I have switched from a G27 to a Fanatec Forza CSR wheel. I kept the same FFB settings with a few small tweaks, but sometimes I feel like it might be possible to improve them, especially since the motor system between the 2 wheels are a bit different. So does anyone perhaps have some good Controller.JSON settings that they've tried specifically on this wheel, or for any Fanatec wheel with the same motor system? I'm all for experimenting, and if you really believe your settings are working better than default/G27 settings, let's hear it. Thanks.
Disable damping in Fanatec control panel. Damping to 0/off in wheel's menu settings. FF never below 100% in wheel's menu settings. DRI to whatever number removes any artificial slowing down or speeding up of the wheel. This is 3 with the CSW V2, so I'm guessing the same with the CSR. Maybe for the CSR - sometimes and in certain situations - 1 click on the "boost" mode which, for the CSW V2, would be 4 but generally speaking, try none which probably equates to the setting 3. RFactor 2's in-game smoothing set to 0. A bit of steering torque minimum. Your choice. Probably 2 or 3 % (0.02 or 0.03) but could be more could be less. Try to press "detect" in the RF2 control panel. The RF2 default FFB settings are 99#% the sane between all the different presets anyways so this is hardly important but it'll set any FFB back to default settings I believe. Then from there just disable the in-game smoothing (which is one of the only things that differs between different RF2 FFB presets, along with the FFB direction of course [normal/reversed]). Make sure you're not clipping. The RF2 pedal overlay helps with this but it only tells you about software clipping from RF2's side regardless of your wheel and what it's (your wheel) doing, capable of, and not capable of. You can see what I mean by raising the wheel's FOR menu setting down to 10% or cranked to 150%; the in-game clipping meter doesn't change. P.S. The Fanatec CSR rim is one of my favorite rims ever. The shape, size, feel, everything. Besides the Thrustmaster TX, I think the Fana CSR is definitely the best "affordable" wheel on the market.
My CSR Settings: Wheel settings: SEn=900 | FF=80 | Sho=000 | dri =4 | ABS =000 | Lin =000 | dEA =000 | SPr =off | DPr =off | ACL =off Fanatec Tool: 900 Degrees, 0% Dampening
A word of advice... A Fana wheel-menu FF setting of below 100% actually "erases" all forces above a certain power threshold. For example, 80% FF doesn't actually lower overall FFB by 20% (from 100% to 80%), instead, it keeps all the FFB from 0%-80% the same as before and then just completely cuts off all FFB above 80%. Basically all that's happening is the top 20% of FFB is being prevented from being sent to you. That is why the FF should always be kept on 100%. If you want to lower or raise your FFB, use the in-game setting or the wheel's FOR setting. BTW, what's ACL again? What about your FOR setting?
CSR dont have FOR and ACL is and automatic clutch mode... Personally i dont feel a difference when lowering the ffb ingame or at the wheel. I have it set to 80 to have a little bit room for adjustments on the track while driving
DRI is drift mode which is basically like power steering 0=Off No assistance. 1-5 is added power steering. That's my understanding.
Maybe it's different with the CSR, but with the CSW v2 it's - "0"/"off" = artificial resistance added, slowest and least responsive - "1" = less artificial resistance added but still there - "2" - even less artificial resistance added but still there - "3" = apparently (and it seems like it to me as well) no artificial resistance or boosting added, just the pure natural wheel and game's FFB - "4" = artificial boosting added. The effect sometimes feels like your FFB settings are reversed because the FFB often rotates in the same direction as you turn the wheel rather than resisting you - "5" = The most artificial boosting added. That's what I've gathered from lots of research as-well as my own experience. It's kind of stupid; instead of 0, 1. 2, 3, 4, 5, it should be -3, -2, -1, 0, +1, +2 (or just 1, 2 without the "+" sign). I think some models do infact use the negative, 0, and positive numbering scheme. I think the CSW v1 may, but the CSW v2 definitely doesn't for some reason. Weird. If the CSR's "FF" setting is like the CSW then setting it to 80% means you're not receiving the entire top 20% of any and all FFB from the game. Anything that registers as above 80% FFB will get "ignored"/"thrown out" by the wheel. It's like you have a constant mute button but for just the forces that would normally be above 80% while anything under 80% get's played at the exact same volume as before (rather than everything scaling down). Whatever floats your boat , obviously you can do whatever you want but I just wanted to make it clear for you for your own good
The CSR menu is like GT3RS V2 menu, Mystamagoo is right: 0=Off No assistance. 1-5 is added power steering.
Are you sure? I owned a CSR before my T500RS, and DRI 0/off seemed overly slow as if the wheel was slower than it naturally was (sort of like DRI modes 0/off, 1, and 2 for the CSW V2 [a few posts above])...
Text from the CSR manual: Drift Mode (DRI) When "Drift Mode" is enabled, the wheel has less dampening which allows for quicker turning. This setting is useful for "drifting" or cars that require quick inputs. This can be adjust in increments of 1, from 1 to 5, 5 being quickest, or least amount of dampening. Or you can set to off to have full dampening. V2: DRI range: OFF 000 … 005 DRI default: OFF The drift mode reduces the overall resistance of the wheel and let you turn the wheel more easily. It almost works like a power steering. It reduces the basic dampening of the wheel and makes the wheel turn faster. If the values is set too high (or if the games FFB interferes with this feature) you might experience some oscillation. If that happens - reduce the value or turn DRI “OFF” again. To change the used and active value press up or down direction at the FunkySwitchTM of the Fanatec Steering Wheel or turn the FunkySwitchTM clockwise / counter clockwise
From 1 to 5 feels like the motor runs over the natural dampening of the wheel in the GT3RS V2 (a heaviest CSR), it´s weird, nothing like my old G27 or a T300 with the damper and spring disabled in profiler, it´s like a power steering? yes, feels like a power steering over the rF2 FFB. And the sentence "or if the games FFB interferes with this feature" seems like something added to the games FFB by the wheel, like damper and spring can be added too. I hope I explained well.
Ya, it's really weird and vague. You could interpret both the CSR's and CSW V2's explanation as the same thing (lower # = more dampening, slower reactions, higher # = less dampening and quicker reactions). With my CSR, DRI @ 0/off didn't feel like the "pure" wheel; you could really feel the damping (mushy) and over-slowness of the wheel. The CSR was naturally much more "free" than it seemed when DRI was set to 0/off. Also, 4 and 5 felt just like the CSW V2 where it's over-boosting the FFB in the same direction as you turn (almost as if you have your FFB set reversed, the FFB turns in the same direction you initially turn rather than resisting you and wanting to centre).
Did you have dampening strength 'active' in the fanatec control panel? spr and dpr on the wheel menu? there is a difference with 0 and off although you wouldn't think so.....
Ya, spring and damper always off in wheel and control panel. This was 2-2.5 years ago though, maybe something changed with the Fana drivers or firmware since then regarding DRI mode numbering. P.S. Years later and I still haven't found 1 explanation on the difference between the wheel's onboard damper setting and the wheel's control panel's.
