It was not even mentioned in changelog, was it? But I've been driving driving Brabham only for a few days and it's simply amazing! At Sebring in the rain, or Spa and Monaco in the dry... I don't know what to say, it's amazing. I can't tell what's different from earlier builds, but I had to increase FFB strengh too, and I could lower the filtering.
I decided to do a clean install last night using the 'Lite' installer. This time I'm only installing component files in my packages folder and will wait for all the old ISI content to be updated. Not dealing with rfmod files as it's a mess. I'm missing a load of content in the meantime but it's neater this way.
Last night at Heartland Park I discovered the tweaks to the FFB- and yes, it is awesome! I came out to track edge on one lap and realized I had placed the Z perfectly because I felt this very subtle vibration when I brushed the edge of the track! Then I began to pay attention and realized just how much better the FFB is in this build. Great stuff.
I don't think anything has changed in the ffb, there is nothing in the release notes Maybe your getting slightly better fps performance thus making the ffb more fluid etc ???
I used Marussia with 80 ffb strong at my g25 profiler. With 198 I use 100 ffb strong to get the same resistance. Same with Spark F2, I used 60 and now Im using 80. There is definately a change in ffb with new build.
CONTROLLER/FFB: ———————— Added controls to increase/decrease FOV (find the mappings under the 'SEAT' tab, not the 'CAMERA' tab). New Controller.ini variable "Reset Steering Wheel Range Time" feature to fix the steering wheel range (to fix issue with Logitech wheels losing track randomly.) Doubled the default value for controller.ini variable "Off-road multiplier" to counteract reduced off-road terrain bumpiness values and also because tire parameters have been refined over time.
Keep in mind that what you see in realtime hud are tire surface temperatures. They're pretty dynamic, but it doesn't mean temperature and pressure inside of tire changes so rapidly. If you overheat tire surface once, you can expect it to get back to normal quickly. If you keep overheating tire surface often, you can expect temperatures inside tire to get higher as well and tire surface will not cool down so easily. If you happen to overheat tire in one corner - take it easy in next one. Give tire a rest and it will both cool down quicker and not wear off so fast. Of course it's best not to overheat tires, but it's sometimes difficult to avoid. Take turn 1 in Poznan for example - you want to exit it very fast, even if it means overheating left front, because there's passing opportunity in next corner. And since two following corners are left-handers, your left front will have some time to rest.
Thanks for the reply K Szczech, just so I don't get dog piled by the forum I want to state that this is only my assumption here. I'm no pro racer even if rF2 makes me feel like one and, sorry, doing my best to keep the response short. The first thing I thought was perhaps I'm driving the car too aggressively and I need to dial it down some. I can work around it as you suggest but my point is that we probably shouldn't have to be this careful in a GT class racecar. Downforce plays a large role in the tire management for open wheelers and since GTs don't generate that level of downforce the tires shouldn't go off as quick. The type of tire is also very important. e.g. I watch a lot of motorsports over the years and open wheelers have to manage their tires carefully. Just the past Indy race at Barber that was said to the race leader. Schumy complained a fair amount last year in F1 about the Pirelli tires and how drivers couldn't push hard with them thus affecting the faster guys. Part of this is done on purpose by Pirelli to add some dynamic content to the races. In GT racing, this is still a concern obviously, but those guys drive the absolute crud out of their cars and sometimes double stint their tires. The Corvette race team does this a fair amount. In-car race cams shows those guys just hammering those cars lap after lap. The last FIA GT race in France a week ago, the drivers attacked non stop for 30 minutes before they had to pit. I can duplicate this in rF2 but for only a short time. Again, lots of different variables but doing high 50s avg at LimeRock with uphill chicane, that is moving well but I should be able to keep that pace for longer than 7 laps. I would think I could do this for a good 20 laps or more. The C6R should have durable and grippy Michelin's but it feels like (just my opinion) I have some very F1 modeled moody Pirelli's.
I also get that grey instead of black issue on my cars,namely the F1Ligue 2013 mod but turning HDR on doesn't solve it, any ideas?
I`ve noticed something with b198... I`ve always had buttons mapped for the cams for screens etc. Various buttons for various camera functions, two being the F key - Cam Zoom In. The G key - Cam Zoom Out. Since b198 came along with the new FOV functions the two aforementioned keys and their functions no longer work for me... all the other camera buttons that I`ve mapped still work fine but the F and G just don`t function any more... I`ve tried remapping them but still no joy. I can still zoom in and out using the new FOV buttons but that obviously messes up the in car FOV when I return to the car. Anybody else noticed this?
Maylasia with HDR -it doesn't work each time i enter the sim, unless I fiddle with the HDR selection each time Is it just my pc or same for everyone? (Thus a bug)
Yes, I think so. I've noticed zoom in and out doesn't work anymore with certain cameras. I think it works with 'Spectator mode' (End key) but not when entering 'Free move' mode directly from TV cam, or swingman cam etc. But I'm not sure, because I think I sometimes actually is able to use zoom from these cameras too But yes, something's happened to this function... But when using Spectator mode I'm sure it always works
Same here. Anyway it required to switch ( profiles ) once back and forth before the selected profile is active.