Build 85 Discussion Mk II

Thank you, John. I was just about to shut it down for the evening. I will get right to work. I will also report back.
RR
 
You can't really isolate the two, it comes mostly from suspension design. For some vehicles you may be able to reduce your caster angle a bit and increase the FFB Mult instead, but there are potential compromises in that. Still if it helps you get a better feel, reducing caster by a degree may be helpful, and to compensate for the overall weakened FFB strength as a result, increasing the multiplier to get it back to where you are happy.. Essentially you should get more 'tyre feel'.
Just a question: I assume the up and down motion of tyres (on bumps and off-road) shouldn't really shake the steering rack sideways that much, so you're inputting both up and down and side to side movements to the FFB to make the bumps etc. stand out more than they would with a pure steering rack solution. Would it be possible to implement a slider or at least a controller file parameter that allowed you to scale these forces, or selectively dampen only the up/down forces?
 
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If 100% total realism is to be realized the only place FFB should be generated is on the squeezing and pulling of the Steering rack. This is affected by caster, suspension geometry, tire grip, etc but it all still comes down to this single piece.

Now since the steering rack won't tell a stationary driver if the rear-end is coming out the sim needs to "fake" in some sort of reaction to the change in orientation of the rear of the car or tire slip. The only time you wouldn't need to fake anything is if you had a motion rig that could give you all the extra forces telling you about the physics of the car and your steering wheel would be set to only emulate the forces from the rack.
 
  • Uninstall ALL third party rfmods - ALL the stuff from other guys. Leave all the ISI stuff.


  • Download the rF2_v1042-v1070_69-85.exe and copy into your Updates folder.
Run the RF2 Launcher and click on Update tab then install the update.


  • Download all the ISI rfmods and copy them into the Packages folder.You should finish with 9 rfmods in the packages folder.

1] ISI1032-v10-RenaultMeganeTrophy
2] ISI1032-v10-v11-RenaultMeganeTrophy
3] ISI1044-v10-FormulaRenault35s
4] ISI1044-v10-v11-FormulaRenault35s
5] ISI1044-v11-v12-FormulaRenault35s
6] ISI1045-v10-1960sWorldClassRacing
7] ISI1050-v10-GTWorldEndurance
8] ISI1050-v10-v11-GTWorldEndurance
9] ISI1052-v10-FormulaISIr

Update them in any order first - THEN install the Masters LAST.

All third part rfmods that reference to original ISI mods are now all broken and all must be updated - including Sears Point track (Meganes 1.0).

John, Thank you so very much. There is simply no way I would have ever known that I needed to install the Masters LAST. Here are a couple of differences that worked for me. Since I had already removed the program more than 4 times in the last 18 hours, I could not use the upgrade method. I went to the Control Panel and Programs and features in Win 7, and removed rF2. I then went to "My Documents" and removed the complete rFactor2 folder. From there I did the Build_85 install, then the updates/installs like you said. I did go to the "Core" folder and finish by adding ISI1052-10-FormulaISIr. If others are doing this method, may I suggest that you be very methodical as you install/update all of these files.
It now works perfectly. Spread the word. See you on the track. I owe you a beer mate. :) Randy maybe 2. ;)
 
ISI well done on the latest update. This build has got myself and others i know back into giving it a good workout, were enjoying it very much at the moment. looking forward to more updates. i know there are still little problems but let others talk about that.
 
Great job on the last update ISI. The new formula feels great and the graphics update seems to going to the right direction.
Keep up good work.
 
So does the 3.5 have drs as well, I think I saw that it does in real life now but I'm not too sure?
Yep, they have DRS. It was introduced this year with new chasis, so last year's car in rFactor2's Formula Renault don't have it.
 
Is it just me or does anyone feel like the balance has changed since the update?

Also ffb is now feeling stiffer and with less sensitive feedback. Don't know if it's all in my head or that there is a real change?

Logitech G25 here.
 
Now since the steering rack won't tell a stationary driver if the rear-end is coming out the sim needs to "fake" in some sort of reaction to the change in orientation of the rear of the car or tire slip. The only time you wouldn't need to fake anything is if you had a motion rig that could give you all the extra forces telling you about the physics of the car and your steering wheel would be set to only emulate the forces from the rack.
Yes, it tells. There is no need to fake anything.
When your car in real life starts to slide it's the rear tires, not front that loose grip and make the back of the car go sideways.. Front tires have grip. So, front tires keeps their direction while rear slides out. The car goes sideways, front tyres holds nicely and it's the body that sort of rotates around front geometry, forcing steering wheel to turn.

If you have LEGO Technics then build a simple car with a steering rack. When done, grab both front tyres with your one hand and keep them steady. With your second hand, grab rear of the car and move it sideways. Steering wheel will move in a countersteering manner. That's exactly what happens when you start to oversteer a real car... and how it should be in our simulators.
 
Actually the steering rack WILL tell you if the rear end is coming out.

What will happen is the rear of the car will move to one side, while the front wheels will tend to stay pointing in the direction they already are. The car will effectively want to counter steer for you to an extent. You will feel this through the steering wheel, as the car rotates the steering wheel will pull in your hand towards where the car was pointing. If you're sensitive enough with your hands the car will pretty much want to counter steer itself if you let it. The front wheels effectively have a directional inertia and will want to stay pointed in the same direction as the car rotates.

If your steering rack is not ideally setup the movement of the suspension in the up down direction can cause movement in the steering rack / wheel direction - this is called bump steer, and it's cured by shimming the steering rack so the ball joints at the ends of the rack are co-planar to the wishbone pivots on the chassis. Normally one of the processes of initial setup is to try to do away with bump steer as it's not desirable.

EDIT [Didn't see LesiU's post. He's right]
 
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