Remember this is the first release so all this feedback is very important for the next release. One thing that is known right now is the front tires scrubbing when you crank the wheel. Part of that will be refining the CPM and new tires to get rid of this affect. Some very good feedback by everyone. I know they want everything to be correct eventually. But for now they are pretty darn good and fun to race!
Possibly. I haven't had enough time to evaluate that fully but I've certainly had some amazingly fun races with it already because of how the tires respond over multiple laps. I just managed a 27.878 on Mountain Peak by holding it wide open in turns 1 and 2. That isn't too difficult but running 3 and 4 wide open would take a lot more setup work. I can see where it could be done if you free the car up enough. At the end of the day though, grip is just grip. Sims sometimes have too much, sometimes too little, and it's extremely difficult to gauge until you have a large number of drivers pushing the cars to the limit. It's not difficult to change how much grip there is if they feel it's a bit too much. The hard part is all the handling qualities which I find at the moment to be extremely natural and fun. I took Tim's Indy base setup and freed it up some more so I was getting a bit more RR than RF wear, and then tried to race it online. It was fast but it was a handful the whole way, and it would have been faster if it were better balanced. Toward the end of the race (20 laps on 2x wear) it was taking a very sensitive right foot to put the power down, and even though I was faster than the other leaders I just couldn't race them effectively. I'd get under someone and then couldn't put the power down coming off underneath them or the car would get sideways. But you can really feel when it's starting to go sideways and balance it there so nicely with throttle.
If the track isn't 1:1 that might explain it. Could be any number of little details, like track composition, banking, etc. EDIT: nevermind I just realized you were talking about the NASCARs having more horsepower and downforce. I feel like this car might have grippier tires than real world Goodyears i.e. "Easy Mode" tires. Honestly I don't think that would be such a bad thing if it was the case, makes for an easier introduction to stock car racing for people unfamiliar with it, especially if a Steam release is right around the corner. I'm not bothered. I'm sure a "realism" mod with actual Sprint Cup/Xfinity/ARCA/NKNPS 3d models and tires is bound to come up soon. rF2 stockcars provides the perfect baseline for that.
I just noticed this with Brookdale. REALLY easy to scrub the right front if you dont go really easy on it through the corner. I've had a few laps where I thought I was hitting the line perfectly only to look in my mirror and see a thick black line of rubber being left behind me. I'm figuring out how to get it through the corner without scrubbing but I feel like it shouldn't be that easy to scrub the tire. Then again I'm just a dude behind a computer and not a real stock car driver so I don't have anything to base that assumption on other than a gut feeling so
People with budget wheels make sure you don't punish the wheel. Easy to get carried away for hours left handed then notice later your wheeling is not tracking as true as it was. Seen it happen
"Dega" would definitely be a good track to actually see what we have here, but a Darlington would be worth its salt just to be a test bed for developing the worlds best AI in sim racing.
Short tracks. Toledo, ORP, Hickory, stuff like that. Also more unique ~1 Mile ovals, like Iowa, Phoenix, Gateway, Pikes Peak. Also for the future you should try to get hooked up with CRA or CARS or somebody and get some Super Late Models in game.
Try moving the weight bias rearward, close to 50/50. I've even seen guys running 49.5 front bias. I don't know if they're doing that in NASCAR these days but they didn't use to on intermediates. Anyway the default sets are all very understeery. After as little as 3 or 4 laps of pushing hard you just get the RF too hot and it won't turn off the corner anymore. It can be fixed though, and when you get it more neutral or even loose it's a blast. Took a while to figure out for me because it isn't as sensitive as iRacing is to setup changes (which could well be accurate). All the usual stuff - stiffer right rear spring, softer right front, raise the track bar on the right side, more negative wedge, smaller front anti-roll bar, more right rear tire pressure. All of those things are working but the default sets need a lot of adjustment before you can actually push on them for more than a few laps. Tim's Indianapolis set posted further up thread is a good starting point for that track.
One of the issues we're facing is it's not hard to put a conversion pack of tracks together for everyone to get started on, but the AIW files are going to have to be redone with this new weather and sun system. Tracks are not oriented correctly to true north. So are people okay with getting bad sun directions in the first conversion release? Or do you want to help do AIW conversions? Anyone want to learn? It's pretty easy to do, just a bit tedious. It's all done inside the game.
You can also us the Rear Toe Offset to steer the rear wheels to the right to help it turn. They are doing up to 0.50 inches in real life but that is mainly on short tracks. After you do that you can use the Front toe offset to adjust how much you have to turn the wheel to the right to go straight. Almost like a built in Wheel calibration for steering. Also if you are messing with setups be careful not to bottom out on the front as it will be very tight or understeering. Hope that helps a tad.