Guide: Optimal FFB settings for rFactor 2 - The key to being in the "Zone" :D

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by DrR1pper, Mar 26, 2014.

  1. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    You're welcome but regarding the last bit "Much more easiest than with the G25 ! I thought this was not the same game !", are you sure that's not also the fact your going from the g25 to t500?
     
  2. Jochem

    Jochem Registered

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    Oh, yeah this was what I mean ! I clearly noticed the lack of grip information with the G25 compared to the T500rs. There is no doubt about this ! And then, I used Leo+Real Feel ! I learned all what I should with the G25. Now, the T500rs bring me to a new dimension :)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 25, 2014
  3. jimbus80

    jimbus80 Registered

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  4. jimbus80

    jimbus80 Registered

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    Which are the best values for a T300?
     
  5. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    T300?

    Ignore that, you meant T300RS. I searched T300 and came up with mobile phones and transponder key programmers. lol

    I don't know what is considered a good value since i don't think there are many T300RS owners using rf2. I know that Terence an ISI dev does/did have one though. Perhaps you could ask him via pm.

    Alternatively, the guide does have instructions on how to find the best value and if you get stuck you can always ask a question.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 10, 2014
  6. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    Apparently the T300RS and the TX are extremely similar to the T500RS, while being just a tad weaker but also smoother do to the brushless motors. If running a T300RS or TX (I'm pretty sure they're identical other than what consoles they can run on), I would definitely start off with T500RS settings but with a bit more overall strength added (for eg. try 75% or 70% FFB control-panel strength with the T300RS/TX if advised to use 60% with the T500RS, or maybe raise the in-game FFB strength instead of from the control panel).
     
  7. 3lrsc

    3lrsc Registered

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    Hi all, I've done a video based upon Dr R1pper's very good information. I've found this post very helpful and it has made my rFactor2 experience 100% better. In the video description I Credited Dr R1pper for the find and also Included the link to this thread too. Before I post the link I want to be sure that I can so as not to do anything the moderators don't like. The video is under my channel 3lr sc racing. Is it allowed to post a YouTube link? :) Cheers
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 12, 2014
  8. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    Hi there, yes ofc it's perfectly fine to post videos. :)
     
  9. 3lrsc

    3lrsc Registered

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  10. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    I can't watch it right now but will do in the morning. :)
     
  11. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    Dr.R. Can you post your FFB controller files (or all of them if you use different ones for different cars)?... Or do you just use default (with possibly some STM added)?... Also, can you post the corresponding in-game car specific FFB multis as well? Thanks...
     
  12. Ashes

    Ashes Registered

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    Anyone done this for the TX?
    I have fiddled myself, and used the 500rs as my base.
    Would like to see what settings others have landed on.
     
  13. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    Spinelli, currently unable to as I'm afk for the day. I use the same controller file for all cars. My STM is 0.03 for all cars. I couldnt tell you my ffb multi values apart from the few cars I drive which I state in the op. Eg 0.75 for megane, 1.0 for karts, etc.
     
  14. Nick88

    Nick88 Registered

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    Hi DrR1pper,

    I am really struggling with this. My multi is 0.35 and on 0 smoothing on a G27.
    I can use pretty much any "steering torque minimum" up to around 0.60

    But it's made me significantly slower. Nearly a second slower in fact. The wheel is so light and I have lost all feel on the nose. There is no weight, I can't feel understeering coming or anything.

    1.00 multi and 30 smoothing felt faster. Well, it was faster. It wasn't as twitchy for sure. The car just slides and you do not feel it coming and even when it slides you only know it when going back on the power.

    Any idea what has caused this?
     
  15. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    That's an extremely low ffb multi and incredibly high "steering torque minimum" (STM) Nick. How did you come to use those values?

    Also which car are you using with these values with?

    Based on what i can remember for people driving cars that have optimal ffb mutli's of around 0.8(ish), stm was no higher than around 0.1-0.15 for g25/27 users.

    But even if for example you were driving one particular car with an optimal ffb multi of 0.35, the optimal STM value should remain the same.
     
  16. Nick88

    Nick88 Registered

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    This was a more so "custom" mod adapted version of the ISI Formula car with 8 gears.

    I notice it most through turn three of Malaysia and then the high speed left/right in the middle sector followed by the very fast double right.

    I am seeing pretty extreme and fast flicks in to red during these corners.
     
  17. Comante

    Comante Registered

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    High end clipping is not the absolute evil. It's almost unavoidable. Dumbing down FFB multi so much is like turning it off.
     
  18. DrR1pper

    DrR1pper Registered

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    Right, gotcha. Yeah i don't drive those oftern at all but can imagine the dynamic ffb output has a very large range meaning to the optimal is like you say it is for such high g-force cars. In such examples, i would use the same STM that works well for you in all the other slower cars (which should be around 10-15% for a g25/27 if i recall other user reports correctly) and adapt the ffb multi to that, finding a compromise value that has the least amount of barable ffb clipping and strong enough low end forces. There is no practical solution except a better ffb wheel other than that (i can think of) i'm afraid. :(

    edit: Scratch that, thought of one 2 seconds after hitting "post".

    Do what i said still (use the stm you find works well for the other cars) and try an ffb multi higher that "0.35" that strikes an acceptable compromise of performance handling vs some ffb clipping in the high speed corners and then add some "steering torque sensitivity" above "1.0" (up to 2.0) to bring up the low end forces some more. This will make your ffb stronger in the low end forces. If you find a high value is good you may find you don't need so much stm (if any at all) with the F1.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 28, 2014
  19. MystaMagoo

    MystaMagoo Registered

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    I have got a STM of 0.038,does this sound ok?
    CSR Elite.

    Tested at LRP,no clipping so kept FFB at 1.0
     
  20. Acoutsa

    Acoutsa Registered

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    Hi !!! I also have a Logitech G27 !!!
    My (STM) 0.030 and not 0.35 is too much for me! With the Logitech G27 on the Nordschleife (STM) to a value greater than 0,030, with (vehicle ffb people) all general cars to between 0.65 and 0.75, because if I exceed this value by car there differente there will be abnormal oscilliations my logitech g27 will tense !!!
    For me, it is very difficult to remove the dead zone in rfactor 2 with logitech g27. It is a shame because, at this moment I like to ride with the honda nsx who feels weak at the center of logitech g27 and increase (STM) I do not feel the front wheels lose traction.
    For me setting the logitech G27 seems right to me. I believe that for the moment there is no better !!
     

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