120% is too much for me I use most of the time 30%, and 65% for the Caterham, if you use 120% there is an issue with the car....no way you should use 120% with a SC2 pro at 100% in the TD panel. And jolt with 0.5 doesn't change anything for me, or not really noticeable. Even the paid DLC may have some bugs, and this free car has probably somethig weird in the FFB.
Yeah, sorry - "Rumblestrip Magnitude".... My full FFB section from the controller.json is: Code: "Force Feedback":{ "Brake effects on steer axis":0, "Brake effects on steer axis#":"0 = Brake effects on brake axis, 1 = brake effects on steering axis.", "Brake effects strength":-10000, "Brake effects strength#":"-10000 to +10000, applies to all brake effects (force, vibration, static spring, etc?)", "Brake spring coefficient":-1, "Brake spring coefficient#":"Static spring effect rate (-1.0 to 1.0)", "Brake spring saturation":1, "Brake spring saturation#":"Static spring effect peak force (0.0 to 1.0)", "Clutch effects on steer axis":0, "Clutch effects on steer axis#":"0 = Clutch effects on clutch axis, 1 = brake effects on steering axis.", "Clutch effects strength":-10000, "Clutch effects strength#":"-10000 to +10000, applies to all clutch effects (force, vibration, static spring, etc?)", "Clutch spring coefficient":0.2, "Clutch spring coefficient#":"Static spring effect rate (-1.0 to 1.0)", "Clutch spring saturation":1, "Clutch spring saturation#":"Static spring effect peak force (0.0 to 1.0)", "G920_workaround":false, "G920_workaround#":"Workaround for Logitech G920 firmware bugs ... may need to turn this off after firmware update if it gets fixed.", "Gearbox effects on steer axis":0, "Gearbox effects on steer axis#":"0 = Gearbox effects on gearbox 'axis', 1 = brake effects on steering axis.", "Gearbox effects strength":-10000, "Gearbox effects strength#":"-10000 to +10000, applies to all gearbox effects (force, vibration, static spring, etc?)", "Gearbox spring coefficient":0, "Gearbox spring coefficient#":"Static spring effect rate (-1.0 to 1.0)", "Gearbox spring saturation":1, "Gearbox spring saturation#":"Static spring effect peak force (0.0 to 1.0)", "Ignore controllers":0, "Ignore controllers#":"Do not use FFB on: 1=controller1, 2=controller2, 4=controller3, 8=controller4, 16=controller5, 32=controller6 (or add values to ignore multiple controllers, for example 63 ignores all)", "Jolt magnitude":0.5, "Jolt magnitude#":"How strong jolts from other cars (or walls) are. Suggested Range: -2.0 to 2.0.", "Off-road multiplier":0.2, "Off-road multiplier#":"Temporary test variable to reduce force feedback strength off-road (0.0 = zero FFB, 1.0 = full FFB)", "Other spring coefficient":0.2, "Other spring coefficient#":"Static spring effect rate (-1.0 to 1.0) for any other FFB-capable controllers", "Other spring saturation":0.7, "Other spring saturation#":"Static spring effect peak force (0.0 to 1.0) for any other FFB-capable controllers", "Rumble strip magnitude":0.3, "Rumble strip magnitude#":"How strong the canned rumble strip rumble is. Range 0.0 to 1.0, 0.0 disables effect.", "Rumble strip pull factor":0, "Rumble strip pull factor#":"How strongly wheel pulls right\/left when running over a rumble strip. Suggested range: -1.5 to 1.5.", "Rumble strip update thresh":0.05, "Rumble strip update thresh#":"Amount of change required to update rumble strip effect (0.0 - 1.0)", "Rumble strip wave type":3, "Rumble strip wave type#":"Type of wave to use for vibe: 0=Sine, 1=Square, 2=Triangle, 3=Sawtooth up, 4=Sawtooth down.", "Steering effects strength":-10000, "Steering effects strength#":"-10000 to +10000, applies to all steering effects (torque, resistance, static spring, jolt, etc.)", "Steering resistance coefficient":0.1, "Steering resistance coefficient#":"Coefficient to use for steering resistance. Range: -1.0 to 1.0", "Steering resistance saturation":0.1, "Steering resistance saturation#":"Saturation value to use for steering resistance. Range: 0 - 1.0", "Steering resistance type":0, "Steering resistance type#":"0=use damping, 1=use friction", "Steering spring coefficient":0, "Steering spring coefficient#":"Static spring effect rate (-1.0 to 1.0)", "Steering spring saturation":0.1, "Steering spring saturation#":"Static spring effect peak force (0.0 to 1.0)", "Steering torque capability":25, "Steering torque capability#":"The maximum torque capability of the wheel (in Nm, obviously)", "Steering torque extrap blend":0, "Steering torque extrap blend#":"Higher blends of extrapolated value allows driver to feel torque changes even when actual torque exceeds 'input max' (0.0=disables, 1.0=max)", "Steering torque extrap time":0.015, "Steering torque extrap time#":"Time in seconds to extrapolate steering torque based on current change (Range: 0.001 to 0.050. To disable, set 'blend' to 0.0)", "Steering torque filter":0, "Steering torque filter#":"Number of old samples to use to filter torque from vehicle's steering column (0-32, note that higher values increase effective latency)", "Steering torque minimum":0, "Steering torque minimum#":"Minimum torque to apply in either direction to overcome steering wheel's 'FFB deadzone' caused by friction", "Steering torque per-vehicle mult":1, "Steering torque per-vehicle mult#":"Per-vehicle steering column torque multiplier (this is a copy of the .CCH value)", "Steering torque sensitivity":1, "Steering torque sensitivity#":"Sensitivity curve applied to representable torques: 0.0=low 1.0=linear 2.0=high", "Steering torque zero-speed mult":0.3, "Steering torque zero-speed mult#":"Multiplier at zero speed to reduce unwanted oscillation from strong static aligning torque", "Test_workaround":false, "Test_workaround#":"Workaround for apparent driver CTD on release", "Throttle effects on steer axis":0, "Throttle effects on steer axis#":"0 = Throttle effects on throttle axis, 1 = throttle effects on steering axis.", "Throttle effects strength":-10000, "Throttle effects strength#":"-10000 to +10000, applies to all throttle effects (force, vibration, static spring, etc?)", "Throttle spring coefficient":0.3, "Throttle spring coefficient#":"Static spring effect rate (-1.0 to 1.0)", "Throttle spring saturation":1, "Throttle spring saturation#":"Static spring effect peak force (0.0 to 1.0)", "Type":1, "Type#":"Type of force feedback: 0=off 1=wheel 2=joystick 3=rumble\/gamepad 4=custom", "Use thread":true, "Use thread#":"Use a separate thread to issue FFB commands which may block with some drivers" },
my Rumble strip was at 0 but yours at 0.3 ...... I really think there is an issue if you are forced to use 120%.... no way a SC2 pro should use 120% in rF2. I admit the FFB should be stronger and and more alive at 120%, but there is an issue in this free car about the FFB.... As a free car I have no expectation, but with all the others cars I'm at 30%-60%, so no way for this one it has to be used at 120%, it's finally a issue I think.
@MileSeven rumble strip magnitude is a canned effect left over from rF1, and is disabled in all controller profiles. You have turned it on. You should turn it off (0.0). Kerb interactions are modelled physically. @AlexHeuskat This car has a nominal max torque of 9.5 Nm and generates only about 5.5 during cornering. This is unusual for rF2 cars, where those two are normally quite close and you'd run FFB Mult around 0.75 to reduce clipping. The indycars are similar to this as well, above 1.0 is fine. While this may be less common, it's not an issue. The FFB Mult should be adjusted to suit the car and personal preferences (and your wheel). Oooops... @AlexHeuskat sorry, all that obviously isn't relevant for that wheel. 2 mins after posting I realised which wheel it was, and said to myself, "You stupid ****, that setting has no effect..." (don't worry though, I'm used to my self-admonishment)
Ta. Just noticed that all my FFB effects are negative 10k whereas all of the ones in the stock SC2 Pro.JSON that ships with rf2 these days are positive 10k. Just tried the car with both profiles and not a lot of difference, actually - but I'm probably leaning towards the stock one... It's subtle in the Caterham though - not transformational! I need to try other cars I'm familiar with too though...
The only 10k value doing anything is the steering effects, and that's either right or wrong. The rest of those are disabled.
That’ll make it easy to test, thanks! (Away from my rig now - need to double check that *was* the active JSON….)
I had a spare few hours last night so I gave the Caterham a really good crack around Gateway, switching between high and low caster. It's amazing how much one change to the steering geometry can really alter the way the car feels and handles. I'll need to do many more 'reality checks' before I can draw any proper conclusions, but so far the lower caster is proving slightly faster. However I can still optimise the lap better so it'll be a while before I can really try to iron out the variables. I feel like with the low caster, the car feels way more like a front wheel drive. I can get on the throttle very hard through the mid corner (practically flooring it right after braking), and the rear end seems quite planted and wants to stay inline with the front end. I think so far the only reason I am faster with the lower caster is because I can pick up the throttle earlier because I can trust the rear end more. But, with the low caster, when the rear end goes, it REALLY goes and I find myself catching a slide a bit later and doing a huge pendulum type slide. With the higher caster, the initial solidity to the ffb is really reassuring. Found it easier to push hard under braking. However, mid corner throttle application seemed to upset the rear more and make it a bit harder to keep the rear end tidy, as it wanted to step out and begin overtaking the front. It's almost like the force from the steering geometry is encouraging the rear end to be at a slip angle. Anyway, all slightly pointless information, as I think once I reach the next level of the limit and do more reality checks, my perceptions of what's happening will change. The main thing is, this Caterham is such a rewarding and fun car to hustle around a track. It takes quite a bit of brute force to get the most out of it in one area, and then a split second later you've got to finesse it. All the while timing and executing gear changes right. It's quite the challenge!
You are right the only way to use 120% is to use a high reconstruction filter setting, and I admit, this filter can do miracle for specific cars with a very low ffb like the Caterham or Radical sr3xx if we raise the ffb very high. My preference is at 100% for the caterham and 90% for the Radical sr3xx. I don't feel a noticeable loss of details with a high reconstruction filter setting, and no noticeable added lag. I'm amazed about simucube, there is always a setting to make the FFB like we want. With a very strong FFB, the static reduction filter can do miracle too, it's the opposite situation. This wheel is amazing and works very nicely with rF2.
I tried setting to 720 degrees within the rF2 settings pages and it made no difference, it remains 10 degrees short when I turn my wheel 90 degrees. The only way I could get it correct is to set max wheel rotation to 720 degrees within Fanalab, the problem with that it will make every other car in rF2 incorrect. The only I way could make this work is to have a separate profile just for the Caterham and Mini in Fanalab. It's not problem of rF2 settings or wheel software, the problem is with in the Caterham Mini cars.
The problem for me is solved when I change the rotation angle of the wheels in the ***SETUP*** (setup, not rF2 settings). But that does not satisfy me, I prefer to put the original setup with 880 or 900 degrees approximately and visually fix the steering wheel in the parameters. This is a workaround that for me works, but it's not satisfying.
Ultra Low Latency is worth playing with too. “Beano” - who I understand helped (in)formally Granite Devices test/develop the hardware - posted a thread on their forum ages ago explaining why ULLM isn’t the ‘nasty’ you might initially think. I’ll have to look out my settings - in VR, the virtual wheel appears to be exactly synced to my hand movements and (as with the real thing) I can keep at least one hand on the wheel at all times (handy as I race with an F1 style rim and can’t shuffle to achieve extra lock). The VR wheel may be slightly out of sync with the real wheel - but it’s not enough to break immersion even if it’s there.
I don't know how you configure it, but in VR my steering wheel turns the same as the car's and I put more degrees of 540° if it's nothing real in the Caterham cars of the official racing videos, or at least , I do not see that they rotate even 450 ° with a maximum of 540 °
You were right. I see this issue in the Mini and the Caterham, I just hadn't noticed. Tried the Porsche 911 GT3 R and it seems to work well there. This doesn't affect FFB though. It will just make it different to drive the car than IRL because you have to steer the wheel a bit more or less, but that's all.
It is hard to say how exactly this issue comes out for driving. I can tell that depending on cars some might be hard to spot any degradation of drivability, and some are very obvious. I had a history with this issue since Assetto Corsa, when due some wrong checkmark in content manager I drove with this issue for few months, as a coincidence I moved from G25 to T300 wheel, and thought I was struggling getting used to new wheel. It works exactly same way in rF2, the sharper the car and the more steering mismatch the more struggle there is. I have almost no issue with my 911s, but I have more issue with GT40s as they requires more gentle and precise driving. You may think that with Caterham it has almost no negative effect, but it probably does cost a tenth or so per lap, hard to tell. Some cars actually does feel like if their FFB would become different, but maybe it is just perceived so when you keep on failing to smoothly correct the car. The whole FFB perception includes the stuff that car does in screen, and when you are constantly off by few degrees of steering it generates a feel. And with Caterham I actually find myself often doing steering mistakes of about 5-10degs, it is just a tiny wiggle (and is perfectly realistic for not being precise with steering) at the end of a oversteers in most cases, but depending on drivers skill it could lead to loosing control.
I think I can correct the car smoothly, steering is smooth and precise as with any other car. For me it's a mismatch between the wheel in my hands and the rendered wheel, I don't think it affects the handling of the car at all. There would need to be something else to have some effect.
The biggest down side of incorrect steering as with the Caterham and Mini is if there is a very tight hairpin or driving out of the garage or a tight pit lane, is that you have to turn the wheel a lot more than necessary. It's at these times is when it will be most noticeable if the steering is incorrect.
TBH I doubt this will really affect driveability or feel in any noticeable way. If it were randomly changing, sure, but often changing to different cars means different steering ratio, and you just have to adjust to it. If rotation is out by, say, 20° over 500° that's 4% difference in rotation and FFB. 2 laps and you get used to it. (remember in the old days only some of us had wheels that could do 900°, so you'd drive with 200-240° rotation on your Logi Momo wheel. People learnt to be very fast with whatever they had)
Tested it today. You are absolutely correct. Minus 10k is correct, +10k reverses the forces and is dramatically unstable! Took the canned rumble strip off but I suspect it wasn’t doing anything anyway as I can’t feel any difference.
Not really sure what a great lap time is but here's a 1:10.6 with 5° of caster. There is definitely more time to be had. I might try with 3.5° and see if I can gain any time.
