Every now and then during the game I hear a “beep” after which I can no longer change gears for 4 or 5 seconds, then I hear another “beep” and the gearbox returns to work. It usually happens to me after at least 40-50 minutes of play, last night in a one-hour race it happened to me 3 times in the last laps. I don't know if it's an RF2 or W10 problem, does anyone have any suggestions to figure out how to fix it?
It maybe is your Gas Pedal. The "beep" is from the Gearprotection i guess and when you are on Throttle, you can not Shift. Give your Gas Pedal a small Deadzone at the Beginning. If the Pedal is the Problem, that should solve it.
No, it’s not the beep of gear protection, the beep I mean start when I’m not using the gear, it seems like that my device disconnect and reconnect after some seconds, only the gear disconnect, wheel, gas and brake continue to work
On my logitech G27 , there are seperate connection from wheel to throttle/brake peddle and H-shifter. So if this is same in your case then you may need to check your wiring. if it is loose , broken etc. In past i had problem where throttle was behaving weird and it was cable that was bent and loose.
@Matlorc As @Simulation_Player has said already, it also depends on how the Shifter is connected. If it has an own/separate Connection and USB, try another USB Port. If it's connected to the Wheel, do what he suggested.
I have a button plate with paddles to change gear, the button plate has his own cable, wheel base and pedals have other cables, I noticed that when the beep start also the buttons don’t work, so it’s sure that for some reason the button plate disconnect and reconnect, i changed usb but the problem still continue. I think the cable could be damaged, but if was damaged I don’t understand why the button plate reconnect after some seconds, and why the problem never happen at the beginning of sessions but always after 30-40 minutes that I play
I'm no Electrician, but maybe it's caused by a "cold solder joint" on a Circuit Board for Example. If the same Thing happens on another USB Port too, the Suspicion, that it is the Controller itself, is big.
I had a similar issue and it was due to the button plate disconnecting and reconnecting. I use a Turn Racing BP2 which uses an RJ45 connection, which I was a bit suspicious of before purchasing it. It worked most of the time, but I couldn't put up with the disconnections, so i fixed it by attaching the cable to the underside of my (now not so) quick release with some foam and a tie wrap. I haven't experienced the problem since.
Had the same issue with my GSI steering wheel. Changing USB port from my external powered hub to a port on the motherboard solved the issue for 100%.
My button plate is not connected to a powered hub. I had already been planning to change this button plate for a long time, now it's time to change it, I ordered the Simracingbay BB ultra V2. Thanks everybody for your answers
BB ultra V2 arrived, with this button plate the problem disappeared, so it was just a defect of the old one. Nice not to have more cables to annoy Now I just have to solve the CTD problem that has been bothering me for a month
