If you put two wheels on the grass, you spin. If you mess up your braking, you lock up and flatspot. It's just part of racing. I don't see any reason to remove it. It teaches/forces you to get your braking right almost all the time.
Yeah I know, I used to race rF2 with a G27, living in a small apartment with no doors between the rooms, where loud noise wasn't really an option late at night. Learning proper braking technique and making very carefully thought out brake settings were highly necessary, plus using way too much FFB filtering. But even on my T500 I still have to make sure to not flatspot.
I believe(could be wrong) but this gotten stronger a few builds ago... Some cars are fine others appear to be a bit exaggerated to me. I just hit the Esc key every time... Agree with hex Playing late at night is impossible with some cars... I wish there was a way to tune it based on the wheel you have... (G25 here). It could also be that the starting break force is set to high for the particular car.
I think there are many variables at play here, and it differs from car to car how the flat spots are perceived. It depends on how severe the flatspot is, the type of tire, the stiffness of the suspension (modern open wheelers feel a lot more harsh than say the new Dissenter for example), the FFB multi. and smoothing used, the physical wheel etc. But other than turning up FFB smoothing, decreasing FFB multi., tweaking your car setup to the point where the car won't lock up easily, or even turning off tire wear, I don't see how flat spot vibration could be separated entirely from the rest of the FFB.
+1 , me included. I tell rookies in my room, every pit out from "ignition on" to start of the first "flying lap" practice all procedure correctly, do not waiver. Always pit in every session and practice your pit stop. More you practice that when it comes to a race you don't cock up a pitstop. Much the same with brakes, if you don't stick with high vibrations you will never start braking correctly. I am not saying you okay but when I say " ease off " the brake or throttle to a rookie, they will invariably lift too much. Easing of the brakes is much the same as feathering the throttle to maintain grip on the limit, not enough throttle you understeer , too much you spin. -------------------------- Put speed hud up, turn off tyre wear so no pits for flatspots and do brake tests, over and over and over again. p Italy is good, use heavy rubber. First do some full on stops and determine the speed the wheels start to lock at, if you brake straight it should be consistent. Then it is just a matter of watching the speed as you are braking and ever slightly ease off the pedal 5-10 kph sooner. Lift too much you run further into the turn and end up double braking most likely locking up. It is all 0's and 1's Practice in a straight line till you find that precise % of lift gives the shortest stopping distances with no lockup. Give it a solid hour, practice 100 stops. If you mix this practice into normal sessions ie: ai races you won't get the same feedback.
The problem is locking tires into corners if faster. Here's my hotlap from testing at sears point, i lock the inside tire almost every corner:
It might not be as bad as you think[emoji4] You brake till deep in the corner, which is good, and the wheel that locks has very little to no load on it, it's sometimes even hanging in the air. The sustained extra wear to the tire should be minimal. Sent from my XT1562 using Tapatalk
Like Roland said, this track has almost no flat turns, this mean that a car so wide and stiff, is often only on 3 tires. You are not flatspotting the tires from locking a loaded tire. If you want to avoid those locks you just need to end your braking earlier, but this would probably affect your laptime, and/or raise your rideheight and soften the front axel, again, impacting your performance.
