All Thrustmaster T500 rs owners come to this thread!!!

Discussion in 'Technical Archives' started by fedexpress, Jan 13, 2012.

  1. YoLolo69

    YoLolo69 Registered

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    65, 100, 100, 0, 0 here and all is fine with v41.

    What happen when testing the wheel forces in the T500RS configuration panel itself?
     
  2. Voltaic

    Voltaic Registered

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    Testing the forces works fine. It may be an issue with the latest rF2 build along with the new firmware. The wheel works fine, I just hate to have lost so much feel which was just amazing before. Have any in-rF2 settings changed?

    Thanks.
     
  3. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    I'm getting a T500 that is not registering. The power is fine, but it isn't recognized by windows regardless of USB port, Does anyone know anything about this, it might be a $5/5 minute fix, instead of having to deal with Thrustmaster warranty, sending wheel away, etc. Help please? I'm REALLY REALLY looking forward to using this wheel.
     
  4. YoLolo69

    YoLolo69 Registered

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    Spinelli, you mean Windows don't react when you plug it and the light bottom left don't work at all?

    Are you using a USB 3.0 port? If yes I suggest to use an USB 2.0, or better another computer which don't have any USB 3.0 port.

    Each time I updated firmware for my T500RS I lost it like if it was definitively dead. Each time I fixed this by using the bootloader process Thrustmaster describe, and an old laptop with USB 2.0 ports and Windows XP. After this the wheel worked fine on my desktop USB 3.0 port. I described this in post #113 from this same thread.
     
  5. Guy Moulton

    Guy Moulton Registered

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    Spinelli- try it on a different computer and see if it is recognized there. Try what yolo69 suggests too. But you should get something when you plug it in, you may have a dead wheel?
     
  6. YoLolo69

    YoLolo69 Registered

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    When my wheel was dead after each update Windows didn't reacted at all when I plugged it, no sound, no icon, no light, on Windows and on the wheel, strictly nothing. AFAIK the bootloader process say you need first to plug the USB while keeping pressed both buttons bottom right of the wheel (L3 & R3), power plug plugged, and here you get a first reaction from Windows...If nothing, change USB port or computer like we said. Like my desktop on Win7, the laptop with Win8, USB 3.0 and USB 2.0 didn't react too, only the old XP one with USB 2.0 only.
     
  7. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    Ok guys thanks I'll try and get back to you all. I pick up the wheel this Saturday. I bought it "AS IS". The guy said the wheel has power, it just isn't recognized on the computer when plugged in.
     
  8. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    Hey guys. I got the wheel.

    Installed drivers, plugged wheel into back usb 2.0 when the drivers told me too, finished the install and nothing.

    Held down L3 and R3 for 5 seconds withe USB unplugged, then plugged back in while still holding buttons down, nothing.

    Tried different USB port, nothing.

    Power brick does show the blue light so it seems fine.

    This sucks. Im going to call Thrustmaster right now.
     
  9. YoLolo69

    YoLolo69 Registered

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    Mmmm, just reading this now: it could still be the power supply, I mean a short cut in the cable between the block with the blue light, and the wheel. Don't put your tongue here to test it ;) but you could find a way to test if voltage goes out here using e.g. a voltmeter, or an old speaker by putting one of the wire inside the plug, and the other one touching and removing quickly outside the plug.
     
  10. Gridgirl

    Gridgirl Registered

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    This maybe a stupid question. Did the LED on the Wheelbase also glow?
    This LED should be red or green depending on the selected mode.
     
  11. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    The mode light is not on, how do you do that speaker test??
     
  12. YoLolo69

    YoLolo69 Registered

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    For the Speaker test the goal is to see if you have some voltage going out the power supply cable, the one which must be connected to the wheel, in case you don't have a voltmeter. You can use the speaker wires to connect quickly (don't stay longer than few micro seconds) to the end of the cable to see if membrane is moving. Kind of like this YT video (in your case the power supply will replace the 9V battery): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIMHGkxw72o

    You got the idea? ;) Ideally you need a voltmeter to be sure you have power and to know the value of this power.

    BTW don't be to scared by the mode light not ON. As I said, each time my wheel is "dead" and I need to recover it using the Bootloader sequence with my old laptop the light is also OFF until further in the process.
     
  13. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    Cool thanks I'm going to try that after work today
     
  14. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    Thrustmaster is going to send me a new PCB, so now that I can open it up I'm going to first do the speaker test and then check to see if the current PCB just simply may have a loose connection or something, I'll check back in a few hours.

    Oh and the USB on a different computer unfortunately didn't work
     
  15. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    Ok so the speaker test passed, so the entire power supply seems fine. I opened up to check the PCB but all wires were soldered that I could see on the various PCBs on the backside, no wire loose or anything, damn does this mean it's not a PCB problem?
     
  16. Spinelli

    Spinelli Banned

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    Sweet thanks for that Paul
     
  17. Guy Moulton

    Guy Moulton Registered

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    So I have my first major problem with my T500 :( The physical gas pedal will go all the way down but in-game it only registers as 7/8 throttle. When this happens the control panel game controllers applet shows the same thing.

    My wheel is out of warranty but when I called TM about it, they suggested I clean the unit (I had already taken it apart and done that- the pots are clean- that part of the pedals must be very well sealed because there was no dirt or grime in there!) and when I told them I had, they sent me a new pot! they call it a potentiometer even though I thought this was a pot-free design.

    So TM sent me the fix (I have to install it naturally) for free for a product out of warranty. THAT is customer service :)
     
  18. TIG_green

    TIG_green Registered

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    Any idea how to turn off auto center spring of my wheel? (wheel pulling itself heavily to center when I'm not turning, can't remember it being like this earlier)

    I have been driving without auto center spring and now it suddenly turned itself on (probably because I plugged it in wrong usb-port, plugged it back where it used to be but no change to this problem) and I don't find any setting to turn it off.

    Driving this way feels odd.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 30, 2013
  19. rixracer

    rixracer Registered

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    Did you replace it already? Maybe you need a clear calibration tool, or DXTweak, which lets you assign the calibration...
     
  20. TIG_green

    TIG_green Registered

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    fixed the problem by reinstalling the drivers.
     

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