Welcome to real life Flat Spots, plenty of YouTube footage showing how violent Flat Spots can be, keep getting them? improve your braking! That's absolute nonsense, as already said Zero (0) gives the best relation of FFB from the games engine. Never ever read anything like that, please find the link, as the bit about the Skippy is also complete rubbish.
by the way anyone has a good FFB fanatec setting for csl elite at fanalab for S397 porsche cup ? it feels really springy FFB really balloon type of feel i cannot stand it
@MarcG yep i remember reading from some people that zero has the most detail that we can have from RF2 and some other that zero is wrong for reasons i dont exactly remember
i found it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! read https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/658/rfactor-2-pc-fanatec-recommended-settings - rFactor 2 has the ability to provide a 'raw' force feedback signal that can generate significant mechanical noise on some wheel bases, which can be reduced through a combination of lower FEI values (Fanatec Tuning Menu) and higher FFB Smoothing values (rFactor 2 menu). This is highly dependent on the vehicle selected - the Skip Barber 2013, for example, communicates more surface detail with FFB Smoothing at max (32) than the BMW M6 GTE 2018 with FFB Smoothing at 0. While it is important to keeping smoothing to a minimum for the most 'detail', it is not unreasonable to add a significant amount of smoothing (values above 10) for some vehicles.
hmm no sorry but at 32 you're getting much much less details. If you need 32 on a Fanatec then something's wrong with your wheel setup.
Flatsplots are normal and it is normal to feel them "a lot" under certain driving circumstances and following braking errors. The correct value for FFB smoothing will still be 0, or maybe 2/3/4 for a very old wheel. Note that the last radical and the car it replaces creates a somewhat grainy FFB compared to the 40 other S397 cars. If you can feel excess flatspots, it is probably because the FFB is set too high, especially the FFB multiplying. And worse than that, you must probably have a lot of clipping, in the FFB signal of rF2 (software) and your steering wheel (hardware). Your settings are in my opinion completely to review.
Interesting, I use 4 on my DD1 and it feels perfect, still has the rubber feeling, when I tried more i sfarted feeling delays and a ffb was a bit numb, like 8+ i felt started to get like that.
Just tried it. Too light for me, the wheel has no weight. With these, you can definitely feel more what rF2 tyre model wants you to feel, but given that I'm looking for a more realistic FFB I have to go back to the default Fanatec settings.
4 - Been happy with this setting on pretty much everything. Some cars have some really strange artifacts which become apparent at low smoothing rates. Most notably is the Radical SR3's, but I've also noticed similar 'low-fi' like signals with the Tatuus cars.
Try increasing force (FOR), this may give you what your after. The Fanatec recommended settings gives you loads of FFB but no detail and I think detail is more important than loads of FFB, you can tell what the car is doing if you have detail and you will probably be faster as well.
If you have lots of fancy wheel settings put smoothing on 0 so the wheel settings can work with the proper data. Using smoothing and wheel settings is a bad idea. I've heard some DD users using some smoothing (1-4) to reduce some of the excessive graininess, for gears I would go up to 10 or so to reduce noise. Anything higher is pointless. @mesfigas I don't know what you're on sometimes
@Karei i tried ffb smooth at zero and FFB min torque at zero aswell if you drive good without spins etc there is no rattling even after many laps around sebring with porsche cup dont drive at ffb smooth at 16 you loose all the detail set it at zero
CSL elite PS4 driver 373 FEI 60 Ferrari 488 gte Car specific ffb multi of 0.8 ffb smoothing 10 Ffb min torque 0.0% I might try dropping FEI to either 20, 10 or 0. Then drop ffb smoothing down to 0-3 range and see what happens.
If it can do any sort of smoothing itself, I would let the game output everything at full detail and then deal with it with the wheel settings as required. Or, make the wheel settings very simple (so don't do any smoothing) and do it with the game. As a general concept you shouldn't combine two lots of settings that do the same thing. What we see already in this thread is not just a wide range of opinions on smoothing, but people probably suffering from clipping in rF2 and then trying to use wheel settings to 'rebuild' that lost detail from clipping - that's also a poor substitute. Aim for clean rF2 output and then work out what to do with it at the wheel, if it needs anything.
hi, why using smoothing has nothing to do with rf2. I never had it before. (I think) but instead of this new driver 372 / 373. without smoothing after 10/15 laps graininess and cogging appears. I have to reboot the dd1 and the game. with smoothing i can run longer but i can't go more than 45 ffb and in game 38 (ex asr 1991) smoothig 10 if it is for 4 the problems appear. I wait for the new driver. but with this I discovered that smoothing conveys a different and good feeling.
I thought the vast majority of simracers used a smoothing of 0 (or 1), except for the very old models of steering wheels. This thread proves that this is not the case.
