Guide: Optimal FFB settings for rFactor 2 - The key to being in the "Zone" :D

This is what i was trying to say here:

I think u should also post it in the "Wish list" thread

 

Oh ok, gotcha.

Left Tim a visitor message.

 

Trouble is every time you play online with a new mod the stm value would be lost like the ffb multi value is, because it isn't vehicle specific but mod specific. So you would have to remember the stm and the ffb multi you like for each car. Don't know that this will change as it would have to circumvent the current system that should stop online cheating I think. There are already a couple of controller.ini settings I would like to see finalized and then removed altogether.

I also find the karts do the odd bizarre spasm thing through the wheel at quebec, i think it's something to do with the kart or quebec, drive a kart on the glassy surface of plickbadgers texas and they are a different beast on the track. I find my stm value to be pretty good across everything, with a variety of ffb multi, most around 0.8 though. I crank it up on the karts and put up with the odd monitor wobbling, rig shaking freakout from the wheel, when you crank the multi right up it's less noticeable anyway because the ffb effects are nearly as strong as the shaking that occasionally happens, and they blend in ok on the track, when it happens in the pits when you are crawling along not so much, and this is why I think it's an effect/bug that probably needs ironing out. I dont get this in any other vehicle even with the ffb turned up to clip point, I can't get rid of it with the kart using any of the controller.ini settings. And the clip point changes with the karts depending on the steering ratio you use, can't say it happens with any other vehicle.

 

Hey guys, I've been following this thread and since I've changed my wheel, I'm lost in game.

I've been using a G25 for years and now I have a Thrustmaster TX.
When I drive I feel a lot more things about the road, the kerbs, I can feel when I have two wheels on painted tarmac etc...

But about the car, I feel less.
I had more information about the weight of the car and when she was on the edge with a G25 than now.

I tried a lot of settings, tried to follow advices I've read here but I'm lost.

Anyone have an idea ?

 

t500 control panel:

70% overall
100% Constant and Periodic
0% Spring and Damper
0% centering

controller.ini file:
Steering torque minimum = 0.03000

ingame car specific ffb multi:

kart = 1.0
megane = 0.77

 

Thank you DrR1pper, I already tried something really close. I guess as this is not the same wheel, settings should be differents...

 

Oh yeah, TX. My bad, didn't read properly. You will need to find your own STM value but even without any STM, is your observation the same going from a g25 to the TX?

When you plugged in the TX, did you hit the "Detect" button in the in-game control settings menu? Also are you using the same "ffb smoothing" for both wheels? (ffb smoothing gets reset to some value when you hit the "Detect" button as well).

Just trying to rule out possible causal factors.

 

Yep thanks, I got something better when I played with the ffb smoothing.
Thanks for the advices.

 

Now better than g25 or just better than how the TX was feeling before?

I don't have a TX but i would expect it to feel much better than a g25. If the t500 is anything to go by, the newer wheel should be night and day difference (in a positive way) from the g25.

 

It's much better than G25, appart from the pedals, they are really really bad.
I still need to adapt myself a little bit but yesterday I was completely lost on track, seconds away from my laptimes and sliding everywhere bar in straight lines...

I consider buying a Clubsport V2 from Fanatec in the next months.

I can enjoy rF2 more than ever.

 

Clubsport v2's would make a nice addition.

 

Could anyone post the original factor-default force feedback settings from controller.ini...? I appear to have gone a bit wayward with my changes, too much at once and now can't backtrack, and have lost my backup of the original. Need to start again from scratch - and yes, I'm still thrashing it out with the old MS Sidewinder FFB Wheel & Pedals (USB ver). Had it since 1999 and it still works perfectly.

 

Just delete the file then start rF2 and it will be re-created in its default form.

 

Thought of that but didn't want to lose all settings... but thinking about it more, may as well copy current file out, let rF2 recreate, then add back in the bits I want.

Why I didn't think about that to start with I have no idea - ta for sending my brain in the right direction fella!

 

Hello guys,

Did anyone try the Mak Group C Mazda 787 B yet?
I have set STM at 0.01500, Car specific FFB mult ar 0.20 and FFB smoothing at 32. There is a lot of steering rattling, and I noticed heavy clipping at Curva Biassono, the right hander at the end of the pit straight. It is also clipping at both Lesmos. When it rattles, I see the red bar indicating clipping. I know the car is a beast, as shown in this video of Herbert at Le Mans.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81zhOQ5PvaE

I don't know if it was built on purpose in the mod, but that is what your steering wheel does.
Tried with STM at 0.05500, the other settings as shown, rattling is less, but still pronounced. I am at a loss, I love this car, it is a lot of fun to drive, but after 10 to 20 laps, you start to feel your arms. I am also concerned about damage to the G27.

 

First I thank Dr1ipper for posting this, it made FF2 so much more enjoyable.

Did anyone try the Mak Group C Mazda 787B yet?

I love the car, it is immensely fun to drive, but I am having a hard time setting it. I tried it with STM at 0.05500, Car specific FFB mult at 0.40 and FFB smoothing at 5. It almost wrenched the wheel off my hands (G27). Clipping was heavy at Monza Curva Biassono, a high speed right hander at the end of the pit straight, and when the wheel rattles I can also see clipping.

I know the car is a beast as shown in this video of Herbert at Le Mans.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81zhOQ5PvaE

The wheel jerking is the same in the simulation, and heavy on the pit straight, and on the straight before the Parabolica. I don't know if this was built on purpose on the game, but I am now at Car specific FFB 0.20, FFB smoothing 30, and the steering wheel still rattles.

I would really appreciate if anyone has tried and got the mod working as it should, and would share the settings. I will continure to try, but at the same time I am concerned about possible damage to the wheel.

 

Hi again,
I must described what i found. I had to reinstall my rf2 since i get freezes. Anyway after reinstallation i get on the truck and.... OMG the FFB is amazing. What i forget to do is to change stm in controller.ini!!! TBH i dont know why is it happening, but without STM i can feel the car more. Its the next proof for me that STM in rf2 is completely wrong. It introduces low forces "clipping", which can be seen on the plugin. The plugin wll always show there is an ffb outpt, even on complitely flat straights, where should be no ffb outpu. It only introduces fake feel of grip.

Here u can see how STM is implemented in iracing. If u watch it carefully u will notce that even with 6% of stm there are moments where the plugin in iR shows no ffb output.
Another proof of STM in rf2 being fake. But these are only me feelings.


What i also recommend is to use higher ffb strength settings in windows panels if u want to reduce the deadzone, than using any STM value.

 

Sometimes inspiration abandons us like a bad deodorant

enviado mediante tapatalk

 

As this topic return from time to time, I wish to post some info.
At the moment, I'm using the wheel at 90% strenght (from logitech profiler) as this is the setup where I get the minimum deadzone and a decent high maximum force. As the output curve is not flat, but slightly arched above "linear", I use a slightly less linear setting in FFB output like 0.95000 instead of 1.00000, now the STM is very low, something like 1.5% . With these settings I feel I can get the most out of my wheel, now I can feel the wheel get light when understeering or locking tires. I have less problem copying with FFB, in fact now I can use little or no smoothing and get the same laptimes, while before I needed a strong smoothing to be able to be fast, or to reduce FFB multiplier a lot.

 

I don't think this is true, here's why. When the devs added the stm, i tested the iracing version first and it was exactly the same as how it works now in rf2. If you set the "Min Force" value in iracing too high (i.e. above the deadzone amount) and go out on track, you can feel the wheel turn itself and if you keep the wheel straight and turn it ever so gently left and right the ffb will suddenly snap in that direction by the amount of the "Min force" value. The difference is that iracings ffb bar is programmed differently so that you don't see the final ffb with the added "Min Force" (or stm) value applied....that is all.

You can get low end force clipping ofc which presents itself as oscillations/vibrations but so long as you avoid this from happening then it really should be fine (or more than fine). Whatever the stm value for your wheel is, set it slightly lower if you're still not satisfied. Increasing the ffb strength in windows (much higher than default) will just induce ffb clipping (of the high end) by making the ffb response curve non-linear. For example, the t500 ffb strength in windows is default value of 60% which gives linear response. Jumping to 100% ffb strength clips all forces sent to the wheel from the sim that are in the 60-100% region. That's like using an ingame ffb multi of 1.67 if 1.0 were the most optimal ffb to avoid ffb clipping. 1 step forward....but 2 step back.

Here's a graph of different windows ffb strength settings for my t500:



I should note that i actually use the 70% value. Offers a little more max ffb output, slightly less deadzone and not that significant bit of clipping at the very top end.