Np lol. The tool is good. I got some very usefull tips which i never considered before. I'm a big noob in car setups so this tool is good for me. Verstuurd van mijn GT-I9100 met Tapatalk
Noob question! When setting up a car in rfactor 2 using this tool, where do i find the corner weight of the car in setup to apply within setupfu.
You need the Total Weight of the car plus the Front/Rear ratio and the Left/Right ratio. Then it is simple math. LF would be Total weight x Front Weight ratio x Left Weight ratio. As an example, the Skippy weighs 1250 lbs. with a F/R ratio of 39.6/60.4 and a L/R ratio of 50/50. You would take the 1250 x 39.6% = 495 x 50% = 247.5. So the LF Corner weight is 247.5 lbs. I just made a quick Excel sheet that you enter the total weight and the ratios and it gives you the Corner weights.
That's just static weight. Actually dynamic corner weight take in consideration lat and long weight transfer. long Transfer = (car weight * centerOfGravity * long G)/wheeltrack lat Transfer = (car weight * centerOfGravity * lat G)/axle track (in case that front is different than the rear) Pay attention that you have both longitudinal and lateral total transfer so to apply to just a tire you have to divide by 2. For example if i have a car with this spec/situation : weight : 1000kg (car + fuel + driver) CG (centerofgravity): 200mm wheeltrack: 3000mm axle track: 2000mm Long G: -1.5 g (braking) Lat G: 2 g (let's say corner to left, i can conclude that this is a threshold braking situation) static weight distribution (kg) : front 200 200 rear 300 300 the weight transfer would be : long Transfer = (1000* 0.2 * 1.5)/3 = - 100 kg latG transfer = (1000* 0.2 * 2)/2 = 200kg So basically i have a transfer of 1000/2=50kg of weight from rear to front per tire and 200/2=100kg of weight from left to right per tire, final balance of: front 150 350 rear 150 350 That said those are just numbers, the useful parts come when you use them. It is easy to conclude that the only way to reduce weight transfer(not total amount of weight) is by lowering CG (wheeltrack and axle tracks are locked). You do that by lowering car height (i know that you knew it) but pay attention that some car require a specific front/rear height proportion or you ended up with ruining the downforce. Moreover, those calculus does not take in consideration the amount of kgf produced by the aerodynamic which produces more weight on all 4 wheels in proportion to the amount of downforce and its distribution. Remind that downforce are in proportion to the speed, the higher speed the higher downforce, the lower speed the lower downforce, so when you slowdown your weight on 4 wheels will get closer and closer to the result above and the more unbalanced the easier to see issues (lockup, too much heat by overloading specific tires, underload a tire and not use it as you should). That's why cars with high aerodynamic efficiency requires more brake modulation to stay on the limit, if you are not modulating (without one of those issues) you are far from the limit.
I forgot to add that you CANNOT avoid weight transfer! You CAN avoid/reduce pitch but not transfer, it will be always there. What you CAN do (useful) is reduce the speed on which it transfer, that's where dampers become handy. So for example if you have a situation where you will keep a braking-turn for 1 sec and without damper the transfer would occur in 0.1 sec (usually faster than that at high G's), and you know that with current specs and CG you will ended up with underload tires, damper can help you so that at the end of 1 secs instead of having the final weight transfer you have half of it because the damper slowed down enough so the transfer had not enough time to complete it. BE AWARE that i'm not saying that this is the right way to setup dampers, i'm just giving example of ONE of its utilities, and be aware that i'm still talking of a situation without aerodynamics influence.
Anyway guys, i'm not a master of car's setup but i can say that there is no huge mystery about tweaking a car. I just read a lot of books and studied physics but before even start to playing the real requirements is DRIVING SKILLS. Driving skills is what makes setup easy or hard and by skills i don't mean go fast but go smooth. I've read so many times that to go fast you have to go slow, yeah i know it is in contrast but it makes the point perfectly. I've took a year to understand this and this brought me better lap times and setup skills. So before starting to play with setups make sure that you don't overdrive the car or else you will not understand correctly the cause and effect of each change, moreover it will help you to find better trajectories. I remember that in the past i used to seem so fast because of an overdriving behave, instead today i seem to be so slow but my lap times is actually pretty preyty faster (because of a better racing line and weight transfer thus better traction). Once you have that skill you can start by doing some changes and if you keep the same smooth from test to another you will notice the difference correctly (if you overdriver you will see difference but the difference you will in your driving stile). IMO a good procedure is (specially for beginners): 0 - Set dampers to mid, anyway overall neutral car. 1 - Setup your Aerodynamics and top Speed, start by setting a proper rear wing aiming for an acceptable top speed, once you get that set the front wing to balance the car until you start to have a bit of oversteer (at high speed corners) than do a couple of step back (just to stay on a safe situation). 2 - Setup your gears, old rule ..... first gear according to the lowest corner and the last gear according to the longest straight (I’ll skip final gear topics) 3 - MOST IMPORTANT PART DOES NOT SKIP THIS....SETUP YOUR TIRES TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURES, most people simplify this part by saying ok negative camber to increase inner temperature, pressure to increase center temperature. First of all you should have at least a rough idea about the optimum temperature and pressure. After that you have to balance the temperature distribution and pressure (I<C<O, C = (I+O)/2, I-O +- 10 delta) BE AWARE THAT CURRENT RF2 CONTACT PATCH IS NOT WORKING CORRECTLY SO YOU WILL NEVER HAVE CORRECT TEMPERATURE DISTRIBUTION. Another important thing to keep in mind is temperature distribution between tires and ends, for this part you have to consider the AVERAGE TEMPERATURE ( avg = (i+c+o)/3), since road cars should have symmetrical setup you should work in pair. To setup the avg distribution you should pick the tire with the highest temperature of each end and work on that, to raise the AVERAGE temperature on that end the easiest thing to do is to STIFFEN your spring (both side together) on that end thus requiring that tire to make more work. The topic is a bit longer but i will end here, this is enough to extract a huge amount of tire potential. OHhh i almost forgot, be aware that lower ARB create more camber "deflection" and that sometimes pressure is more important than temperatures (depends on the sim). OH KEY FACTOR DOES NOT SPIN, DOES NOT LOCK, AVOID SLIPS! From now on any change should be followed by temperature check to maintain the same distribution between edges, tires and ends. 4 – Setup break bias, first focus on straight breaking then focus on braking while cornering. 5 – Start first telemetry analysis that go beyond tire analysis. Here you can determine if any understeer might be due to differential locking up too soon (you have to put together rear wheels speeds and throttle in plot, if you see that as soon as you apply throttle both external wheel speed match the internal wheels then you should lower power, instead if the same happen when you lift your foot then you have to lower coast), REMIND THAT A BIT OF differential lock-up is ok, the important is that it does not happen too soon. Anyway differential lock-up time is also a matter of preference. REMEMBER THIS IS A ROUGH DIFFERENTIAL SETUP JUST TO AVOID EXCESSIVE LOCKUP. 6 - Setup your springs, you should have a rough start point for your springs from the step above, a good rule thumb for those who are not experienced is work with one end at time (first the front). Remember that spring are very useful during brake, corner enter and corner exit but you are basically working on rough car balance on those part (braking, enter and exit). Another KEY thing to remember is that SPRING ARE USED TO KEEP THE CAR UP, so it is used to control pitch. The stiffer the faster it unloads and the slower it loads, instead the softer the slower it unloads and the faster it loads. By the last sentence it might conclude that it acts almost like a damper, well technically that's correct but it produce the side effect of increasing/decreasing pitch so for example let’s suppose that you need to slow down weight transfer so you decide to work on the spring by soften it, you will ended up with more nose pitch which would force you to increase height which would increase CENTER OF GRAVITY, which would lead to increased weight transfer so even if you slowed down the weight transfer you increased the amount of transfer so you might end with a tire underloaded. 7 - Setup your arb, technically this is a part of step 4 but to keep things simple i separated. Here you are targeting for a better balance during enter, mid and exit but more important mid and exit. Moreover key factor is road compliance. You can be helped by telemetry data to see which end is rolling more and before. 8 - Start fine suspension tweaking in your dampers, this part is a bit of feeling and a bit of telemetry. I’ll try to be simple here there is two path as I anticipated : Feeling : http://www.dtmpower.com/documents/Howtosetupracecaradjustabledampers.pdf Telemetry : Use histograms and aim for a good balance between time spend on specific time between bump and rebound per tire and per end. Then try to see what happen if it is stiffen on one end and what happen if is stiffen on the other end. REMEMBER THAT DAMPER REQUIRES A LOT OF FEELING, so when you change go out there and try it for at least 7 laps (consistent laps). 9 – Play with toe-in to see if you can extract something more. Obviously i missed some topics, because once you have these basic topics you have what is necessary to deal with the others. Obviously a well done telemetry worksheet help a lot to see some mistake, specially when it is about to understand if it is a setup issue or a driver issue (it happens with professionals, you can imagine that amateurs might induce more driver issues than setup issues)
