFB, I thought I was safe from most car clipping. Anyway, thank you for your comments and advice.
I know this is confusing, because it's hard not to use the same name for 3 different things! So, I'll talk about 3 settings for wheel FFB: Driver Force (windows / wheel software) FFB strength (in rF2, Calibration, the global value) FFB Mult (same screen, vehicle specific setting) Calculation flow: Physics produces raw steering column torque Value gets scaled in accordance with several parameters, including steering torque capability, steering torque sensitivity, and FFB Mult (3). This is where software clipping happens, and can be adjusted. The value is now multiplied by FFB strength (2) and sent by the game to the wheel driver. The value is multiplied by Driver Force (1) This final output, which the wheel uses, can produce hardware clipping depending how the wheel behaves. If the combination of json parameters and FFB Mult (3) clips the FFB signal, reducing FFB strength (2) and/or Driver Force (1) will only make the final output feel weaker, without eliminating the clipping at all. So to answer your question: no, they are not equivalent. Recommendations: FFB strength (2): 100%, or -100%, based on the wheel polarity (correct or wrong - not a tuning item) Driver Force (1): 100% if the wheel produces a linear force curve at full strength and won't hardware clip. Some suggest 95% for the T300 for example. FFB Mult (3): literally set per vehicle, but generally around 70% to reduce clipping for most cars and mid-range wheels. User preference is a factor in FFB Mult, and depending on wheel strength. Weak gear-driven wheels might feel better with stronger forces despite more clipping, very strong DD wheels might favour lower forces to completely eliminate routine software clipping as they still produce strong (and clean) forces. In the past when you've discussed FFB strength and clipping, I assumed you were adjusting FFB Mult and hopefully advised the same. Leave FFB strength on 100/-100%. Update: this has now changed slightly, as of Dec 2022. See below.
I modified a trick according to the relevant remark of Lazza, I will test tomorrow but I think it is better now. See above.
So I test and yeah I don't have anymore clipping by doing this. I clearly had clipping in putting 70% on FFB strength INGAME + 70% FFB multi with BTCC Toyota (feeling no telemetry). Now no clipping (feeling no telemetry) with FFB strengh 100% + 50% FFB multi with BTCC Toyota. In terms of "global force" its approximately the same, but best feeling because low or no clipping. Thanks again Lazza! My settings so which are very good, reason why I share : 1) INGAME : - Software / Custom / 1440 degrees. - FFB Strength (ingame setting) = +55% To avoid rFactor 2 software clipping but also hardware clipping related to the peak settings in fanatec software). - FFB multi (per car setting) : majority of cars = 100% and ajustable. - Min force = 0%. 2) DRIVER WHEEL : - SENSITIVITY = Manual / 1440 degrees. - FORCE FFB = 100 - FF SCALE = PEAK - NATURAL DAMPING = 0 - NATURAL FRICTION = 5 - NATURAL INERTIA = 0 - INTERPOLATION = 0 (1 you lose a lot of details really) - FORCE EFFECT INTENSITY = 100 - FORCE = 100 - SPRING = 0 - DAMPER = 0
Hi @pilAUTO, I ended up with a setup like yours, almost all Fanatec driver values to 0. FFB seems more raw and direct to me. I have FFB multi from 65% to 70% because sometimes it gets clipped, and filter/smooth to 3. I give Natural Friction 5% a chance as you say, surely the steering wheel will not feel so artificially loose/light. For the steering degrees, I changed from 1440º to 900º, on the steering wheel and in the Game Software/custom setting. For some reason 900º and 270º wheel lock in the car setup feel different to me than 1440º and 270º and I have to change to 240º to get roughly the same degrees/feel. Do you know if this is normal behavior? I have to double check all my saved car setups to see the value for the degree of steering, it could be that I saved it when it had values greater than 900º.
Quick update for my post above: FFB Strength doesn't need to be 100% anymore, can be less to act as a "lower clipping" starting point. So for pilAUTO's settings, you could put FFB strength on 70% and start with each car's FFB Mult on 100%, as that's equivalent to vice-versa. Just might mean fewer - and smaller - vehicle-specific adjustments to reduce clipping.
Hi I'm testing those settings but I'm facing a weird issue. My settings in the game : My settings in Fanatec : But when I'm in the car (Porsche Cayman) from LFM, the steering wheel angle does not look the same : My steering wheel is angled 90° but in the game it's not 90° To get the same angle between my wheel and the game, I have to change the value in Fanatec to 440°
Individual cars may not work correctly. Doesn't mean your settings are wrong, but you may choose to adjust them for those cars.
I think last adjustment Goal is to avoid hardware clipping in peak mode, in avoiding 100% the software clipping. FFB strengh in rFactor 2 now set at 55%.
