I am just starting to learn how to do some basic setups. I've made some good progress and have been able to solve a couple of long standing problems. One thing I have not been able to do is figure out how to set tire pressures. I have searched online but have not been able to find data on optimum pressures. Without that I don't know what to use as a start point. Also, I have some questions about how various changes affect oversteer and understeer on turn in and turn out. For example, if moving brake bias forward it is possible to introduce turn in understeer. This seems counter intuitive since I am getting more braking. Is it a matter of simply overloading which causes the understeer ? Finally, since all setup changes involve compromise and one change can affect other things I am wondering if there is a preferred order of doing a setup. I know that it is important to do test each change one at a time. I would appreciate any advice.
In rF2 you can go, with lowest pressures mod allow. rF2 has physical tires, optimum pressures aren't determined by just throwing in an exact number into physics parameters. And there seems to be lack of some physical effect which would result in penalty of going too low, whatever it could be. Yet IRL it seems to be true as well as long as it is not wet, and it is not bringing structural strength of tire too low. I would like to learn more about brake bias too. As much as I am aware brake bias influences weight transfer, more forward braking power, more weight shift towards front, more load on front means more grip on front. However, it confuses me that more braking power will also lock up tires more easily, and also tires can not use its maximum lateral and longitudinal grip at the same time, so if you brake very hard, you'll have less turning capability. I suppose it is best to have matching braking power to how wheels are loaded, I don't know for sure. On the third question, I know there is some logic, but I don't use any particular rules of in what sequence setups should be done. In rF2 it is quite a bit easier since you know you can just go with lowest pressures immediately. After that it is usually aerodynamics, and anti roll bars and differential and steering that I touch. Then, if needed I go to springs, dampers, wheel alignment. After rideheights might go back to aero and suspension tweaks. Eitherway, there is no physical time consuming labor to tweak the car in the sim, unlike in real life, if you understand why cars work how they work, I think there is no sequence in which you should do it. One thing to keep in mind is that ultimate reason of car setup and sports cars in general is to have all four tires employed as optimally as possible in as much time as possible, also to get tires to last as much they need to. Having flexible driving style and adapting to car helps as well. But IDK, I just simrace for fun, not competitively, not even remotely since I can't get myself racing online as much anymore. There are people around who maximizes absolute potential of how fast it is possible to drive in rF2, and for them it is crucial to nail setups to eliminate the last possible hundeds of a second from laptime, and also to finish first, I don't belong to that.
I will probably be corrected, its a passionate forum lol. Brake bias set for stable braking with out locking to easily and still have the ability to turn with some brake applied. (look up trail braking) Try turning near the end of a braking zone and also applying some brake in the middle of a mid and fast corners to test the balance. Adjust your bias as the fuel load gets lighter and or conditions change There is a million different resources and flow charts online for sure. Here is write up and has a flow chart that may help get you started. https://www.paradigmshiftracing.com/racing-basics/car-setup-science-1-race-car-setup-guide#/ As a future goal strive to use the youtube tutorials to download and install the Telemetry Motec. Then watch some tutorials on how to use it. Provides a lot of great data but 3 compelling reasons to commit some time to telemetry: It is required to set height and rake angles. Save hours of guessing and testing for suspension histo-graphs (this is the game changer in my book) Provides FFB clipping data for that car on that track You can PM me anytime for motec help.
Thanks for the flow chart. I also found a great video tutorial by Chris Haye which is designed for beginners. See the link.https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWSWQyqnLDu7tLWE9P35Qog6Z8_xb7l_g
oh nice that looks well laid out. His smooth english accent should make things seem less overwhelming too
