Just me again, Does the T300RS not have any control panel with forces like Logitech has? Trying to get the best FFB for rF2 but so far all i have is the in game settings. Anyone know if there are any tricks, progs, apps or similar to get the best FFB out of rF2 with this wheel? Cheers!
Official thrustmaster site then download the thrustmaster control panel. Then set like this : - Overall forces : 75 (standard) or 100% (I prefer 100% for T300) - Constant and periodic 100% - Spring and damper 0% Ingame : - Approximately 2% for minimum force - FFB multi : I know I have some clipping but I prefer like this : 1.30 for the majority of cars. controller.ini in player folder : - offroad multiplier = 1 (100%), not 0.3 (30%) Download latest T300 firmware.
Oh wow how did i miss that! I downloaded the drivers but saw nothing else but manuals... I did get the latest firmware cause it pops up in the installation. Thanks man!
Hmm looking at their list of downloads and i cant find the control panel? EDIT: No, im a dummy. I have the control panel, but its just one of those standard windows looking things with "calibrate" and nothing more. No fancy sliders and FFB settings. I have to dig around a bit more.
https://support.thrustmaster.com/fr/product/t300servobase-fr/ Go to " Drivers " download " DRIVERS FORCE FEEDBACK (Package 2018_TTRS_2) + Firmware "
I found it. Was already installed lol. It looked like something else and not like the control panel that can set FFB etc.
BTW in the control panel when i set to 1080 degrees it will not let me steer to 1080 degrees fully. When i set it to 900 (default) then it works to steer fully left right. With 1080 degrees it stops maybe 2,5% earlier. Why? This is 1080 degree wheel after all. Strange. EDIT: Made the changes and removed dampening, and damn the wheel feels awesome now. Cheers @DrivingFast for the settings and help.
Leave all the control panel as default, especially the gain settings, if you put that to 100% you will burn the motor out. You don’t ever need to go into the control panel to adjust degrees of rotation either. If you press mode and either either left or right d-pad, the light will flash and change the deg rotation for you. Also force the fan on full, can’t remember how but it helps stop ffb fade on long races. All the info can be found on the thrustmaster website where you downloaded the driver, either in the manual pdf download or an additional pdf download
Hello @patchedupdemon . Before I had a T500, and the FFB strength was perfect for me. Really not to complain. I changed to the T300 thinking it was "approximately" the same strength with at least the same quality : but not at all it's day and night, really ! To be very precise : - On the majority of cars on RF2 the OVERALL FORCE in the Thrustmaster control panel was on the standard value (60%), associated ingame has a multi FFB of 1. - The equivalent to have the same strength as with the T500 and the parameters given above is for the T300 (approximately) : OVERALL FORCE in the Thrustmaster control panel at 100% (75% is the standard value) associated with a multi-ingame FFB of 1.3 for most cars on RF2. If I leave the standard values, the T300 is just a toy, really a toy, much less powerful than a G27 I had. With these settings I know that I have a little clipping, but I assume, I prefer to have a little clipping that to have a steering wheel too weak, when we do not have the financial means, it is better find a compromise rather than erase those sensations. All I wanted was the equivalent of the T500, and only these values allow it. I said that my T300 is brand new and in good condition, I tested a brand new just before this purchase, and it was the same. By cons what interests me @patchedupdemon is what you said about the deterioration of the T300 when it is 100% : ---> Do you have a source, because I did not find anything on the French web and also on the English web ? Thank you.
When I was at iracing, for years, there was many people saying their t300 just stopped working, the motor had gone, and I’d say around 80% of them were running gain at 100%. The t300 isn’t as powerful as a t500, it’s just smoother, so you really shouldn’t expect to get the same power, and it’s way more powerful than my old g27. Really there was no point in going from a t500 to a t300 if power is what you was after
I wanted about the same thing, or up to -20% less. That's what I read, but I'm disappointed because the difference in power seems in practice much more important.
So should we leave the overall FFB at 75%? It really didnt feel good at that level. Even DFGT has stronger light to mid FFB effects when T300 is at 75%. Most tracks in rF2 on DFGT made my arms shake from uneven dips/bumps (even small ones) in the tarmac while T300 i can feel them but the FFB isnt strong enough to move my arms. I did set the T300 to 100% but then i though that maybe that isnt good and i rolled it back to 90%, and that seems to be good. Still, i do love that the T300 has much stronger and faster autocenter which is important to catch slides better. Im gonna check how to set to the fan to 100%, thanks @patchedupdemon
I found how to turn the fan ON at all times, but not to change its speed. BTW i cant figure out what button they mean with "ST*": Simultaneously press the “ST*” and “MODE” buttons I have no button called "ST" something.
I do not know about the excessive wear of the steering wheel, but the clipping that I had with my settings was excessive (overall force thrustmaster 100% and 1.3 in coefficient multiplier). I keep 100% for the overall strength but I put 1.00 coefficient multiplier. This compromise is much better, even if the FFB is slightly weak. I also forced the mode "forced cooling" (manual in pdf on the site of thrustmaster). The other settings that I described before are very good and a lot of people use them.
Look i wrote above you right now a second before you replied. I cant find what they mean with "ST*" button? EDIT: Seems its nr8 button.
Go to "support", search your steering wheel by keyword (ex: 458 GTE wheel), and look for the pdf manual that shows what buttons correspond and where they are.
@DrivingFast even if in the default setup the gain is at 75 i read somewhere on the internet that the recomended by Thrustmaster is 60 i understand that you like solid FFB feel no matter if youa re clipping but isnt he best choise i strongly advise after a lot of test that 60 Gain at Thrustmaster CP and Gain at 1.0 from RF is the best option. clipping is not good no matter how much seconds you gain per lap.
I tested tonight my new setting, and I find it excellent for now, so see over the next few weeks. The FFB of the T300 is perfectly linear at 100%, wheelcheck always brings erroneous conclusions : a guy on the internet did the test with real material, and contrary to what says wheelcheck the T300 is linear at all levels (topic on racedepartment I think). My setting for reminder: gain 100, RF2 1.0. But thank you for your answer, I'll think about it.
Your wheel software can't un-clip the output, so 1.0 in rF2 will be clipping in a lot of cars. Depends what you're looking for of course; I think the levels at 1.0 produce some clipping but on cheap wheels it keeps the overall strength quite high, which feels better than weak forces that don't clip at all. @DrivingFast I know the test you're referring to, and I think it definitely should be considered because a lot of the time the force you actually feel is a static force, or a low-speed force, and in that scenario I think pretty much every wheel will output force in a linear relationship with the input value from the game/PC - it's a function of electric motors. Probably shouldn't entirely dismiss the effect of current speed on output force though, and I guess that's where wheelcheck might be a bit more relevant. (but it doesn't exclusively test this either, so I don't pay much attention to its results) So in that regard I agree on the 100% if you want strong forces, and I use the same on my T500, but being careful to avoid clipping. If there is a danger of burning out the motor with excessive forces clipping will only make it worse by continuing for periods at full output instead of only peaking there. This is very dependent on the car, sometimes I need to drop down to 0.70 or even 0.65, while other cars are barely hitting maximum with 1.10 or 1.15. For that reason I'd avoid sticking to one number, use the vehicle specific as just that and check using whatever method you find easiest (telemetry, …).
Intresting, everything I’ve read, including a thread on here by Spinelli said that using 100% gain isn’t linear and boosts the low end forces. Will have a look at this RaceDepartment thread.
