Hi guys, A few years back I learned a nice trick over here: when you get another steering wheel but you want to keep the Logitech pedals (and/or shifter) you can pull the power cord out of the Logitech and keep it: it will work. It did! Now today, I got a new steering wheel set from Fanatec. Installed the drivers, updated the firmware and the Fanatec is running properly. But, long story short: when I switch ON the wheel, the pedals act up and won't work proper anymore. (The brake goes to full in "properties" and gas is moving up and down) So, I'm a bit sad now: tried the Logitech driver install over again, different USB ports and such; nope! I really wouldn't like to switch or uninstall the Fanatec drivers........ The Windows (10 Home x64) install is just a few weeks old: I can't imagine it's that. Sure, I can go for a Bodnar cable, but who is to say that will work, right? Do you guys have any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
rF2 DOES recognise both contollers when they are BOTH connected? I've used - it's currently in my bits drawer - a Bodnar cable and the pedals showed up as a separate controller OK. They both work when you test with the Windows USB Games Controller utility?
They do both show up, I can assign to both of them too. Assigning is a bit weird because the pedals "keep moving" and so it shows as that axis, but when I push a button fast enough, it "takes" the Fanatec. In Windows controls, all seems fine. When the Fanatec is switched OFF, I can see the bars move with my feet, but when I power it ON, the bars start flipping and/or stand full. I don't have a Bodnar cable, but this always worked for me: its just weird now it doesn't anymore, right? So, in this case; I'm not sure the Bodnar cable is going to help.
The below is just something to look at to see what's going on. I'm wondering if when the Fanatec is running the controller file gets configured to use the Fanatec pedals that the wheelbase reports as being connected? Have a look at the controller.json file you are using in this configuration. There is a section titled "Controllers"... At the end of this section you'll see a list like this... "Device Name 1":"Aiologs Shifter=#12093102#6E503F50-3B2E-11EC-8001-444553540000", "Device Name 10":"", "Device Name 11":"", "Device Name 12":"", "Device Name 13":"", "Device Name 14":"", "Device Name 15":"", "Device Name 16":"", "Device Name 2":"USB Handbrake=#23418037#95CC4850-73E9-11EC-8001-444553540000", "Device Name 3":"Button Box=#23418036#25353DB0-1A77-11ED-8001-444553540000", "Device Name 4":"Invicta Pedals=#2433f100#02BE7240-3D10-11ED-8001-444553540000", "Device Name 5":"Logitech G HUB G29 Driving Force Racing Wheel USB=#046dc24f#ED3DD0A0-E186-11EA-8010-444553540000", "Device Name 6":"Logitech® G25 Pedals=#1dd2100c#9905FE50-1600-11EB-8001-444553540000", "Device Name 7":"", "Device Name 8":"", "Device Name 9":"" This lists my devices. My Invicta Pedals show up as device 4 Further down there is a section "Input" Here I have entries for the pedals - the below aren't in the actual order they appear in the file and the '#' comments I have added. However it shows that the pedal controls are mapped to device 4 - my Invicta pedals "Control - Throttle":[ 4, #"Invicta Pedals" 0 ], "Control - Brake":[ 4, #"Invicta Pedals" 2 ], "Control - Clutch In":[ 4, #"Invicta Pedals" 4 ], The question is are your Throttle, Brake and Clutch In controls mapped to the correct device number for the Logitech pedals? I believe device 6 is my Bodnar cable so if the pedals were to be connected through this I'd expect the device number for the controls to be 6. My Logitech wheel is device 5 and the controls for steering appears like this "Control - Steer Right":[ 5, "Logitech G HUB G29 Driving Force Racing Wheel USB" 0 ], "Control - Steer Left":[ 5, "Logitech G HUB G29 Driving Force Racing Wheel USB" 1 ], If on your system the pedals are being mapped to the non-existent Fanatec pedals that the wheelbase is reporting to rF2 then it won't know what the levels are so goes haywire. All of the above is guess a bit of a guess but only takes a few minutes to check out. I have deleted all the standard controller files that come with rF2 and created some of my own to handle the different hardware combinations I want to use. GT3 - uses the G29 flappy paddles BTCC - uses Aiologs Sequential NASCAR - uses the Logitech H shifter.
Thank you for your explanation: this stuff is hard for me, but I think I get it a bit. The fact is, that even without starting up a game, in the Windows control panel it gets all messed up; so in my humble opinion, if that's not right, the game will never know what to do? I was thinking of solving the problem with the two they have together, and then look what happens in a game.
@Navigator weird. I don't have any direct experience or advice to offer (since I don't have fanatec) but did the same for years with an unpowered G27 alongside my TM wheel/pedals. (TM pedals for a bit, then back to G27 pedals when I got sick of the TM pedals not working properly, then back to TM pedals after I'd modded them) Indeed if the G27 pedals are playing up in windows itself the game can't do anything to fix it, so you'll either have to work that out or try the bodnar/similar route. I'm with you in that you probably can't be sure that'll work either, as the conflict seems strange in the first place. I wonder if there's any obscure controller settings in windows that will alleviate it - good luck in finding info on that one, I hope you are lucky and find something quickly.
@Lazza Thank you for your response mate. I have gotten a bit further on this and measured some stuff. As there is the motor/wheelbase attached to the metal rig and also the pedals are hard mounted to that same metal rig: there could be some voltage going around. I Measured the rig against the ground connection of the wall outlet: almost 9 VAC. When I grounded the rig, it went better, but not completely away. I'm not liking voltages running everywhere: they are the ones demolishing your stuff, right? So, grounded and bought Fanatec pedals too Because even if grounded, there were some issues with restarting the system sometimes when port Fanatec and even the shifter were connected. So, no Logitech stuff anymore......bought new ram once, I don't want to do that every time.
OK... the G27 pedals have the GND of the potentiometers are internally connected to the metal bracket the pedals mount on. What I think is happening is... You have the G27 pedals bolted to a metal frame with metal bolts then the complete frame will have whatever voltage GND is. What we are measuring here for the signal for the pedal position is the difference between the GND and +5V When you set up the pedals you are telling the software ( Windows or the game ) that released is at the GND end and fully depressed is at the +5V end - but the difference may be 5V or 3V. It doesn't matter as long as we know the lower and upper points. So with the G27 pedals only powered up then we have a 5V difference. The Fanatec wheelbase is also bolted to the metal frame. It also has it's GND connected to the internal fixings. So when you turn on the Fanatec wheelbase it's changing the difference that the G27 hardware is detecting. If you are getting around 9V AC then the differance between the GND and the +5V is all over the place. Ideally anything electrical should be completely isolated from a metallic frame; either nylon washers under boltheads or nylon bolts. Well you could have one thing connected but, as you have found, the PSUs that the various kit comes with aren't brilliant when it comes to having the expected values so that won't guarantee that the the frame won't be carrying some current. Most, if not all, have just two wires for the input so GND can be "all over the place".
