I've over a 1000 hours recorded in game since the switch to Steam and my T500RS kit is working just fine. The power brick is never turned completely off, either.
We should do a poll/survey about failures per wheel brands. May be useful for people intending to buy new wheel.
I currently own a Logitech G29 which I have had for 21/2 yrs without any problems. I am thinking of buying a Fanatec Club Sport 2.5 wheel, it would be a big investment for me because I am retired and only have my pension. I can't afford to have a unreliable wheel. So your suggestion would be of great help to me.
Had.my t300 for about 3 years Great wheel Touch wood ha. Only thing went wrong is the clamp lost its thread so drilled 2 holes In to my desk. Works a treat
You will hear nightmare stories on all mass produced wheels because there’s so many out there, you only really hear off people who have problems with certain wheels, not the ones who don’t. I think the t300 is the only wheel to buy before you go dd
Just 1 thing I immediately thought of when I read Daves post. On switch on/PC startup there will often be some voltage spiking on the USB ports. Its worse on some MB/PSU combinations but even on a serious and wellknown MB and PSU it can happen. At least if you are unlucky that the device connected to the USB port isnt fully protected against this. In this situation then one day shit happens. I know it from the handcontrolled wheel SRW-S1 because I saw a guy describing how the producer of the wheel had replaced his wheel 4 times(at no cost). Replaced because of grilling Eventhough the wheel was replaced for free the guy was complaining that it wasnt the MB that was the reason but the lousy wheel. I came up with the idea to him about the mandatory USB spikes because there could be a design protection issue with the wheel. Ofcourse the guy denied it could have something with his puter to do But from then on I allways started the PC first - and then when everything was go I connected the SRW. Hehe ofcourse I forgot to do that about 2 years later! The result was that both the wheel and the USB port was grilled that day. Nothing fancy - but both was dead. Dead as a dodo. So you can probably guess the mandatory sequence I goes through EVERY TIME I start the puter.
I have in the region of 6000 hrs plus on my Logitech G29 wheel with no problems. I replaced the pedals with a set of Fanatec CSL Loadcell which have been working fine for about 10 months.
The good news is Thrustmaster is going to take the wheel/power supply in for warranty repairs. This will take about a month I figure to ship, repair and reship.
My servo base is fine, I just can't get any power to it. Once I box it up and send it in, they'll test both, say the servo unit is fine and then send it back with a new power supply. (at least I HOPE that is what happens)
I'm not sure why Thrustmaster can't seem to include a reliable power supply - if I were in your shoes I'd simply get an appropriately sized power supply and not bother with whatever Thrustmaster uses. In general, power is power - if the supply provides the correct voltage with enough current all will be well. I'd grab one rated for significantly more current than required to assure it is not being taxed. You can re-use the connectors from one of your dead supplies if matching the connector is a problem. I'd keep this in mind when the new power supply they send dies.
Im running 75% overall. In the sim (FFB mult) it ranges between 60-90-ish depending on how strong the individual FFB is per car. As low "smoothing" as possible. Usually lands on "1" to get rid of scrapes or "buzz" that some cars can have. Minimum torque is between 2-8% depending on car. For non-DD wheels that value is important to catch initial FFB forces that reacts slower on non-DD wheels.