Guide: Optimal FFB settings for rFactor 2 - The key to being in the "Zone" :D

That's an odd problem you've got there Axe.

Well, by oscillating i mean exactly that. The steering wheel will constantly keep turning direction and increasing the STM (nice shortie btw) beyond the deadzone sweetspot will increase the big the amplitude of the oscillations.

But none of the above is relevent atm because you have this in your wheel already which is odd. Did you make sure to set the STM value to 5 decimal places? (e.g. 5% cannot be 0.5% but must be 0.50000 same as 0% must be 0.00000).

Do you have any wheel centering enabled in the fanatec profiler? Just to test....when your stationary, does your wheel perform an unstable (i.e. self-perpetuating) oscillation motion if you induce a slide nudge of the steering wheel in either direction. Also is this the same when in motion?

 

1. Wheel oscillation can be seen perfectly at 25secs into this video:

Basically this happening at standstill means that the STM is too high.

I have CSW, same driver settings, but I have Dri = 1 on the wheel and Force = 120. I have found the STM to be suitable around 0.01450, which results in a slight vibration in teh wheel on standstill without any oscillation. Most my FFB multipliers are between 0.7-0.75, although there are a few cars at 0.8 and the new Karts at 1.0.

 

Apart from the kart value, are you serious? Or did you mean 0.7-0.75???

Axe, here's a video with the STM set 3 times higher (9%) than my sweetspot value (3%).

 

lol

yeah sorry, 0.7-0.75

 

lol, ok. I can take my insanity spectacles off now.

 

thanks for your replies
nothing like that showed in the videos. it is softer and quicker, it is more like vibrating than oscillating in my case.
I am pretty sure the values had correct decimal places but...
you know, when I ask you whether you locked your car you answer yes. when I ask second time you start thinking...
the best will be to make a short video. Hope I will be able to do it tomorrow evening to show you my little problem...

 

So in summary are we saying I can/should keep increasing the minimum torque value until I get stationary oscillation, then reduce a little to stop the oscillation?

Also does this value effect any of my other FFB settings? Will I get more clipping whilst travelling at higher speeds? Or is this new FFB line of code totally independent?


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LOL!

 

Yes to 1st question and No to 2nd and 3rd question.

Steering torque minimum is indeed independent but the "car-specific ffb multi" ingame is a little bit dependent on the "steering torque minimum" value. If you increase the ffb multiplier then the torque minimum remains the same relative to the virtual steering wheel forces but will increase the torque minimum relative to your ffb wheel (if that makes any sense?) So if you found (for example) that an ffb multi of "0.7" with torque minimum of 3% was the perfect combination but then later increased the ffb multi to "0.8", this would raise the effective torque minimum experienced at your wheel by the same proportional amount. In this case, "0.7" to "0.8" is a 14% increase and whilst you've not changed the torque minimum value it will be still be effectively raised 14% at your ffb wheel (so 3% to 3.43%) because increasing ffb multi value increases the strength of all forces. And of course if you had set it up so it was just under the oscillation cliff-edge, you could end up with being over that edge again.

The most ideal solution which unfortunately does not exist, is to have a minimum torque setting in our wheel profiler provided by the manufacture. But that's just dreaming.

 

Steering torque minimum doesn't increase the high end forces, only low end forces. Also you should do as you said to find the right value.

 

Cheers for clearing that up guys


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Although I suppose that means if you set your torque minimum to "the cliff" ( I liked this expression), then you will have to constantly edit this value dependant of the car you are driving and it's FFB multi setting?!?


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Well, technically yes if you keep changing the ffb multi for the same car but i now only change the ffb value by a few percent around the sweet spot value that avoids clipping for each car so it makes very little impact (if at all) on my torque minimum value.

Secondary, having quite different ffb multi values for different cars isn't a problem as the torque minimum is the same for each because if you tailor the ffb multi value per car to avoid clipping, you've then setup each car to output the same range of forces. Same range of forces means the same amount of deadzone too, so it's generally the same torque minimum for each car which is mighty convenient.

 

That actually makes complete sense, cheers...


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What do you guys think about the "Steering resistance type= // 0=use damping, 1=use friction"? Seems to make a difference in feel.

 

Someone commented that it only made the wheel feel a little notching changing it to friction.

 

Hey!

Since I'm having here a rather aggressive oscilliating (even stationary) I have a little question:

As I understood so far this behaviour is caused by a STM which is set too high and/or a centralizing force from the profiler, right? What can I do if both is not the case??!

I'm quite frustrated for the last days because _suddenly_ this oscilliating occured with nothing really having altered in the settings. I updated from rFactor2 B38x to B590 but even with a clean install the behavior is the same. I also reinstalled the complete driver and profiler (with revo uninstaller...)

I have STM set to "0.00000" and the Logitech Profiler has only ffb enabled with centralizing force ticked but set to zero... (? ;'( )

btw: Logitech Formula Force EX here ;D

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Hmm, that's strange. Does it start it's own oscillation even when stationary like the video I uploaded?

http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.p...all-FFB-users!?p=261464&viewfull=1#post261464

 

Yes sadly. When I load a race the oscilliation starts even without touching the wheel. Somewhere In my procedure I had enabled the centralizing force for testing purposes . I will try a complete clean up of the profiler and registry again now. I hope there is a bug in the profiler/registry since the latest profiler software is dated to 2010 ...

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With 0=use damping, it feels more like realfeel (body/suspensions feeling)
With 1=use friction, it feels more based on grip (like rF1) and you feel better the front tire understeer and body movements are less felt.

That's I noticed in testing this parameter with my G25.