Jos, all i do is set my 3d page in the nvidia control panel as follows: Each time i start a game it automatically turns on 3D which momentarily turns the monitor black as it enables lightboost mode. Then i simply turn the 3D mode off by the hot key "Ctrl+T" and 3d in game is disabled but lightboost remains on. also, make sure your game is set to 120hz in the graphics menu or else 3D may enable but lightboost may not.
i know how I enable lightboost, the problem is that stereoscopic 3d eats my framerate, it went from 120+ to 70ish which makes lightboost useless. i like standard 120 hz though very nice improvement from 60 hz.
Ok, that's strange. I never tested with stereoscopic 3D off in the nvidia menu though. But I have read (not rfactor2 specific) that due to some call overhead, there could be a very _slight_ performance hit when stereoscopic 3D is on (although turned off in game). FPS from 120 to 70 seems very strange.
Yep it caused big hit for me too in the past before figuring out how to prevent it. It's like rF2 is still doing all the 3D stuff under the hood after Ctrl+T is pressed. That's why it's important to get monitor into 2D LightBoost mode and Stereoscopic 3D off before rF2 is launched. Maybe ISI would be able to fix the framerate hit but bet it would be very low priority.
Ok, i have experienced exactly that before but not anymore and can't remember what i did (if anything actually) to solve the problem all together. I do remember noticing the performance hit and opening fraps to see the fps and then hitting Ctrl+T until the fps fixed itself to how it should be in 2D mode. Have you tested other programs/games to see if this is or is not isolated to rfactor 2? edit: Hitting Crtl+T should be turning off the 3D rendering mode completely but for some reason as you've described it's only hiding the 3D rendering result whilst still running in the background which is not returning your fps to normal.
Hi guys, As you know I have a VG278h display and i can run games in 2D with lightboost enabled, however i can't seem to get the 2D lightboost to work in games after disabling "Enable stereoscopic 3D" and clicking apply (reason for wanting so to follow). Immediately after disabling "Enable stereoscopic 3D" and applying this, the lightboost does stay enabled on the desktop until i load up a game and then it reverts back to non-lightboost mode. Strange thing is if i then quit the game and go back to the desktop, it's in 2D lightboost mode. I tried the non VG278h approach of adding the ForceLightBoostWithoutGlasses registry hack and also the VG278h override ini...no change. http://www.blurbusters.com/zero-motion-blur/lightboost/ has an optional section.. ..and as i said before, after disabling "Enable stereoscopic 3D" lightboost stayed enabled and my desktop did not flicker. Does anyone have a solution please or can see i've missed a step out? I really want to be able to enable lightboost without having to go through the process of pressing "Ctrl+T" each time i load a game as this adds an fps loss because 3D vision is still running in the background (albeit a relatively small percentage fps loss but can be significant if you play a game on very high gfx settings where every fps counts).
Some good news! There's a new, MUCH EASIER METHOD of enabling LightBoost. ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility Method Click the link that says "ToastyX" to follow the new instructions. Also, it bears worth posting some new photographs of motion blur: Also, a new Blur Busters article: From article: Motion Blur Comparison: 60Hz versus 120Hz versus LightBoost.
Some good news! There's a new, MUCH EASIER METHOD of enabling LightBoost. Easy ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility Method No more need to use Control+T! Click the link that says "ToastyX" to follow the new instructions. Also, it bears worth posting some new photographs of motion blur: PHOTOS: Motion Blur Comparison: 60Hz versus 120Hz versus LightBoost. Mark Rejhon
Oh man I'm so sucked in and made up by 3D in rfactor2 and the right 3D settings(5 clicks from right for depth and a high convergance) coupled with my Trackir I am so in the game I can visualise speed and distance tons better more so than I think the benefits of 0 motion blur can give you. I am acheiving 70fps at max settings generally which is defo in the zone for reaction time if it takes just under 300ms for the brain to respond and translate I figure 70 - 80 fps is the golden amount anymore is obviously better but negligable. The new ingame AA transparency in build 218 has really helped improve my framerate compared to nVidia solution + a few little tweaks in nVidia inspector and using latest nV driver I have found the sweet spot I can honestly say I lovin the graphics now. But yeah I still want more FPS, the only thing that I can think of that needs improving slightly is AA on white edge lines but I think ISI will do it no probs. For all those people complaining get a GTX680 with the right settings and then tell me it dont look good. Oh yeah btw I've temporarly gone back to only 1 screen right now, I'd hate to see what 3 screens FPS is like under these ace settings I've found.
Absolutely brilliant! Thank you mdrejhon, now it works. KeiKei, if your not already using this and haven't figured out how to get 144Hz on your desktop with the hack, i'm pretty sure you can do it with this software. You can add extra resolution and refresh rate settings. The default only adds 100, 110 and 120hz and so i'm trying to add an extra one with say 90 or 95hz so i can turn off lightboost for when I'm on the desktop. I'm just not sure what to set the "Back porch" value to as that seems to be the only changing factor between the resolutions.
OOOPS! I see a duplicate of my post. Apologies. My first post somehow did not show up, so I reposted by accident. (I refreshed my browser, and viola. Strange) Yep! Just add 144Hz using "Reduced" timings in ToastyX, and you get 144Hz back! Not LightBoost, but you can now keep LightBoost 120Hz, and non-LightBoost 144Hz. Switch between the two to turn on/off LightBoost. -- You can even use tools such as Entechtaiwan.com's multires.exe system tray utility to do easy click 120/144Hz mode switches. -- And yes, if you can't support 144Hz, you can do 90Hz or 96Hz as your non-LightBoost mode. -- Or you can even create a 119Hz non-LightBoost mode (119Hz works) in the Custom Resolution Utility; just make sure you use a smaller Vertical Total such as 1125 instead of 1149. Use "Automatic" and it will calculate the Back Porch for you. Just enter the resolution and refresh, the numbers will fill in automatically. Only 144Hz requires "Reduced" instead of "Automatic".
mdrejhon....you are a god-send. edit: Just tried the 119hz method and it works flawlessly! Really happy! Now i can regain that 10% fps loss....Thank you!
I have used this method successfully. Everything looks amazing, but my Benq XL2411T shows no option to regulate LightBoost. How can graduate the effect then? In the post I've read say there is difference in input lag generated 10% or 90%. The method of toasty, fixes a certain percentage? I have puzzled ....
The good news is that the new ToastyX method eliminates this disadvantage. Zero loss of framerate. -- Easier -- More stable -- No Control+T -- No loss of framerate -- Less input lag -- VSYNC OFF is now possible! Try the brand new ToastyX LightBoost tweak! Easy ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility Method
That's your monitor OSD. Open your monitor menus, find the "LightBoost" setting in the same on-screen menu as "Contrast"/"Brightness" and adjust. I have an XL2411T *and* VG278H and it is there, on both. You may need to scroll the menu downwards to reveal the LightBoost setting below the bottom edge of the screen. You will have less motion blur with lower LightBoost settings. The picture will become darker, but you get even less motion blur with LightBoost=50% or LightBoost=10%. On some monitors, the Brightness physical bezel button (up arrow on ASUS monitors) becomes the LightBoost adjust button whenever LightBoost is enabled. Use this to quickly adjust LightBoost. During night, in a dark room, LightBoost=10% is perfect and it's got clearer motion than a Sony GDM-W900 widescreen CRT. Not very bright. But the brightness is perfect in a dark room at night. Some people won't like the dimness, though. I use LightBoost=50% during the daytime, and LightBoost=10% during night. If you want a brighter picture, raise the LightBoost setting. If you can't notice the difference, stay at LightBoost=100%. Not everyone can see the difference between LightBoost=10% versus LightBoost=100%. The photograph I took above, is of LightBoost=50%. The percentages do not affect input lag at all. However, different settings do -- Enabling 3D Stereoscopic adds input lag and reduces framerate. The beauty of the new ToastyX method reduces the minor LightBoost input lag to the minimum possible. There's a smidgen, but it's not noticeable -- and the competitive advantage of the lack of motion blur now massively outweighs the tiny leftover input lag (after the major cause is fixed -- elimination of needing Control+T eliminates the major input lag issue -- this is done by following the Easy ToastyX Custom Resolution Utility Method). This is simply because you're eliminating your human brain lag caused by motion blur. Zero motion blur means no slow human reaction time caused by motion blur. That is why it still feels faster, despite the tiny leftover LightBoost input lag (after the major cause of LightBoost input lag is fixed: disabling 3D stereoscopic completely). P.S. Don't forget you need a GPU powerful enough for 120fps@120Hz or 100fps@100Hz Mismatches between fps/Hz can add motion blur (e.g. double edge effect at 60fps@120Hz) or adds harmonic effects (e.g. beat frequency -- e.g. 118fps@120Hz causes 2 stutters per second). So aim to hit 120fps (or greatly exceed). If you are a "perfect zero motion blur" snob, then I highly recommend VSYNC ON where possible (at 120Hz, the input lag isn't a big tradeoff). Adaptive VSYNC also has less input lag. That said, the ToastyX method allows you to do VSYNC OFF -- if you really wanted (Tearing during LightBoost is easy to see, unless you uncap your framerate to some insane level). Find a satisfying compromise for FPS shooters. But for simple car racing, VSYNC ON lag during 120Hz is usually not noticeable at all.
Thank you very much for your reasoned response. The truth is that I have days doing many tests and I think I have reached a very good compromise in terms of graphics and gameplay. My goal is to achieve 180/200 fps stable since that is when most feel the steering wheel. I have the feeling that fps / sensations are related beyond the 120/144 hz. As for vsync, so I have disabled for rfactor and driving games and adaptative to FPS. The question came to me that I never got to see on my monitor OSD the LightBoost indicator and I have a doubt whether I have it on or off. Thanks again and sorry for my poor English.
This is just brilliant. Played a hotlap replay (no other cars in sight) and the fps average in a 60 second test went from 124 to 137...exactly a 10% increase.
So the new improved easier method noted on post 149, 150 and 153 just makes it's easier and quicker to change between lightboost on/off, or does it actually affect performance? Where is this 10% improvement in frames coming from? Why 119hz/119fps rather than a "perfect" 120/120? Are some people now using no framerate lock, just making sure it's always at, or over, 119 (or 120) fps, with no negative effects? (From my understanding, before it was best to have the framerate locked). Sorry, I LOVE the 2d Lightboost gaming experience, but I don't own a capable monitor or video card yet, so it's hard for me to get a better understanding through first-hand experience.
